Glass bedding questions....

V

VaniB

New member
My first question is; which glassing compound will suffice and who sells it? If you can give me a choice of a good working product for $22, or a GREAT working product for $33. As I'm learning, I'd just as soon go with cheaper stuff that still works.

Also; Is there a simple release agent I can buy at Lowes or Home Depot? Dang...I even thought I heard somebody once say to use PAM cooking spray. (?)

Lastly: I'm not sure how I'm supposed to tape off the recoil lug? Or is it a loose fitting paper mask that I'm actually seeing in those videos?....and not tape. Should I mask off just the front of the lug, and leave the back of the lug in direct contact with the glass? I've seen videos that look like the whole lug has adhesive tape wrapped around it like a mummy. I don't get it.....the lug should end up getting locked into the stock like that......no different then if I wrapped my finger in scotch tape, and dipped it into drying epoxy. I hardly think I would be able to slip my finger out later.
 
I use West Systems Epoxy w/colloidal silica as a thickener. I use Johnson's Paste Wax as a release agent. For years I taped around the recoil lug except at the rear because 'they' said that's the only way the rifle will shoot but, then, I found out that Melvin Forbes of NewUltraLite rifles beds his recoil lug tight and his guns shoot. The problem with no clearance on the recoil lug is when you take it in and out of the stock there is some risk of scraping bedding off and some getting under the recoil lug. Then, you have problems.

Here is where I buy my supplies: http://www.gougeon.com/ I also glue my actions in with the same epoxy. One advantage is that you can go to a paint store and get some different color tints and tint the epoxy to whatever color you desire.
 
I use Devcon 10110 and a detergent free 100% Carnuba Wax as the release agent. I also tape the front, sides and bottom of the lug for the reasons Mickey stated. You dont want anything to get under the lug. I've even heard of people using JB Weld as the bedding compound with good results. Use WD40 and Q-Tips for spilage clean up prior to the bedding fully curing. Most Industrial Houses will carry the Devcon. It's about $35.00 and will bed several rifles.
 
Devcon 10110 and neutral shoe polish. The cost of the matls is inconsequential because the devcon will do many rifles UNLESS you do it exactly like the article at 6br.com and waste twice as much as you actually need :rolleyes:

Mickey, I bed the recoil lug with only tape on the bottom. I also break/radius the edges of the lug AFTER I separate the action from the cured bedding. This way there is less likelyhood of the lug scraping off bits of the bedding.
 
I also break/radius the edges of the lug AFTER I separate the action from the cured bedding. This way there is less likelyhood of the lug scraping off bits of the bedding.
Click to expand...

Cale, I think your method has merit. I'm going to give it strong consideration. Many thanks.
 
I've used devcon, marine tex and brownells steel bed, results are the same for all 3, don't let solvents get on marine tex, some will attack it(soften it, sometimes forever), I tape the front, sides and bottom of lug on hunting rifles, I've done a couple with NO tape, thier a pain in the butt to pull and reinstall action but they all shoot really good, for release agent I was using the brownells release agent but lately I just use johnson's paste wax,,,,,,,my one hint,,,,,,,,,, to save time and cleanup hassel, knock the trigger assemble out to bed, waste too much time trying to tape/seal/clean after the job is done,,,,,,,,,,,,

the wind is my friend,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,

DD
 
Paste wax

Paste wax is great. A big old can of Johnsons will last a long time.

I like Brownells Acra Gel. It's always given me good results.

JB is great too for small areas, like 10/22's etc.
 
Thank you gentlemen for the good info. But, I'm still not entirely clear about how you are keeping the lug from getting stuck during the process.

If I understand it, the main concern for accuracy is the back of the lug which needs to rest firm against the hard glassing during recoil ....and the other 4 surfaces of the lug are not as critical (as long as dirt doesn't get lodged below the lug) Do you guys double or tripple the layers of tape on these surfaces, or is one layer of masking tape good enough?

If I spray the taped lug with release agent beforehand, are you saying that the lug with its taped surfaces will not get stuck inside the stock once the glass is allowed to harden around it?
 
I use 2 layers of masking tape (I like 3M blue painters tape) on the sides, bottom and front of the lug. then I paste wax the entire action (including the tape) twice, buffing in between coats. After the epoxy cures, everything will disassemble nicely including the tape.
 
I've always used electrical tape on the front, bottom and sides and apply two layers and then trim with a single edged razor blade. I've got a can of Johnson's Paste Wax that I bought for some other purpose probably 30 years ago and it's still got about a third left after being used for anything and everything in addition to bedding quite a few rifles. Use plenty of wax and then buff lightly.

I find the clean up and removal of wax, putty, etc. the next day to be the biggest pain. It's satisfying though when you hear that crack when you hit that stock the next morning.

Lately I've done several using the Devcon 10110. If you're just doing a simple job the Accraglas kits will work and do a decent job if you take your time and think about what you're doing and follow the instructions closely. You'll still have to buy the tape, q-tips, putty, and whatever else. If you will be doing others in the future it's probably cheaper to just buy a pound of the Devcon or similar compound and go that route.
 
If you're going to use Acraglas.........

use the Gel, not the other stuff, I find it brittle. And if I had to say anything else it'd be: DON'T USE their release agent. I have, in the past, had it take bluing off, twice :eek:!! No, it wasn't in any area where it could be seen, but it did; that's why I went w/the Johnson's wax after that.;)
 
If you like these then use this:

Devcon HVAC
Commercial aerosol mold release agent.

MyPalmariflebedding.jpg


beddingII.jpg
 
Chad

Very nice looking, clean looking bedding jobs.

What is the reason for the relief cut across the screw holes?

Another question, in the first picture there are a series of screw holes up the bottom of the barrel channel, they must hold a hand rail in place, correct?

Hal
 
Beautiful work there Chad. It's obvious that you put a lot of time and finesse into the work.
 
Because of weather and product setting outside in below zero temperatures, I just go to the boat sore and buy Marine Tex. Waiting two weeks for a delivery when you need more is low on my list also. Restriction on shipping, sucks.

When I read about using West Systems, I feel guilty about not using it, as I have 5 gals left over from my last boat build. I guess it's the learning curve that bothers me?

I do find it interesting when you ask the leading stock manufactures what they use to bed, that the most common reply has been Marine Tex. It's seems to be that this is the material (or similar) that makes up the bulk of the stocks?
 
Big Al said:
Because of weather and product setting outside in below zero temperatures, I just go to the boat sore and buy Marine Tex. Waiting two weeks for a delivery when you need more is low on my list also. Restriction on shipping, sucks.

When I read about using West Systems, I feel guilty about not using it, as I have 5 gals left over from my last boat build. I guess it's the learning curve that bothers me?

I do find it interesting when you ask the leading stock manufactures what they use to bed, that the most common reply has been Marine Tex. It's seems to be that this is the material (or similar) that makes up the bulk of the stocks?
Click to expand...
No learning curve. I measure my components by weight. I use a plastic hi-ball cup you can buy at a grocery store, put an empty cup on my Dillon scale and zero it. I then pour about 1100 grains of resin in, make a note of the weight and then re-zero. I then divided the weight by 5.2 to give me the amount of hardener needed. Add the correct amount, tint the mixture w/a dab of paint then begin adding colloidal silica with a tongue depressor and stirring. Colloidal silica is a white powder that weighs almost nothing. You can make the mixture as thick as you need. Then put the epoxy wherever you want. It's the easiest to measure and mix I've found. I've been through several gallons in the past 12 years.

I use the slow hardener to give me more working time.
 
Wow!

NesikaChad said:
If you like these then use this:

Devcon HVAC
Commercial aerosol mold release agent.

MyPalmariflebedding.jpg


beddingII.jpg
Click to expand...



Such beautiful bedding! I've never seen anything so neat and perfect. If I could do that, maybe I would have never developed my Ultralite aluminum stock. :eek: :)

Gene Beggs
 
MColeman said:
No learning curve. I measure my components by weight. I use a plastic hi-ball cup you can buy at a grocery store, put an empty cup on my Dillon scale and zero it. I then pour about 1100 grains of resin in, make a note of the weight and then re-zero. I then divided the weight by 5.2 to give me the amount of hardener needed. Add the correct amount, tint the mixture w/a dab of paint then begin adding colloidal silica with a tongue depressor and stirring. Colloidal silica is a white powder that weighs almost nothing. You can make the mixture as thick as you need. Then put the epoxy wherever you want. It's the easiest to measure and mix I've found. I've been through several gallons in the past 12 years.

I use the slow hardener to give me more working time.
Click to expand...

Thanks Mickey, I've got this crazy scale contraption (cost me 300.00) for doing quantity batches for the boat projects. That was one of my stumbling points. Could not figure how to adjust the ratios (ratio of resin to hardener) down to a small quantity. I kept thinking every time I went to the boat store (for Marine-Tex), Gee this seems dumb to buy more of what I have gallons of setting in the shop. I've got a cardboard box of silica, I only use for certain things doing the boats, I've built.


Now if I can only live long enough to use up the five gallons of resin for bedding project I should be well north of a hundred and forty.:D

Al
 
Gene Beggs said:
Such beautiful bedding! I've never seen anything so neat and perfect. If I could do that, maybe I would have never developed my Ultralite aluminum stock. :eek: :)

Gene Beggs
Click to expand...

I wonder if he ever intends to put a barreled action in them. (??) It would be a shame to cover it up.
 
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