How do I change the firing pin spring on a Remington 700?

R

rangewarrior

Guest
Hey Guys,

Well this time I will ask prior to monkeying with the bolt.

I bought a Wolff extra power firing pin spring from midway.

http://www.midwayusa.com/viewproduct/?productnumber=174645

The description says the OEM spring is 24# and this is 28#, improving lock time.

What do I need to know about changing this spring? Do I need a heavier pin? Someone suggested that I might pierce primers using the factory pin and heavier spring.

Also, do I need to buy a special tool to remove the spring or is there another way to approach it.
 
Firing Pin Spring

The first thing you will need is a firing pin spring compressor, Sinclair sells a nice one. After you compress the spring so that the cocking piece is sticking out of the shroud, you will notice a small pin. Tap this out, and the entire assy will come apart after you de-compress the spring. To re-assemble, just reverse the proccess.
The Sinclair tool comes with instructions.

I can't see how a heavier spring will pierce primers, the firing pin has a positive stop. Sounds like a old wives tail. I would just stick with the Factory pin if the tip is in good shape.

Keep in mind, the extra spring pressure will increase cocking pressure, so the bolt will be a tad harder to open. Also, what makes you think that there is something wrong with the one in the Rifle now??. You might be in search of a solution to a problem that does not exist........jackie
 
For the trouble you may run into ... having never changed a spring... and having to ask how ... I would suggest letting a gunsmith do it. For him it should be a 5 minute job.

You can get by without a special tool if you have a piece of thin tubing. I use a piece of arrow shaft, 3/4" long, about .340" od, about .300 id.

Unscrew the firing pin assembly from the bolt body, drop this tubing in the bolt body, screw the firing pin assembly back in as far as you can. This will cause the rear of the firing pin to protrude and you will be able to remove the retaining pin. If you can't figure it out from there you shouldn't be doing it. :)
 
However you do it, it would be a good idea to have a new pin on hand, just in case. Sometimes the pin is in very tight and you have to beat it out and you may screw it up in the process.

Do what Dennis says (let somebody else do it).

Also, what Jackie said. After you get the heavy spring installed you may find the bolt lift to be so much heavier that you'll wish you had the old spring back in. A better idea is simply to replace the existing spring with another new one at the same spec. I do this every couple of years with new springs from Kelbly's.

Ray
 
I'm pretty capable with being able to do it... I just haven't taken the assembly apart yet and wanted to know what was involved... my bigger concern was primer piercing
 
rangewarrior said:
I'm pretty capable with being able to do it... I just haven't taken the assembly apart yet and wanted to know what was involved... my bigger concern was primer piercing
Click to expand...

Pierced primers are mostly caused by 3 things;

1) load too hot-obvious solution.

2) firing pin hole in bolt is oversize-send bolt to Greg Tannel or another competent gunsmith who is experienced in bushing firing pin holes..

3) primer cup material too soft. For example on small rifle primers, Rem 6-1/2 are generally the softest, CCI450's generally the toughest.
 
one can do it without a spring compressor but it's alot harder. the best advise i can give you is that after you drive the pin out that holds the firing pin to the cocking piece it wont normally come apart with the spring presser. and you have to persuade it to come apart. be careful not to let the firing pin shoot out and hit you as it will go into you.

Jake
 
I put a stiffer than standard firing pin spring in a Ruger 77 live varmint rifle I've had since '72, and the bolt lift was so stiff I took it out and put the original back in. It never misfired with the original, and the rifle shoots well with it.
 
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