Glue In Bedding Idea

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crb

Ray Brooks
I am gathering info to do my first glue in. In talking to some guys they said something about using some layers of tape on the bottom of the action when doing the initial bedding job. This is to leave space for a thin consistent layer of glue for the final glueing in of the action.

I have some large dia heatshrink tubing left over from a prior life. It seems like this would be a pretty interesting replacement for the tape. Use enough layers of the heatshrink tubing to give the exact thickness you want for the final glue in. The tubing I have has a very smooth glossy finish which should accept the release compound very well. Also there would be no tape seams, no folded corners, etc. When the initial glue layer sets up you just slit the tubing to remove it and there is no residue left to clean up.

I will have to see how well the heatshink tubing conforms to the corners of the action.

What do you guys think ?
 
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I always remove the skin from the bedding job when I do a glue in mainly to keep from having any residual mold release left on the bedding job. That creates a little room for the epoxy. I press the action into the stock with a large arbor press that I have until the epoxy quits oozing out. Then clean up the excess epoxy everywhere, on the outside of the action, around the trigger hanger area of the action and anywhere else. I'll let the action glue set up overnight without any pressure holding the action to the stock, just gravity. Seems to work alright. I've seen enough bedding jobs have stress in them when holding the action to the stock with surgical tubing that I don't think it's a good idea to hold the action into the stock with any kind of pressure. I can just imagine that an action glued into a stock with stress in the glue job would cause all kinds of problems and would be very difficult to figure out what was happening.
 
The crazy thing is how well the 2 piece metal stocks shoot. Messed up bedding can drive you crazy but you bolt a chuck of alum to the back of the action in place of a conventional stock and the rifle shoots great.
 
I have been involved with Benchrest shooting for about 14 years or so and over that time have seen several glue ins come loose, including one of mine. Generally one chases their tail trying to find out why their rifle has slowly become craised until the eventuality happens.

This raises the question, why do it? From what I have seen, Screwed In rifles shoot every bit as good as Glued In rifles so why not screw them all in? Why not eliminate any possible source of problems?
 
I kinda worry about torquing down on the action screws if you have an alum action. On my metal stock Viper I d&t'ed another action screw just in front of the drop port. It has a lot more thread length than the rear action screw. I am careful when I tighten them. Never had a problem so far.

I also think maybe round bottom actions are better for pillar bedding and flat ones for glue in. Obviously either can be successfully used either pillar or glued.
 
Pete Wass said:
I have been involved with Benchrest shooting for about 14 years or so and over that time have seen several glue ins come loose, including one of mine. Generally one chases their tail trying to find out why their rifle has slowly become craised until the eventuality happens.

This raises the question, why do it? From what I have seen, Screwed In rifles shoot every bit as good as Glued In rifles so why not screw them all in? Why not eliminate any possible source of problems?
Click to expand...

That is why the smart ones glue and screw..............Don
 
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