Factory Rifle work

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bbradford

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I am about to buy a factory rifle and know that I need to have some work done if I want the performance out of it that I desire for longe range accracy. What are the top five things that I must have done?

I am looking to purchase a savage 300 WSM...

Thanks
 
Get a good scope, load some good ammo with good bullets, buy a good rest, spotting scope.
 
Factory Rifles

Check the bedding, make sure it is sound and stable. A good bedding job will enhance any Rifle's capability.
As has been stated, find a good load it likes, (good components area good start), get the proper bench equipment, and practice.
Regardless of what you are shooting, if you want to realize your Rifle's full accuracy potential, you must have something, as in windflags, to help you with the conditions. It is almost comical to read some of the "glossy cover magazine" test about the accuracy of a certain combination, with no windflags in site. Heck, even a stick with a ribbon will help you see reversals.
Good Luck........jackie
 
Your typical "accurizing" job will consist of the following:
1. Glass bedding
2. Trigger work
3. Recrown
4. Scope mount alignment (lapping, reaming, or bedding).
5. Load developement. Obviously, not a rifle mod but a very important part of the equation.
Although I'm not a fan of the WSM's, I have to admit that all I've built have shot very well.
Other mods which can be beneficial if correctly done but detrimental if done improperly are lapping of the barrel and of the locking lugs. At this point, a number of people will be scrambling for their keyboards to warn that lapping of a finished barrel will ruin it. This may indeed be so if they do it but I've never had a problem with it. A barrel with tight spots or excessive roughness will always work better when these deficiencies are corrected. If the barrel is already smooth and consistent in size it is, of course, better to leave it alone.
Lapping of the lugs is beneficial if one lug is not touching at all but, as long as contact is 50% or better, you likely wouldn't see any difference in performance. Regards, Bill
 
I agree with all above, but I would work up a load and see where you are before lugging it to a shop and spending money.

I've handled quite a few Savages in the past year or so, and I've been impressed with some of the heavy barreled models, out of the box.

I worked on a 308 heavy 12 in my shop recently, and it had a tupperware stock. But, I was amazed how well it shot.

I took the plastic stock off, and put it in an F-class laminated stock, and noticed that the plastic stock had some machined pillars. It was really well fixed. I won't get into details, but i have to admit it was difficult to get bedded as well.

This rifle shoots hole on hole, with no machine work.
 
Thanks for your suggestions and input. One quick question for Mr. Hooper, I am looking to replace the factory stock with an aftermarket one, what is a good website to buy a quality synthetic stock that will not break the bank?

Thanks in Advance
 
bbradford said:
Thanks for your suggestions and input. One quick question for Mr. Hooper, I am looking to replace the factory stock with an aftermarket one, what is a good website to buy a quality synthetic stock that will not break the bank?

Thanks in Advance
Click to expand...

There are some OK "drop in" stocks made by Bell and carlson, with a machined bedding block. (I can imagine some people cringing reading this)

http://www.lockstock.com/prodinfo.asp?number=BEL2999


The boyds laminated stocks require some skill to pillar and epoxy bed. I love the feel of some of the Boyds stocks, but I find they do not track good for me without serious mods.

I believe a stock is a very important link in the accuracy chain. I would consider spending the $, get a hold of Bruno's shooter supply and get a McMillan A2, F class or something that will track well for you.

Richards Microfit Gunstocks, I fitted one of their stocks recently, and it was a big job, but it came out nice.

They deliver them very rough, and prepare to do some major sanding, but I like how their F-class stock tracks.

I know you planned on a savage, and that is a good choice, in my opinion, if you plan on just shooting it, but your question now sounds like you want to start modifying it.

For custom work, consider a Remington 700 barreled action, or just the action and have it barreled, for availability of stocks, triggers etc.
 
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Thanks everyone, I am not one that can do any work on a rifle, I am looking to purchase the rifle I want and then purchase an aftermarket stock that meets my taste. After which I will take them both to a highly respected gun smith here in Houston and pay him to do the swap. I hope that this will not turn out to be a very costly endevar.
 
May I suggest that you NOT lap the lugs on a Savage? The Savage design includes a pivoting bolt head and IMO a rifle needs to be fired a few hundred times anyway before it's really settled in. DO keep your lugs greased though!

al
 
Thanks, I am not really shure what the lugs are, will they come greased from the factory or is something that I will need to do myself?
 
I was just now going through the website for Savage Arms and they have a package special, Model 16FHSS, that looks like a great product. I am also very interested in their Model 12FVSS which seems like a very simular product. I did notice that the Model 16FHSS comes with a heavy fluted barrel, what is the added bennefit of these features in comparison the the Model 16FHSS that does not have these features? There is about a $100 difference in price.

Thanks
 
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bbradford said:
I was just now going through the website for Savage Arms and they have a package special, Model 16FHSS, that looks like a great product. I am also very interested in their Model 12FVSS which seems like a very simular product. I did notice that the Model 16FHSS comes with a heavy fluted barrel, what is the added bennefit of these features in comparison the the Model 16FHSS that does not have these features? There is about a $100 difference in price.

Thanks
Click to expand...

The fluted barrel looks sexy.
 
bbradford,

The lugs to which I'm referring are large rectangular abutments on the front of the rifle bolt. The lugs take all of the load when the round is fired. Occasional shooters and beginners are seldom taught to keep them well greased. When firing a rifle repeatedly as in target shooting it's important to keep the lugs greased. I recommend never going more than 20rds between greasings.


al
 
I would suggest a 12 series in 223 (or 308 if you insist) with one of the laminate stocks. The 300wsm is not for long range unless you are a very experienced shooter, its for knock down power and has a whack of recoil which is much harder to shoot accurately. The 223 will kill paper at 1000 yards just as dead as the 300 wsm. The 16 series has a light barrel btw.
 
I can't quite agree with PEI Rob that "The 223 will kill paper at 1000 yards just as dead as the 300 wsm." All else being equal the 300WSM is a very effective 1000yd round where the .223 is marginal at best........ BUT.........Rob's right that the WSM is a whacker. A .223 can be easily managed in a light rifle whereas a 1000yd WSM rifle will probably weigh 25-65lb in 1000yd configuration.


I'd consider a well built .223 to be effective to 600yds for paper, not GREAT but usable.

I fully agree with Rob that a 300WSM is 'way too large a kicker to be usable in a light target rifle. "Light Gun" class for 600/1000yd work is 17lb max and I wouldn't dream of shooting a 300WSM in that weight class. SOoooooo, I'm really AGREEING with PEI Rob in a roundabout way. Unless you're going to customize your rig for target shooting, unless you're going to add so much weight that you will NEVER carry the rifle around, a .223 will be a much more enjoyable ride.

For varminting the 300WSM with 110-125gr bullets is a hoot but it ain't good for much over 400yds because the light bullets get blown all over by the wind.

My own advice for an all around Savage would be a .243/308/30-06, later you can order and screw on a 6MM BR barrel and have a really effective 100-1000yd rifle. You CANNOT do this with the .223 or the 300WSM.


hth


al
 
alinwa said:
I can't quite agree with PEI Rob that "The 223 will kill paper at 1000 yards just as dead as the 300 wsm." All else being equal the 300WSM is a very effective 1000yd round where the .223 is marginal at best........ BUT.........Rob's right that the WSM is a whacker. A .223 can be easily managed in a light rifle whereas a 1000yd WSM rifle will probably weigh 25-65lb in 1000yd configuration.


I'd consider a well built .223 to be effective to 600yds for paper, not GREAT but usable.

I fully agree with Rob that a 300WSM is 'way too large a kicker to be usable in a light target rifle. "Light Gun" class for 600/1000yd work is 17lb max and I wouldn't dream of shooting a 300WSM in that weight class. SOoooooo, I'm really AGREEING with PEI Rob in a roundabout way. Unless you're going to customize your rig for target shooting, unless you're going to add so much weight that you will NEVER carry the rifle around, a .223 will be a much more enjoyable ride.

For varminting the 300WSM with 110-125gr bullets is a hoot but it ain't good for much over 400yds because the light bullets get blown all over by the wind.

My own advice for an all around Savage would be a .243/308/30-06, later you can order and screw on a 6MM BR barrel and have a really effective 100-1000yd rifle. You CANNOT do this with the .223 or the 300WSM.


hth


al
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Really good advice!
 
I started to suggest a 243 but changed to 223 because I failed to notice the 243 can be had with a laminate stock from factory. The plain jane 243 win is great for 1000, in fact it is essentially the same as the 300wsm. My 16ish pound 300wsm is work to shoot because I am forced to hold it and that takes serious concentration on my part to do it well, no brake allowed.

You can change out the bolt head, mag box and follower on the 223 and wsm to fit the 243, 6mmBR, 308 etc. If you got the Savage 12 Varmiter low profile in 243, 12 F class in 6mm Norma BR or 6.5x284 you wouldn't need to change anything.
 
Thanks everyone, but remember, I am not looking to punch paper. This is going to be a rifle for use in the field, I am looking to pluck off hogs at ranges of 500-800 yards.
 
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