Help... narrowing my search .

S

sparks1

Guest
New guy here. Great forum. I am interested in building a 300yd to 600yd+ rifle for bench shooting and F-class. Currently looking at the 6BR and possibly going to a 6.5x47L future barrel. I need to be steered to narrow my search for the correct components.
1.) Action length & profile. There are so many listed by custom mfg's, I don't know which is which. I want a RB/LP. Thinking integral rail...do I want a weaver or dovetail.
2.) Stock...I like wood, but am not stuck on it if I can get better accuracy from another. How wide fore-arm? How wide rear of stock?
3.) BR or HV trigger? Why?
4.) Barrel...so many> guess I will discuss with my smith.
5.) neck turn or not? Never done this and don't have equipment.
6.) Can I use Redding S type Neck dies and be competitive?

I appreciate your help in focusing my search, so I don't get caught up in information I don't need.

Currently shooting a Savage 10FCP HS in .308 and 6.5 CSS (Grendel).
I also see I need a better rest and rear bag. Caldwell won't do it in this game.
 
sparks1 said:
New guy here. Great forum. I am interested in building a 300yd to 600yd+ rifle for bench shooting and F-class. Currently looking at the 6BR and possibly going to a 6.5x47L future barrel. I need to be steered to narrow my search for the correct components.
1.) Action length & profile. There are so many listed by custom mfg's, I don't know which is which. I want a RB/LP. Thinking integral rail...do I want a weaver or dovetail.
2.) Stock...I like wood, but am not stuck on it if I can get better accuracy from another. How wide fore-arm? How wide rear of stock?
3.) BR or HV trigger? Why?
4.) Barrel...so many> guess I will discuss with my smith.
5.) neck turn or not? Never done this and don't have equipment.
6.) Can I use Redding S type Neck dies and be competitive?

I appreciate your help in focusing my search, so I don't get caught up in information I don't need.

Currently shooting a Savage 10FCP HS in .308 and 6.5 CSS (Grendel).
I also see I need a better rest and rear bag. Caldwell won't do it in this game.
Click to expand...

#1, pick one :) May I suggest an ejector. Drop port will limit you to one cartridge altho 6X47L might be OK with 6BR's, you'd have to check Stiller for this. Some ejectors will ding up your casenecks, this is sick and wrong :eek: , I've got a BAT 'M' that doesn't and Kelbly's offers a wicked cool slide-actuated one........ if you get one that dings your necks you'll be forced to keep a moleskin/rubber/similar pad sticky-taped inside your ejection port. kindofa upkeep issue.

#2, scope out Bill at http://www.scopeusout.com/ for some nice wood options. Lot more work in a wood one. I'll suggest a 3" wide forearm for your first one..... and 16.5 or 17lb so's it makes comp wt. You can always put a plate on it to make it wider.

#3, BR, safety is useless.

#4, pick one.

#5, I'd suggest you start with a no-turn neck and for 6BR I'd personally recommend a .272 or even a .271 if you're careful and accomplished. Next barrel you can decide...... if you want it to be a tight neck then you can use the old no-turn for FF bbl.

#6, Yes, as long as you get the die first and build the gun around it. Fairly common practice.

hth


al
 
al, on the trigger, i would suggest hv without safety and bolt release. brunos has them, but something about the hv being stouter versus the ocasion of a pierced primer. i guess it is built slightly different, would need to call to get actual details.


the 6 or 6.5 x 47, drop port, ummmmmm.....well if a guy groung enough off the bolt release, MAYBE. i was checking this on my vipers, it fits down the hole if you press the bolt release and let it come that extra tenth or so. i don't know if there is enough material there or not, it looked close. close enough it had me thinkin, yet another sleepless night, haha.
tom
 
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Rifle for 300-600 yd.

I know that I am biased, but I would chamber a Bartlein 8 twist barrel for the 6mm Dasher. For an action I would use a model B BAT with right bolt/left port and an ejector. If price were no problem, I would put a 10X-60X March on top. If I were mainly shooting 1000 yards, I would opt for the 6.5 x 47 Lapua round. Good shooting....James Mock
 
Just getting started here guys. I think the 6BR no turn neck is a good idea. When I get more into the long range shooting, I will be around this crowd and will pick up the tricks of the trade as I shoot.
As far as the Redding die...what do you mean get one before and build the gun around it? Would the reamer be matched to the die? I don't get.
 
sparks1 said:
Just getting started here guys. I think the 6BR no turn neck is a good idea. When I get more into the long range shooting, I will be around this crowd and will pick up the tricks of the trade as I shoot.
As far as the Redding die...what do you mean get one before and build the gun around it? Would the reamer be matched to the die? I don't get.
Click to expand...


Yes.

One of the most important and often overlooked links in the accuracy chain is building and maintaining good cases for loading.

THE BEST RIFLE ON EARTH WILL NOT SHOOT WITH POORLY FITTED AMMUNITION!!!!! As proof of this, some years ago Outdoor Life set up a contest where a custom built SG&Y varmint rifle was pitted against various factory rifles head-to-head with factory ammo. And Speedy LOST to a Savage.

Now, there will always be the puling uninformed rednekkid masses who interpret this to mean that Savage is "better" than a custom rifle..... ("why buy a custom when Savage will outshoot the mega-dollar rifles??" :eek::eek::eek::eek: ) ...... but more important is the WHY of it. HOW on earth could a custom rifle lose to a factory Savage???

And the answer lies with the ammunition used........ A Savage rifle can be SET TO FIT THE AMMUNITION whereas for all others the ammo must be made to fit the rifle. Bottom line is, you slop some loosey-goosey fctory ammo in a $5,000.00 bench rest rifle and it'll shoot like dung. and THEN, if you maintain the ammunition by resizing with poorly fitted dies it'll CONTINUE to shoot like dung.... so's you start from scratch building to fit from the sizing die outward.

More common is to have the sizing die built after the fact to fit the fired rounds.... but ain't no rule sayin'!

And it's cheaper this way. Just buy a cheapo sizing die and build to it. The idea that one sizer is somehow "better" than another is pure BS IMO. It's about FIT and little else. I've got dies I've paid in blood for, dies that are so bloody "concentric" that you could drop a black hole through 'em and they wouldn't twitch...... and they work like DUNG because they aren't properly fitted.

that's IN MY OPINION!!! :D:D and anyone wants to change it..... show me with numbers or examples how one die beats out another.

G'luck out there

al
 
THE BEST RIFLE ON EARTH WILL NOT SHOOT WITH POORLY FITTED AMMUNITION!!!!! As proof of this, some years ago Outdoor Life set up a contest where a custom built SG&Y varmint rifle was pitted against various factory rifles head-to-head with factory ammo. And Speedy LOST to a Savage.


Alinwa
I thought you were going to shock us with something unbelievable until I read the part you posted above.No suprise there!
Lynn aka Waterboy
 
Go to a match or two. See who is doing the best. Copy what they are doing. Don't take the I am prepared to do this and that, but not the whole thing approach. Performance is a package deal. Nothing that is done is for window dressing, except fancy stock paint.
 
sparks1 said:
New guy here. Great forum. I am interested in building a 300yd to 600yd+ rifle for bench shooting and F-class.
Click to expand...

Use the search function for specific keywords, or just start reading. This forum and others have thousands of posts just like yours. And thousands of replies. Read 'em. Then read some more. Then go to a match or ten and see what's what. Then flip a coin.

:cool:
 
Your yardage that you are building for has me a little confused? 300 yd. benchrest would use a rifle that in heavy gun, would be 13 lbs or less. In 600 or 1,000yd IBS/NBRSA competition the weight is 17 lbs. or less. For the PA Original 1,000 yds matches its 16.5 lbs. F-class (I don't shoot it) I believe is again different but 17 lbs. would still be legal. Most shooters build for a specific purpose. Yes, some rifles can and will crossover, but generally not the best choice for all. The 300 yd. part is the most confusing? Short range BR and its rules covers 100, 200 and 300 yards. Long range covers both 600 and 1,000 yards. F-class is multi yardages shot from the prone. It might serve you well to sort of decide on a discipline and then build for it. Go to the various discipline matches............you will then be in a better position to know what you want to shoot and they type of rifle best for it.
Richard
 
I AM reading posts here to research this build.. Just trying to narrow the search down to read pertinent information. If I read all, it could be information overload.
In regard to 300yd BR confusion...at my range theyonly shoot out to 200yds. I did not know BR went to 300yds.

Thanks for the replies . I realize there are alot of these type questions, I will disappear now and not bother anyone.>>> especially Bill Ohio
 
Rich De The P.A. Club is the same as IBS And NBRSA 17LB. Only difference we shoot 10 shots. Sparks1 Go to some matchs before you buy something you won't be happy with later. Like BAT'S add says" Buy The Best And Cry Once"!

Joe Salt
 
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