Full length sized brass does not fit

CMaier said:
the brass is sometimes hitting the top of the belt cutout
in the die.
this at a point where the shoulder is set back and fits the chamber.
they have been known to make adjustments to dies to make them work with
your rifle.( it is a redding body die)
so while cutting back the top of the shell holder will set the shoulder back,
some of the belts are hitting the die.
we are talking small numbers.
1-2 thou.
suggestions ??
Click to expand...

I'm sorry, I misunderstood your thrust. I (wrongly) assumed you were feeling that the Redding die was somehow to blame and you needed to "take it up with Redding."

I agree that asking them what they'd charge to modify the die to fit an out-of-spec chamber is reasonable.

I'm a die-fit-freak.......

Belted mags present some problems, it is for this and other reasons that I don't do belted magnums in accuracy platforms.
 
Calling Redding would be a good option IMO. My experience with them in the past has been positive. They may have you send the die back with a few cases and diagnose the problem. All you can do is ask and see what they have to say.
 
i hope to shoot this rifle again sat .
at that time i will be able to measure
the case length at the datum line and know
if the chamber is short at that point.
std head space at the belt appears to be in spec.
have a great thanksgiving!
 
CMaier said:
ok rifle is a interarms mark x 300 win mag, built about 1977.
appears to be shot very little
cz action
new brass fits
once fired brass will not re chamber
fl sized brass will not fit( die turned to the shell holder)
brass sized in steps till touching shell holder does not fit
brass belt sized and then fl sized does not fit
it appears fl sized brass is 4-5 thou longer than new at the shoulder.
dia at the shoulder is right at .489/490.

this is the only "commercial" win mag i have. the other two custom
300 win mags have no issues with brass.

tried 2 different fl dies..
scratching my head
Click to expand...

Does that rifles barrel have a very faint engraving on the top about 8" from chaimber telling of maker
PO Ackley and we're work was done?
I remember a interarms that I had for a while that was a 7mm rem mag that was a Ackley rifle and the chaimber had a radius at the shoulder to neck junction like a Weatherby. It shot great and no problems with brass ,I was using Lee dies at the time. Sorry no help but very curious.
 
sorry but no. nice flat shoulder
see below

cloudrepair said:
Does that rifles barrel have a very faint engraving on the top about 8" from chaimber telling of maker
PO Ackley and we're work was done?
I remember a interarms that I had for a while that was a 7mm rem mag that was a Ackley rifle and the chaimber had a radius at the shoulder to neck junction like a Weatherby. It shot great and no problems with brass ,I was using Lee dies at the time. Sorry no help but very curious.
Click to expand...
 
gentlemen the shoulder length of the chamber is 0.014 TOO SHORT.
the chamber spec is 2.279+0.01, and my fired, deprimed brass is
2.265. ammo spec is 2.270-.0070...so factory ammo just does fit,
maybe some will not.
it still shoots well( 4 shots under 1" including a cold clean bore shot in the group)
but i think i need to fix this.
 
cloudrepair said:
Does that rifles barrel have a very faint engraving on the top about 8" from chaimber telling of maker
PO Ackley and we're work was done?
I remember a interarms that I had for a while that was a 7mm rem mag that was a Ackley rifle and the chaimber had a radius at the shoulder to neck junction like a Weatherby. It shot great and no problems with brass ,I was using Lee dies at the time. Sorry no help but very curious.
Click to expand...

Holey Kowww......you sold a PO Ackley gun?? I hope you got paid well!

But anyways....there were tens of thousands of guns assembled from the Interarms actions, most (all?) of which have the infamous M98 double-shoulder AFAIK, headspaces all over the map is what I've seen. And opinions/arguments long and hard regarding how to bottom out said shoulders! And many a reblue from Parker Hale to MKX, store brands, liddle shops and Ho'Made Herters-based blunderbusses with salts leaching out of the joints for years :) Some you could see light through.....

LOL

Those Golden Oldie-Moldie days of chuck 'er up and get 'er done.....
 
ok guys i will need some advice on how to proceed.
i have access to 2 300 wm reamers, and could just rent a box stock one.
one is the reamer i used for the mk 13 rifle i just built.
it uses near stock numbers but not sure on the throat, as it is set up for
a 220 sie mk at 3.500 COAL.
supposedly this round( mk248 mod1) will chamber is a stock 300
wm rifle. i do not know.
the other has a long throat and tight neck
sounds like basic reamer rental is the way to go.

next is bbl removal. i have no luck removing bbls without marking then,
so i need some ideas/hints on how not to screw up a nice bluing job.

i do not know if anyone makes a shoulder based go gage, so was thinking of sizing
a pc of brass to measure some where in the middle of the spec and use it,

help
 
I haven't been happy with many methods till I made a heavy duty barrel vise. and I found copper sheet works good for holding and protecting barrels and actions. or I cut a strip of Pepsi carton and us that. And for the Mauser I cut a hole the shape of the receiver head in a piece of alluminum bar 1/2 x 2.5 about fifteen inches long that uses the integrated recoil lug. I have a bad signal here so I can't upload pics or I would not sure If this helps but good luck. I've only found the belted gages. Not sure we're your located but I might be able to let you borrow a reamer it just a standard 300 win mag from pt&g
 
alinwa said:
Holey Kowww......you sold a PO Ackley gun?? I hope you got paid well!

But anyways....there were tens of thousands of guns assembled from the Interarms actions, most (all?) of which have the infamous M98 double-shoulder AFAIK, headspaces all over the map is what I've seen. And opinions/arguments long and hard regarding how to bottom out said shoulders! And many a reblue from Parker Hale to MKX, store brands, liddle shops and Ho'Made Herters-based blunderbusses with salts leaching out of the joints for years :) Some you could see light through.....

LOL

Those Golden Oldie-Moldie days of chuck 'er up and get 'er done.....
Click to expand...

Sadly no I didn't get paid good for the Ackley rifle
 
i looked at the drawings of the 2 reamers that are available, and
one of the 2 will work,
largest pc of brass i have is 2.272 and i need closer to 2.279.
think i will fill a case with lead so no compression and use
tape on the base to lengthen it.....
 
Headspace is off the belt. Wouldn't you want to run the reamer in just to the point of touching the bottom of the belt counter bore that is already there? I believe you already determined that the headspace is already correct earlier. Right?
 
correct.
but a shoulder datum gage would allow me "better" control of that cut.
as i said i think i am about .015 short, but that is from brass,
not a hard measurement.
in reality this is a repair to a hunting rifle, not a br or target rifle.
min spec chamber would be great, but below min spec works if only .005
below min( target rifle chamber reamer).
new brass is way short of chamber min spec.
so what i need is a chamber long enough i can size brass for it.
my dies say i can handle .005 below min spec. a shoulder datum gage
would allow me to get between min and min minus .005.
it is a hunting rifle i only have to be in the ball park.
thinking of turning a tool to measure the shoulder length.

Rflshootr said:
Headspace is off the belt. Wouldn't you want to run the reamer in just to the point of touching the bottom of the belt counter bore that is already there? I believe you already determined that the headspace is already correct earlier. Right?
Click to expand...
 
pacific tool and gauge makes a shoulder datum head space gauge.
got one coming
 
the shoulder datum gauge got here today,
and my best measurement said i was .013 short.
i did the reaming by hand with a 300 win mag match
reamer.
done, now to shoot and size some brass and see how it
all works.
 
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