Hand Priming Tool vs Bench

[Phil3]

I am new to reloading, and am looking for a priming tool. I have read past posts here, but having no experience with any tool other than the priming function on my Forster Co-Ax press (awkward), I do not know if the hand units are tiresome for my 57 year old hands and 200 rounds at a time. Because of no experience, I have no basis for "feel" or how the units might compare.

For hand units, I was considering RCBS APS, K&M, or Sinclair. For bench unit, the RCBS Bench Automatic (http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/?productNumber=457599).

I prefer high quality tools, providing a level of feel that permits consistency, and do not mind loading one primer at a time, but also do not want something that is tiresome to use.

Suggestions?

- Phil

 

[LHSmith]

I have progressed from a Lee Auto Prime to a K&M tool. While the K&M offers much greater sensitivity, it has the drawback of fumbling with individual primers. I am now considering going with a new tool on the market that is much like a K&M but utilizes Lee priming trays. Go to Saubier.com "New Priming Tool" post for pictures and more info.

 

[Danny Reever]

Went from the RCBS automatic bench tool to hand tools and back again. The RCBS is faster, MUCH easier on the hands, and I can't see a bit of difference from the chronograph or on the target. No more hand tools for me. You'll love the RCBS!

Danny

 

[abintx]

Phil ...

I am new to reloading, and am looking for a priming tool. I do not know if the hand units are tiresome for my 57 year old hands and 200 rounds at a time. Because of no experience, I have no basis for "feel" or how the units might compare. Suggestions? Phil

I have an RCBS hand tool that I took apart and polished [the inside] so that it's now as smoooth as a baby's butt doused in Johnson's Baby Oil. What used to bother my old hands seems to have subsided somewhat.

I also have the Forster CO-AX primer that is very easy on the hands because you push down with the palm of one hand. Both would serve you well, only one needs a little work to make it better. If interested in the Forster go here for great pricing: http://www.gunstop.com/Store/Reloading Accessories/Forster-Products-Inc/FOR11521.

Here's a good source and price for the RCBS tool: http://www.midwayusa.com/viewproduc...ent (Not Presses)-_-PriceCompListing-_-329291.

Hope this helps. Art

 

[Dick Grosbier]

I am now considering going with a new tool on the market that is much like a K&M but utilizes Lee priming trays. Go to Saubier.com "New Priming Tool" post for pictures and more info.

How about a little more information ? I went to Saubier.com and can find nothing about a new priming tool.

Dick

 

[squeakie]

I like others here have gone tru a whole progression of priming tools. I also did a lot of priming with my old Banaza B2. Still does a great job, and is very consistent. Buddies of mine have bought the Forster bench priming tool, and love them. My self I went with a K&M, and see no room for improvment!
gary

 

[Pete Wass]

I have two RCBS Universal Hand Priming Tools I use on a regular basis. The universal has sliding plates, which eliminate specific sized holders, to hold the cases over the hole and a square primer holding tray. It is a piece of cake to turn it upside down over a package of 100 primers and turn it back over. If the primers are inverted just shake it gently and they will flip over easily. This tool has a steel fence that should prevent a primer that inadvertently goes off from setting any of the others off. Personally, I feel life ois too short to handle primers one at a time. The amount of squeeze to seat primers is very managable and easy to get the second hand on if necessary.

I also recently purchased one of the Forester bench tools. I like it but the primer tube is too short for my liking. I would prefer that they held 100 primers each.

 

[virg]

Pete; I agree. I also have the RCBS Universal priming tool and so far it's the best tool I've used. The universal shell holder is very handy and the amount of effort to seat the primer is minimal. Also the square shape of the primer tray makes it easy to rest on the bench and stay in place. I used to use the Lee tool (can't beat the price) but the ones I had lasted only a couple of years before the handles gave up. But as far as seating primers were concerned, they did fine.

virg

 

[JerrySharrett]

Walk around the loading area at a match, you will see more Hornady tools than any other single tool.

 

[Nor Cal Mikie]

I prefer the Lee Auto Prime. You get the "feel" as the primer is seated and it gives you another chance to look at each piece of brass to check for problems. I go through about one a year. The price is right and the extra levers and handles are available for next to nothing. I keep one of each ready for small primers and one for large primers. JMHO, Mike.

 

[Boyd Allen]

One caution about the Lee Auto Prime that bears repeating is that in the instructions, based on testing that they have done, Lee recommends that you only use (It has been a while, so check.) CCI and Winchester primers. This is because when they did a test where a primer was set off in the tool, as if someone had one in cross wise, and additional pressure was applied, causing the primer to explode, other brands caused the magazine to explode.

When I have posted this in the past, various shooters who have been using one of these units with Federal primers have posted that they have used one this way for years and never had a problem, but one fellow was nice enough to share that he had had one blow up, and that it was not a good thing to risk. I believe that this is why the RCBS unit has incorporated a piece that blocks the path to the magazine while a primer is being inserted in a case. I have a Lee unit that I use for everything but my PPC. It has been converted to a one at a time tool, by substituting a part that Lee makes in place of the magazine, and it works just fine. I post this because someone may buy one of these tools, based on what they have read here, and not read the instructions. Eyes are precious and fragile. Wear safety glasses when working with primers. It only takes one accident to make the effort worthwhile.

 

[Dick Grosbier]

When I have posted this in the past, various shooters who have been using one of these units with Federal primers have posted that they have used one this way for years and never had a problem, but one fellow was nice enough to share that he had had one blow up, and that it was not a good thing to risk. .

A close personal friend had a Lee blow up or more correctly ignite several primers and burn his hand badly when using it with Federal primers. I used a Lee with Federals for years with no incident but I will not do it again.

Dick

 

[amamnn]

Several folks at one of the clubs where I belong had a nearly violent disagreement over how well a person could "feel" a primer seat. Perhaps more importantly they disputed the amount of crush beyond seating the primer to the bottom of the pocket was accomplished without a depth gage. To make a long story short--there was a contest of sorts. The "feelers" were routed. I was using the Lee tool at the time. After this happened I bought a K&M seater (the one with the depth gage) and after learning how to use it correctly have seen some slight improvement in my groups. Measuring the depth of my primers below flush with a separate tool revealed that I was all over the place using the Lee and when seating with the K&M, again after learning the correct use of the tool, all my primers were seated exactly as deep as the K&M tool indicated. I do not claim to have all my primers seat exactly the same because of the tool when using Lapua brass--there seems to be some odd problem in the Lapua 6BR brass primer pockets that shows up about 7% of the time, but primers in Norma brass seated with the K&M are easy to crush within .001" every time.

I have plenty of time to handle primers individually--as some folks do not. I looked at the tool mentioned on the 6br site and did not see any depth gage or indicator attached, so I will continue to use my K&M.

 

[Charles E]

Hi amamnn,

I'd like to hijack this tread for a post or two - Ignition has become a bug of mine recently. The notion that groups improve sightly with even primer seating is intriguing.

If you don't mind:

Any thought as to whether they tightened up by reducing vertical, or was it just general tightening?

What action are you using? (Firing pin weight and fall.)

Have you tested the spring preload, & if so, what is it?

Have you checked the firing pin protrusion?

TIA, Charles

 

[wolf gray]

Art & Virg,
I agree with you guys. I have used an RCBS priming tool for 25 years or more and have never had a problem with it. I have the square primer holder for 205M's and use the round holder for my WSR,Rem 7 1/2, CCI, and Wolf SR primers. I like the fact that the rest of the primers are sealed off when you are seating a primer.
Best,
Dan Batko

"Where are we going and why am I in this basket?"

 

[HovisKM]

I used to use Lee and RCBS hand priming tools. Both would fatigue my hand after only about 10 cases (had both of my wrists crushed at one time). Since I bought my Sinclair priming tool, I can prime 100 cases without any fatigue. It's a single loading primer but love it.

Hovis

 

[Pete Wass]

Ignition:

I have not experimented with anything but 30 Cal rifles during the years I have been shooting Benchrest so I don't know if my findings are of any value. A lot has been said in the past about the fire control mechanism of the bolts that use the Remington system so if that is a variable, how does one ever truly know if what they see on paper is caused by primers or a sloppy bolt shroud?

I heard or saw written where someone found two bullets of vertical when using Wolf Primers. I use them and sometimes have them mixed in with the Winchesters I have left ( loaded rounds ) and I have never seen any evidence of vertical caused by primers.

Unless one is shooting in a tunnel, how can one rely on what they see much of the time as a for sure anyway?

 

[amamnn]

At the time I made the change:
1-general---later I cut down my vertical stringing using Rick Graham's uppity flags-- I almost exclusively shoot on a terraced range which has some very interesting wind vortices. I went from an average .3" group at 200 yards to a .25" group at a time when the only change I made was in the priming tools under discussion. I could go back and look at chronograph records too, but all that SD and ES and etc. is just so much eyewash compared to group size. These groups were measured over the course of a year and a little more in all kinds of weather. At the time I had no more money for gadgets, and thought I had the ultimate load for a 6 BR norma 1/14 twist barrel. I did not get any better at shooting--I've always been shaky and half blind which is one reason I buy all these gadgets.
2-Stolle-- I dunno - I bought it used
3-nope
4-yep--it protrudes

Not very scientific, but it convinced me. Speaking of being scientific--perhaps someone will explain to me how "feeling" the primer crush (which is to me saying as much as you have faith that it crushed so and so much) is more accurate than using a tool with which you can actually measure the primer pocket depth, the primer height, and the depth to which you have crushed the primer below the zero point?