Harrell's Resizing Die of Redding Body Die?

Hunter

Hunter

Throwin' Up Spray
As mentioned on another thread, I have a factory 6PPC and the neck on fired brass measures .269. I have a standard Redding FL die and a Wilson neck die. IIRC (and if I measured correctly), the Redding die sets the shoulder back .01 and the Wilson die doesn't move the shoulder.

I'm thinking of getting either a Harrell's resizing die or a Redding body die (to use when neck-sized brass creates too much bolt-closing stiffness); I believe there's there's about $50 price difference between the two. Any advice on which to get for my factory gun?
 
I recommend (and use) the Harrell's resizing die. I also recommend you sell the Wilson neck die and the Redding FL die to offset most of the cost of the Harrell's. Why go thru multiple steps when you can do it in one. Bump the shoulder back a thou or thou and a half, full length and neck size in one pull of the handle.

You will need to send 2-3 piece of fired brass to Harrell's so they can send you a semi-custom die just for your rig. Give them a call. Great guys to deal with.
 
You say the redding die moves your shoulder back .010. Is that with it against the sheldholder? Back it off until it sizes around .001, does it work then?

FL size everytime to eliminate something that can bite you. Simplify.

Going from neck sizing to FL/Body die will cause a case capacity change, which will cause a tune change. This a variable you don't need.

Hovis
 
aka Hunter said:
I have a standard Redding FL die and a Wilson neck die. IIRC (and if I measured correctly), the Redding die sets the shoulder back .01
Click to expand...


I'm assuming your setup is that the shellholder makes contact with the die -- which is proper. But .010 shoulder setback is too much. Epoxy about .008 worth of shims to the top of the shellholder. Well, try tf first without epoxy...

Now, you'll have full contact between the shellholder and the die, and have only moved the shoulder back .001 or so.

As critical is how much the die shrinks the base of the case. After it comes out of the die, it should be .001 to .0015 (micrometer, please) less than the fired case.

Just buying sizing dies until one fits is an expensive way to do it. Better to understand how they work first...

And a good reason to get your own chambering reamer. Next barrel you have fitted might have different dimensions, if a different smith does the work...
 
I do what Eddie said.
Thats what I did. Though mine is a BR rifle it has a .269 neck.
They are great people to deal with too.
 
ONE Harrell's die, with a bushing cavity/capability, is all you'll ever need. And the price, includes the shipping and handling.
 
WELL maybe Art.
That is as long as you always use the same reamer, right?
 
One is all you normally need, unless you have multiple 6PPC chambers, each cut with different reamers, a .262" and a .269" for instance. Then you'll need a separate die for each neck chamber size. I try to keep things simple.

I own a reamer for a .262" 6PPC neck and send it to my gunsmith when a new barrel needs to be chambered. A $138 investment for a new reamer from Pacific Tool & Gauge is the way I decided to go ... for me anyway.

I also own one for my 30 BR, and one for my 6MM Beggs. Owning a reamer for each of my rifles ensures that I get the same chamber dimensions from barrel to barrel when a new one is needed.
 
abintx,

I assume you read his post before you gave the Harrell's endorsement?

1. He has a FACTORY 6PPC. Probably a PPC-USA. If he gets another barrel, it will almost certain be a different chamber, and probably NOT a 6PPC-USA.

2. For all he knows, his current problem is only that the Redding die sets the shoulder back too far -- gets the headspace wrong, if you prefer. He could just unscrew the die, or for a perfect fix, he could use shimstock and epoxy (cost about $1.00) to have both the correct headspace and the best possible chance of turning out straight rounds.

Why then, should he spend $60 or so for a Harrell die, when that die will almost certainly not be useful on any further barrels?
 
Yes, I read his post. I would have said just stick with the Full Length die he's currently using since he's only got a factory barrel and set it properly.

However, since he seems set on purchasing either a "Harrell's Resizing Die or a Redding Body Die?" [the Subject of his post ... remember?] the Full Length Harrell's was offered as the better choice of the two that he's asking about. Your suggestion offers merit of its own too. Convince him, not me.
 
After reading Charles' first post above, I posted a question about what material to use for shims and what shape in which they should be cut. (I forgot to ask about how to compensate for the thickness of the epoxy after finding the correct shim thickness.) After thinking about that as a solution I realized I would still have the problems of: (1) the Redding FL die oversizing the neck (at least I assume that would be the situation), and (2) having to deal with the expander ball stretching the cases. So, I deleted that post (as noted above) and ordered a Harrell's die. :)

Edit to address the following quote:

Charles E said:
1. He has a FACTORY 6PPC. Probably a PPC-USA. If he gets another barrel, it will almost certain be a different chamber, and probably NOT a 6PPC-USA.
Click to expand...

If I get another barrel my first inquiry will be to the gun's manufacturer in hopes of keeping the gun "factory."
 
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