Hall action 30BR advise

S

skeetlee

Active member
Fellas
One of my most favorite actions i have ever owned is a hall model S. I have one that i had pillar beaded into a stiller robertson stock. I use this rifle for a 6ppc at the moment, but i am thinking about using it for a 30BR since the action configuration isnt all that fast. The action is right bolt, left port no eject. I feel this set up is a bit slow for 6ppc shooting in st louis. I have seen situations in st louis more than once, were you really need to move and get those shots down range. With my hall action i am just not that fast. I think this action would be ideal for a score rifle though. Anyway my hall action has no recoil lug other than the rear tang. Even the screws on the bottom of this action are small. The action screws are smaller than any other custom action i have had. I just wonder if these small action screws can handle the recoil of the 30BR with the rear tang recoil lug? What do you think? I also wonder if i can open up the diameter of the action screws and use another screw thats a little more robust? Any thoughts? thanks Lee
 
Lee, I know we've talked about this before concerning another Hall you were building. Here's my 2 cents worth, so take it for what it's worth:

- The 10-32 screws have more than enough strength to secure the action. That said, I changed my RFD's 10-32's to 1/4X28's to standardize it. Using 1/4x28's will give you more clamping surface between the screw and the pillar, simply due to the increased diameter of the screw head. To me, the more clamping surface between the action screw and the pillar(s), the better.

- As far as the recoil lug goes, my belief is that if you're using the back end of the tang for the lug, the stock should be reinforced by inletting an alum. rod at an angle down through the grip, profiling the upper edge to match the back of the tang and bedding the back of the tang to that. Depending on the stock, some of them have a reinforcement that runs at an angle down through the grip area. On those, you can inlet a piece of flat aluminum behind the tang but under the stock 'skin' and do the same thing. If you do it this way, make sure only the back of the tang handles the recoil force. If the sides of the rear tang angle toward the rear surface, you can get a wedge effect if they're not relieved sufficiently. This wedging can break the stock....I've seen a few broken due to this. On a bolt in, I only want one recoil lug surface and that's flat-to-flat.

But, there are many guns done w/o any modification at all and the rear tang used as the recoil lug surface with no issues at all.

Chocolate or vanilla, Beatles or Stones, Ginger or Mary Ann......

Personally, I like a lug at the front of the action. My belief is this 'loads' the stock lengthwise where there's a large amount of material behind the lug and should settle the gun in the bags better than a rear lug in recoil, depending on the stock design, of course. I feel strongly enough about this that I've had Stan Ware modify my Panda with a dovetailed .375 thick lug located .020 behind the front face of the reciever and screwed into the reciever body with two countersunk Allen head cap screws. In this picture, the top Panda is a LB/RP reciever with Stan's lug addition that I bedded into a Bruno/McMillan pattern stock for a pal. The center RB/RP Panda with Stan's lug is mine and the bottom reciever is my RB/LP Kodiak for comparison. All bolt ins, obviously.

lugs.jpg


A new Panda that's headed to Stan's for the same treatment:

2011Panda.jpg
 
Thanks Al, I think i will just leave the hall as is and keep shooting it as a 6ppc. Some time back i was wanting to build my daughter a rifle to shoot and i think this Hall will be ideal.
I am planning a couple trips out of state to shoot score this year, and i thought a back up rifle might be a good idea. Realistically, i have never had a rifle go down, as to where a back up rifle was needed. I guess i will just take my chances. I really like Hall actions, and if this action had dual ports it would no question be my primary 6ppc rifle. Shoots great! I know there are several who shoot a right left no ejector, and they shoot them fast. I simply can not. I have tried to throw a loaded case in front of the empty and then drag the empty out, but i foul it up every time. Lee
 
skeetlee said:
Thanks Al, I think i will just leave the hall as is and keep shooting it as a 6ppc. Some time back i was wanting to build my daughter a rifle to shoot and i think this Hall will be ideal.
I am planning a couple trips out of state to shoot score this year, and i thought a back up rifle might be a good idea. Realistically, i have never had a rifle go down, as to where a back up rifle was needed. I guess i will just take my chances. I really like Hall actions, and if this action had dual ports it would no question be my primary 6ppc rifle. Shoots great! I know there are several who shoot a right left no ejector, and they shoot them fast. I simply can not. I have tried to throw a loaded case in front of the empty and then drag the empty out, but i foul it up every time. Lee
Click to expand...

Lee, There are folks out there who convert the Halls to R,L,R and even Drop Port. It is no big deal to put an ejection port in your action, getting the bolt to facilitate it may be another story, I don't know but if I had an action I loved, I would do whatever I had to do to make it work the way I wanted it to work.
 
Bob Dodd has done this to several types of actions. I don't know if he will still do it or not. They are awesome when he is done with them.
Ron
 
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