I have ordered my first 6ppc and this is my first attempt at turning necks. My chamber will be .269 and I will be using the Barts Ultra 68 gr bullet. Lets see if i got this right. Finished round should be .267 minus the bullet .2435 divided by 2 so my cases are turned to .01175. I seated the bullet and its showing .267. My question though is regarding how far into the shoulder i should go. I tried for about a 32nd into it. I have attached a photo and was wondering if that looks about right?? Just slightly into the shoulder, my fingernail just slightly catches where i stopped turning.
First time neck turning
- Thread starter btc624
- Start date
RL Weikart
Member
Neck Turnung
IMOP the clearance of .002 is good. Some folks prefer .0015, now it becomes what ever works best for you. I see that you have one of Stillers neck turners, I to use a Stiller, a good tool. As far as the cutting into the shoulder a 1/32 should work out okay. After the round or rounds have been fire formed a couple of times the little ridge will probably disappear. Again this is my opinion.
IMOP the clearance of .002 is good. Some folks prefer .0015, now it becomes what ever works best for you. I see that you have one of Stillers neck turners, I to use a Stiller, a good tool. As far as the cutting into the shoulder a 1/32 should work out okay. After the round or rounds have been fire formed a couple of times the little ridge will probably disappear. Again this is my opinion.
Dick Grosbier
Club Coordinator
Sure looks like a Pumpkin to me.
Dusty Stevens
Hollow Point Dispenser
Wish mr stiller would make some more but thats a punkin.
I go a little bit more. but, I use a .262 neck. Thickness .0082 or so....That ridge will be gone in short time.
Make a dummy round and make sure it chambers. The first 50 I ever made. Only 10 chambered. Used some scotch brite and spun them to make them fit.
The only thing more boring then turning necks is squirting lead......1/2 with next yrs allotment.....
Make a dummy round and make sure it chambers. The first 50 I ever made. Only 10 chambered. Used some scotch brite and spun them to make them fit.
The only thing more boring then turning necks is squirting lead......1/2 with next yrs allotment.....
A
abintx
Guest
Your first job looks better than "about right". It looks great. How does a dummy round load when seated into the chamber by the bolt?
I like to headspace first, and then trim, so that the distance from the end of the case neck to the shoulder is the same on all cases, before I turn, so that all turning stops at the same place into the shoulder. Otherwise, some will be cut deeper into the shoulder than others.
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C
Carson
Guest
What I try to do is get as far down into the neck as I can without making anywhere on the wall thinner than the rest of the case.
This picture isn't the best example or did I deburr the case very well after I sanded it in half but it should give you an idea. You have to compromise. Any bump you leave is going to be transferred from the outside of the case to the inside once it is fired.
I'm lucky as I have access to grinding equipment to dress my turn tool to match the angle of the case wall I'm trying to cut in to.
Anyway I strive for an even wall.
Turning in to far and making the wall thinner than anywhere on the rest of the case I'm thinking is bad.
Leaving a little hump by falling short and playing it safe would be on the safer side of the equation.
The little hump could work its way to becoming the dreaded doughnut inside I suppose. Then it could end up far enough up the wall you could forget all about it.
I think part of the doughnut thing is if you keep firing a case and jamming the funnel cone shape of the front of the case it's sort of going to want to doughnut because it is the natural place for the brass to flow.
btc624,
See if you can find a belt sander or a file and cut one of your cases like I did. It kind of looks to me like your in a little deep. If I was able to dress your cutter I would match the shoulder angle on the leading edge. Since yours has sort of a right angle look to it from here I think I would be stopping a little shorter.
This picture isn't the best example or did I deburr the case very well after I sanded it in half but it should give you an idea. You have to compromise. Any bump you leave is going to be transferred from the outside of the case to the inside once it is fired.
I'm lucky as I have access to grinding equipment to dress my turn tool to match the angle of the case wall I'm trying to cut in to.
Anyway I strive for an even wall.
Turning in to far and making the wall thinner than anywhere on the rest of the case I'm thinking is bad.
Leaving a little hump by falling short and playing it safe would be on the safer side of the equation.
The little hump could work its way to becoming the dreaded doughnut inside I suppose. Then it could end up far enough up the wall you could forget all about it.
I think part of the doughnut thing is if you keep firing a case and jamming the funnel cone shape of the front of the case it's sort of going to want to doughnut because it is the natural place for the brass to flow.
btc624,
See if you can find a belt sander or a file and cut one of your cases like I did. It kind of looks to me like your in a little deep. If I was able to dress your cutter I would match the shoulder angle on the leading edge. Since yours has sort of a right angle look to it from here I think I would be stopping a little shorter.
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C
Carson
Guest
Maybe drawings will help.
Personally I think the worst thing to happen is to turn in to far and make a thin spot in the wall like the picture below.
I would try to error on caution and stop short.
Ideally I'm thinking the tool profile works best if it is ground to nearly match the profile of the case wall.
Even then I would be watching like a hawk I didn't dig in to far and might leave it a little short in the name of safety.
Personally I think the worst thing to happen is to turn in to far and make a thin spot in the wall like the picture below.
I would try to error on caution and stop short.
Ideally I'm thinking the tool profile works best if it is ground to nearly match the profile of the case wall.
Even then I would be watching like a hawk I didn't dig in to far and might leave it a little short in the name of safety.
David Halblom
Flying Fish Fundamentals
Carson, you have
David
shown graphically (very well I might add) what most of us have been saying for years. Nice job. Also, the profile you showed at the leading edge of the cutter in the second set is exactly why I have always used Sinclair cutters. That is the way they come ground. Nice job!Maybe drawings will help.
Personally I think the worst thing to happen is to turn in to far and make a thin spot in the wall like the picture below.
I would try to error on caution and stop short.
Ideally I'm thinking the tool profile works best if it is ground to nearly match the profile of the case wall.
Even then I would be watching like a hawk I didn't dig in to far and might leave it a little short in the name of safety.
David
C
Carson
Guest
Thanks.
I tried and tried to draw it out on my computer. I finally was beaten to the point I gave up and went to bed. That's when it came to me to just draw it out and take a picture.
Wow lots of good information on here. I think I'll use a Dremel tool and cut my case open to see where I'm at. I can't really try it in my gun as I won't receive it till late spring. I just figured to try a few and see how it goes. I did use some 0000 steel wool which made it nice and smooth.? I really appreciate all the replies and the willingness to help those of us just entering the sport .
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Concur with David. Nice job on the drawings.
Same thing Lowell Hottenstein and Steve Theye instructed me several yrs ago. A whole lot easier to imagine these things. 3D style. But, seeing a drawing....
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Wilbur.
To a normal person. Not a problem.
To a normal BR shooter. It has to be all the same.
I can not count how many times, I have told someone, to not worry about it.
I was told not to worry about it.
I listen to GREY BEARDS. It's saved my life a few times. And those of my team.
Hence the mention of Lowell and Steve. They both believe 20 pcs. of brass 2 Tournaments. Jack Same same......all good.
To a normal person. Not a problem.
To a normal BR shooter. It has to be all the same.
I can not count how many times, I have told someone, to not worry about it.
I was told not to worry about it.
I listen to GREY BEARDS. It's saved my life a few times. And those of my team.
Hence the mention of Lowell and Steve. They both believe 20 pcs. of brass 2 Tournaments. Jack Same same......all good.
C
Carson
Guest
Inexperience maybe? Perfectionism?
I think the reason I turn up close on 6PPC is variation in the wall kind of bugs me. Besides I haven't really calculated out just where the point I stop turning ends up in the case after it is fire-formed. But your right. Where ever it is the bullet base never would get down there near where ever it ends up.
On my 300 Weatherby I'm thinking the bullets do get all the way down passed and into the case. Well some of them I think. It's been a while. The bad thing I'm thinking that happened on me with the 300WM was that I just barely skim the case neck. In fact, I'm sort of remembering, some of the walls varied so much one side would barely clean up and the other side would be where all the meat would come off. Even though I went to great pains trying to match up close to the shoulder when the cases would fire all of a sudden the neck would blast out inside the chamber neck and center itself that first firing. The neck inside case would get the dreaded doughnut because of the shift. Well I guess it would be more of a dreaded offset doughnut. I think I saw a reamer in my tool box that I skimmed them out with years ago.
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