Im making my own weight system

Paste wax works fine as a release agent with glass bedding compounds... I don't know how it works with body filler...

It will take a shock to break these loose... and I would not bother to try if you are happy with the weight...

If one day you want to remove these you may have to drill a small hole down the side of each rod breaking the suction... and use a sliding hammer puller... it is a simple long strong threaded rod and a sliding weight on it hitting a double nut.
 
Lee
If you have a taper on your rods they will come out easier. Small end down, big end up. With a straight surface it is like pressing it through a 6 in. long bushing.

Glenn
 
I don't know about the body putty, but if it was an epoxy like Devcon or JB Weld, you might have some luck putting the stock in a freezer overnight and then pulling the rods with a slide hammer. The metal will shrink more than the epoxy and sometimes give you enough clearance to break it free. (Throw the body putty away)
 
Thanks fellas for the advise. The reason we decided to use the body putty was simple because i thought it would be a lighter weight material compared to epoxy. I am OK with the weights but i cant stop thinking about how i might be able to remove these. I am thinking about (probably wont) going ahead and drilling the brass rods all the way through just to see if it is a suction thing. I am also thinking that for the next go around i wont bother with attaching them to the metal plate. I can bead the rods individually one at a time. I'm not sure how the glass beading will work but i am hoping by doing them this way i can work the rod back and forth up and down while the glass is curing? I am going to do several test runs before i do the next stock, thats for sure!! Again thanks fellas. Lee
 
There needs to be a way for air to get to the end of the rods if the ends are bedded into place, otherwise when you attempt to pull them out, you are pulling against a vacuum and they can't move.
 
There needs to be a way for air to get to the end of the rods if the ends are bedded into place, otherwise when you attempt to pull them out, you are pulling against a vacuum and they can't move.


No matter how high on the rod the epoxy is? Or the higher the epoxy the more vacuum? Lee
 
skeetlee said:
There needs to be a way for air to get to the end of the rods if the ends are bedded into place, otherwise when you attempt to pull them out, you are pulling against a vacuum and they can't move.


No matter how high on the rod the epoxy is? Or the higher the epoxy the more vacuum? Lee
Click to expand...

Lee,

Can you drill a hole along the side of the weight in the epoxy? This might allow weight to move without having to drill the weight itself.

Jim

PS: Try to stay as far from the outer shell of the stock as possible while drilling ;).
 
skeetlee said:
I'm not sure how the glass beading will work but i am hoping by doing them this way i can work the rod back and forth up and down while the glass is curing?e
Click to expand...

No no no no NO!!!

(I'm assuming you mean glass BEDDING, not glass beading.... two completely different concepts, both valid.)

You CANNOT work the piece while it cures...... NOT, my man!!..... not with ANY sort of bedding compound.

And you must do them both together to achieve alignment.

You're asking for advice and then ignoring it, doing it your way.... while this is a good (albeit expensive! :eek:) ) way to learn.... why bother asking in the first place?? ........Yer makin' my gums tired. :)

al
 
Thin Wall PVC

There's the possiblity that you can exopy some thin wall PVC or tubing, that will accept the rods later. Even if the ID is slightly larger. You might even try to wrap the rods with serand wrap ( multible layers ), and the try the expoy route.
 
Al
Im sorry you feel that way but, i did use some of your advise. I did seal the foam up with the liquid epoxy first and i didnt mean to have the compound rise so far up the bars. I wanted a little more coverage than an inch but not quite as much as i got. You were not the only fella giving me advise. I had several Pm's from past experimentors!! I did do my homework and i thought i had a solid plan! I didnt just wing the dam thing! These are my pride and joys of life. These rifles are part of the reason i go to work everyday! I really enjoy this life style and the folks involved. Ill admit that i talk to much but what can i say, i am a happy man, and my life couldnt be better!! I didnt mean to stick the darn things, it just happened! I wont repeat my mistake thats for sure! Actually i dont even feel like i made a mistake. I think the rifle is absolutely perfect! Now on the next stock i need to get it right and i know now what not to do. LOL!! I'm giving this hole thing my best effort, isn't that worth something???? I would assume most folks wouldnt even try to do something like this, but This is just part of the sport for me. Live and learn!!
I got my BRX stock today from stillers and it is a very nice stock but it is a hole different deal. The hole back end of this stock is hollow. There is only room for one rod. I hope i can get the weight i need out of one brass rod 10" long.
While at work today we did a little testing with the body putty in a 4x4 wood block. While the resin was setting up i spun the brass rod and it worked quite well. I also pulled up on the rod while the resin was setting, and i could feel the suction, so you are correct Al, you can not pull up on the rod, but you can spin it. However that isnt going to do much good if everything is placed together and in line properly. It will be a couple weeks before i tackle this next stock as i need to get the action glued in and a HV barrel chambered so i know exactly how much weight i will need.
Also Al, if i bed the only the bottom 1" of the rod how will i customise or make use of the bedding if the weights change over the period of ownership of the rifle. Barrels wear out, and optic upgrades are always a possablity. I was hoping that i could set all this up so that i could change different weights of rods as needed. One rod may be 8" to make weigh and who knows why but at some point i may only need a 6" rod to make the rifle weigh properly. I was hoping i could get some flexability out of this system. The rifle in subject will be used as a LV ppc, and possably a HV ppc. I would also like to have a 30BR barrel chambered for it. So you can see how or why i may need the flexability. I just want to try and cover all angles. As always, i appreciate the conversation. Ans sorry for my typing errors as well as my grammar. You cant be good at everything!! LOL!!!
 
I believe you will find if you move a piece around, spinning it or what ever while the epoxy is curing, you are bound to "wear" through the release agent and end up with a very good bond.

No doubt in my mind it you had a slight taper to the rods it would be very easy to make it work...
 
I can get them out.
Heat will get them loose,but dont melt your stock. LOL!
 
What Alinwa said

He told you exactly what to do, exactly what not to do, and exactly why what happened, happened. You got your ears on. :) The only way you could bed those rods all the way up and still get them out, is for them to have a draft on them (taper). At that, you are still going to have to have a way to break the suction.

Dale
 
Lee,
On the BRX! Why not epoxy one piece of Brass 1” long in the bottom of the hole with a piece of Stainless All Thread, threaded into it. Or just the 1” piece of Brass with a threaded hole in the center. That way you could have different length Brass weights that you could tighten in place with a nut or different length Socket Head Cap Screws. Allowing you to change the weight of your setup. All hidden under your Butt Plate. You could also use a piece of Stainless Tubing with the 1” ID, having a threaded Stainless Insert at the bottom. Epoxy the Stainless Sleeve into the stock permanently into the stock.
Just a thought.
Baron
 
lee,

you ask more questions than anyone i have ever seen just to give yourself the answer. not only on this site but others. you asked people for advice and when it was given you completely disregarded it. there is a reason people grow weary of your posts. i think you can get the rods out with a little thought. next time, take the advice you are give by very competent people, or..............dont ask the question. just my opinion.

chuck
 
come on now chuck! I read some of your post and i dont really think you qualify to give those kinds of statements.(my opinion) I have a good friend that makes custom furniture for a living, and is a benchrest shooter so i also took a little advise from him as well. Were i went wrong was with the amount of material i used. The displacement was a bit more than anticipated. I used the material i could get here locally and without spending 50 bucks. It doesnt matter that they are stuck anyway. I want the weight were it is!!!! I did not discard the info given to me i simply did the best i could with what i had!! Im tickled to death with how it all worked out!! I will do a few things different with the next one and now i know about how much material i will need. actually i am going to place an aluminum sleeve machined with threads on the next one but i will use the same methods to secure the sleeve as i did with this stock. I personally feel like all my efforts were A+++ I learned a little, and my rifle is exactly were i wanted it. It rides the bags very very nice!!!
I do talk to much, but thats simple. I like you folks and i like reading what most of you have to say. This stuff is what i do and what i enjoy and i like talking with you guys about it!! There is a lot of knowledge here and i appreciate that!! Sometimes we as men do things our own way simply because that how we are!!! LOL!! I didnt mean to use so dam much material, but hey its a done deal, and all is good!! Piece! Lee
 
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lee,

if nothing else, i am fully qualified to gauge your competence. peace! (or piece) as you would say.

chuck
 
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