Help for an old Red Ryder #111 Mod 40

2

219don

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Need a disassembly/assembly parts guide for a Daisy Red Ryder #111 Mod 40. There's lots of spring tension but no air (or a BB) comes out the front end. Somethings missing inside, I assume. Should be simple but I don't want to start unscrewing things without a diagram. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks,
Bill B.
 
old vs new

older Daisys [I'm not sure which you have] have leather piston seals and usually need only a few drops of plain oil allowed to 'soak in' for a couple of days.
Newer Daisys have two rubber washer seals. One is crimped [stamped dent in main tube] into the end of the receiver cylinder. The other is on the end of the piston. When you cock the rifle you pull the two seals apart. Older rifles often have decayed seals that have gotten sticky with age or improper lubricants applied. The crimped washer seal will STICK to the piston seal and when the gun is cocked the piston seal pulls the static seal out of it's location. No air is trapped at the shot-both seals are slammed into the end of the cylinder. This is not as damaging as when done in a spring piston PELLET rifle where the components [mainspring] are much more powerful than the mild Daisy springs.
You do need to find out if your rifle has a leather seal. If you oil a rubber sealed rifle [later models] you will speed up the decay of the rubber seals.
I'm guessing you have the later model and will need to reseal the gun. You will need a disassembly tool resembling a two pronged 'fork' to take down the interior components. It can be made pretty easily.
Google search Daisy 'rebuild' or similar topics and you should be able to find the info you need.
 
I picked up a 1970's reissue of the Red Ryder at a junk shop some years back, more as a wall hanger than with any intention of ever shooting it.
This is the version that still used an all steel mechanism , except for a nylon insert in the lever. Mechanically its about the same as the original, though there are detail differences on the outside.

The gun shoots but with very little velocity.

On disassembly I found that the portion of the cylinder where the pston rides is very rough, noticably rougher than the rest of the inner surface, and the piston, which on this particular gun is a single very thick black rubber disk, drags badly.
So far oil has had no effect on freeing up the piston's movement or in cleaning up the cylinder walls.

Next time I take it apart I plan to use some MASS metal polish on the cylinder and piston with hopes it will slick down the cylinder walls.
I plan to replace the old rubber disk as well, probably with stacked leather washers cut from saddle skirt leather and with a cupped surface at the front.

I've found that mainly old BB guns are badly rusted inside due to kids loading them by blowing a mouthfull of BBs into the loading port, the saliva etching the metal. That along with lack of oiling seems to be the most damaging result of misuse.
 
If it has plastic parts for the ft sight it is probably a controlled velocity model daisy lowered the velocity/power of these models to make them safer (avoid lawsuits) sounds like you need a plunger assy you can probably still get it from daisy
 
xringer said:
If it has plastic parts for the ft sight it is probably a controlled velocity model daisy lowered the velocity/power of these models to make them safer (avoid lawsuits) sounds like you need a plunger assy you can probably still get it from daisy
Click to expand...

I'd thought it might be the controled velocity version you mention but my rifle has no plastic parts other than the nylon insert in the lever which I mentioned, it appears to predate the low velocity version.

I had a Rodgers Daisy version of the spring piston pistol that never caught on because of its weak velocity. That particular model failed because it was a redesign of the very efficient .118 caliber original. The piston and cylinder of the gun was adequate for the very light .118 size shot but when the heavier .177 caliber steel shot was standardized the mechanism could not produce respectable velocities.
One day I'd like to find one of those fairly cheap and make a conversion unit for it in 6mm airsoft caliber. The mechanism would be much better suited to the light plastic BB used by airsoft guns.

When I was a kid there was an old rusted up relic of the .118 pistol here that I used as a non functioning toygun.
There were a couple of these for sale on one of the Daisy collectors sites several years back. I came very close to buying one, though the prices were pretty hefty.

I guess we all have a secret yearning for the days of the BB guns.

I have several decent modern BB guns. The best of these is the Crosman/Umarex Walther PPKS all metal blowback semi auto. It has more kick to it than a .22 pocket auto of the same size and would make the perfect trainer for the pocket autos. I keep it in a surplus East German Makarov Holster that is a fair duplicate of a WW2 PPK holster.
 
I had a Model 25 pump as a kid in the 50's as I recall it woud penetrate a steel tin can. I killed unknown numbers of birds etc. I don't think any of Daisy's current BB line would do that. except the multi pump type
 
xringer said:
I had a Model 25 pump as a kid in the 50's as I recall it woud penetrate a steel tin can. I killed unknown numbers of birds etc. I don't think any of Daisy's current BB line would do that. except the multi pump type
Click to expand...

I had one of those as well, it was my favorite.

The most powerful spring piston BB I have used is the Crosman M1 Carbine, very good velocity and very accurate when new.
It was my baby brother's gun. Some years back my older brother found it in his basement and gave it to me. I cleaned and repaired it then after keeping it for awhile I gave it back so he could keep it as a wallhanger.
They should reissue that BB gun.
 
Help with Red Ryder #111 model 40

On my Red Ryder #111 model 40 witch I think was made in 1952 it shoots just fine but when it is cocked the bb will roll out the barrel. Does it need a new shot tube or can it be repaired? Thanks for any help you can give me.
 
Fixes

dana j said:
On my Red Ryder #111 model 40 witch I think was made in 1952 it shoots just fine but when it is cocked the bb will roll out the barrel. Does it need a new shot tube or can it be repaired? Thanks for any help you can give me.
Click to expand...

The spring that retains the BB at the end of the shot tube is either worn, damaged or missing. Remove the shot tube and inspect it. It might just need to be "tweaked".

Loss of power in all the older Daisy air guns is normally caused by one or more of the following problems:

- The end of the air tube on the piston assembly is peened over restricting air flow.
- At the piston end of the air tube the "slot" is plugged or partially plugged.
- The piston chamber seal is worn or missing.
- The piston (rubber version) has reverted (turned gummy) and needs to be replaced.


The air tube problem can be remedied by reaming out the end of the air tube to remove restriction. The air tube slot problem is usually caused by the rubber piston "growing" due to use of the wrong type of oil (in most cases 3-in-1) so opening that back up will restore power. The piston chamber seal is merely a leather (older guns) or rubber disk with a hole in the center. Sometimes you'll find that disk has come loose and it is what is blocking the air tube slot. It can be glued back in place after first cleaning the chamber (gun disassembled) and using a suitable guide (1/8" dowel or some such) to position and center.

Back in the day people would oil the Daisy's by squirting oil down the shot tube. The handy, household 3-1n-1 or sewing machine oil would be a natural choice but that stuff ruined the neoprene piston seals. Nowadays a good choice would be air tool lube or a paraffin-based oil. Remember that slippery is good but film strength is needed for a good seal.

Keep in mind that BB's are .175" and not .177". Some older air rifles (pellet) were designed for .175" lead rounds so .177" pellets shoot at lower velocities. Swaging the pellets to .175 will correct that.

WA
 
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