Forming Lapua 220 Russian into 22 PPC USA

It's been 10 years since I've fireformed for my 22PPC. I need a quick refresher course. My previously fired Lapua brass (neck turned) measures .2491 at the neck when loaded. After firing the necks measure .2511.

Could someone please give me the basic steps in fireforming? I THINK the case necks must be turned before fireforming but not exactly sure. Also, I can not remember if I ran the cases through my FL body die first. What I do know is that I can not chamber the new cases in my rifle right now. Either the shoulder is to far forward OR the case necks are too thick.

Also, can I save bullets and wear on my barrell by fireforming with one of the "no bullet" methods?

Any help appreciated.
Mike
 
No bullets,

.........will save little in wear and tear. It is the explosive gasses that really deteriorate the barrel, not so much the bullet! It does save bullet costs! You still need primers and powder! There are some outlets that sell turned and Fire Formed cases; I think I saw that advertised on this site.
 
.........will save little in wear and tear. It is the explosive gasses that really deteriorate the barrel, not so much the bullet! It does save bullet costs! You still need primers and powder! There are some outlets that sell turned and Fire Formed cases; I think I saw that advertised on this site.

Yeah...that site leads to a cruise line site...LOL
 
It's been 10 years since I've fireformed for my 22PPC. I need a quick refresher course. My previously fired Lapua brass (neck turned) measures .2491 at the neck when loaded. After firing the necks measure .2511.

Could someone please give me the basic steps in fireforming? I THINK the case necks must be turned before fireforming but not exactly sure. Also, I can not remember if I ran the cases through my FL body die first. What I do know is that I can not chamber the new cases in my rifle right now. Either the shoulder is to far forward OR the case necks are too thick.

Also, can I save bullets and wear on my barrell by fireforming with one of the "no bullet" methods?

Any help appreciated.
Mike

Well jeepers creepers..... you and only you have the rifle in hand but I'll try :)

FIRST OF ALL, before you do anything else do me two favors:

#1, make up a dummy round by seating you bullet into a new case. Measure the neck over the bullet and post the diameter.

#2, chamber a hunk of your used brass and note where the bolt is just before the handle drops..... now try the unfired case, is it right there like only a thou or two short? Stopping on the shoulder?? Or is it stopping a quarter inch back? (end of the neck)







NOW, if you've a tight neck then the only easy way to turn the neck is before firing. Even if you do neck it down and fire it w/no bullet the neck will be too tight to fit over anything but a custom mandrel, and if you DO try to open up with a sizing mandrel the act of firing will have hardened the neck which will cause inconsistencies IMO. And as has been said, this won't save your barrel.

tater


al
 
OK Al...I made a dummy round

Dummy round loaded with 52 gr. Watson bullet OD=.2522
(Watson bullet measured .2245 at pressure ring)

Once fired (neck turned) case OD neck= .2510 (loaded case neck OD before firing was .2492) this once fired case chambers easily with just some slight resistance.

Do you know how much spring back there is to the brass in the case neck? This would give me my chamber's neck dimension (approximate) would it not? I think my chamber's neck dimension is somewhere just above .2510

The new Lapua case will not allow the bolt handle to move downward at all when trying to chamber it. Like it hits a brick wall. I think the case neck is too thick to enter the chamber.

As stated above, I previously turned the necks to .2492. At that point I think chambering a round to fire form should be possible and I should feel a resistance to the shoulder when I close the bolt on an unfired case.

I hope this makes sense. I'm enjoying trying to relearn this stuff and appreciate your help.
 
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