I'd like to get a better set of dies

accuracy

Paul, When I was gonna buy a rifle that shot good I got on this site probably 15 years ago, was gonna buy a savage because Id heard so much about em. A half inch group was what I had in mind. Started talking to this crew and ended up buying a used BR rifle that will shoot .250. You hang around here and your definition of accuracy changes. Ive sure learned alot by getting on here every morning and talking to these guys. Doug
 
On Al's point, in the past when I have been at the range, and someone looked interested in what I was doing, after I had my rifle's load tuned, and had done what I came for, I would ask if he wanted to try shooting my light varmint 6PPC. If he wanted to, I would sit him down, go over how the rest worked, and have him do several dry shots to get used to the high magnification scope, and light trigger. At the same time, I would do a little instruction on what to do with the wind flags, and then I would turn him loose and walk away. This would usually be on a day when the wind was not difficult. Invariably, something like a quarter inch group would result, at which point I would point out that he was a better shot than he had previously thought, and how important equipment and properly tuned loads are to accuracy. Unless you have actually sat down behind a fully tuned, benchrest rifle, shooting over some flags, you really don't know how good you are.

You mentioned pulling shots. With a stock that has a 3" flat on the forend, and a good front rest and bag, and a good bag at the back, that does not roll around, combined with a very light trigger, pulling a shot is much less of an issue. You would really have to work at it to make it happen.

Another thing that is an integral part of this is a bench that does not move as you are shooting. You would be surprised as to how many shooters there are who have never shot from a rest and bench that do not move at all. They tend to think of shooting better as doing a better job of holding the whole bench, rest and rifle steadier as they try to pull a heavy trigger. With a better bench, rest and trigger it is a whole different proposition.
 
i am in no way good enough at reloading to offer advice but i do own a forster micrometer die and can say i am very happy with the ease of operation and end results they are very easy to make adjustments with and stay where you set them i am glad i bought mine
 
A better set of Dies

Go ahead and buy a better set of dies. If you don’t, you’ll always wonder if you missed out on something. It’s Just human nature.

I can’t recommend a brand, because I don’t know if there is a BETTER die for a factory chambered rifle. What I’m saying is, straight ammo may not make that much of a difference in a factory chamber.

I highly recommend that while you’re trying to make a decision on a new die, go to the classified section and order a set of wind Flags. Doesn’t matter which brand.

Or, If you like to tinker, you can make your own wind flags. Something simple and cheap like surveyor tape attached to a straight rod that you can stake or anchor in the ground.

Your problem with an occasional flyer may be explained or corrected by the use of some kind of wind indicator.

I shoot Benchrest for fun. So take my advice for what it’s worth. Having fun is the gateway to a life long addiction to a fun Sport.

I agree with Gene Beggs. You are at the tip of the diving board. "The man behind the trigger" will decide whether to take that leap.

Good Luck in your efforts.



Glenn
 
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You asked about the micrometer setting on the die. If you have calipers, you've already spent that money. Also, believe that you don't need to know that particular measurement but rather how the rifle shoots at the current setting.

Your seating die should not push the bullet using the tip but rather the ogive - which is any degree beyond the tip.
 
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