Don't you need a 60x scope at 1000yds???

T

tvtv

Guest
I'm a professional photographer so I've been looking through glass since I was 10. I've only been shooting for two years now but have learned what it would have taken 20 years to learn thanks to forums like this.

As you all know start-up costs are significant in this sport/hobby so I've tried many MANY lower priced scopes and settled on a few. I was trying to find a high power fixed scope because there's much less glass in a non-zoom lens. In my biz fixed lenses are called "prime" lenses and are almost always sharper than zoom lenses.

Anyway, the longest I shoot is 200 yds. and my Tasco something to 40x is just ok. The magnification even at 40x just gives me a big enough picture but the clarity sucks. SO I AM TOTALLY AT A LOSS when I read experienced shooters can use a 24x scope for 600 yds. At 1000 yds the target must look like a life saver if that big. What am I missing here? I would think at 1000 yds a 60x scope would be a minimum?
 
tvtv,

What you're missing is that the 1000yd targets are larger :) They're mfg such that they can even be engaged even with the naked eye. 24X or even 10x is enough to establish a precise aiming point. You might want to get creative about where you hold (like touching the crosshairs to the edge and bottom or top, or setting the aiming circle on the horizontal crosshair and bisecting it vertically) but the target itself is made in such a way that SEEING it isn't a problem.

What taxman is so succinctly not explaining is that as magnification is increased the "looking through a swimming pool" effect of mirage is also increased...... a variation of the old optical laws of everything being a tradeoff, and diminishing return.

al
 
what power would you guys recommend for "benchrest" at 200 yds? I added the quotes because I'm shooting a Savage LRPV in 223.
 
I am currently using 45X for both 200yd and 600yd and will use it for 1000 when opportunity arises.

al
 
Think of it like this. If shooting a photo of a reasonably distant subject, which would you prefer?

Canon EF 135mm f/2.0 L
Canon EF 75-300mm f/4-5.6

If you answered 75-300, you've never used both these lenses. :)
 
tvtv said:
what power would you guys recommend for "benchrest" at 200 yds? I added the quotes because I'm shooting a Savage LRPV in 223.
Click to expand...

I use Varget with excellent results in my .223. What are you using for brass, primers, and bullets?

By the way, I use a 6.5-20 X 50mm for 600/1000 yd. BR.
 
I use a couple 6x24x42 Sightrons. I would like to move up to a 8x32 Sightron or 12x42 Nightforce but I have managed a couple 1000 wins with the lower powered scopes and the NF is plenty pricey too. If you can afford it get the 10x60 March. I got to look through a couple last year and they are sweet.

James
 
I recently picked up a 45X Comp Leupold with the brackney mounts, put on my Panda in 6ppc.

Yesterday at 200 yards the mirage was so heavy, I could not focus and see my practice targets to save my life. Every once in awhile the mirage would clear to get a poor picture at best. The best I could do was about two inches strung horizontally with about 1/4" vertical between the 5 shots. The wind was stout 11 to 5, blowing at about 15 mph with irregularity.

The ppc will shoot in the twos on a regular basis at 100 yards.

Even my 8.5 X 25 X 50 Leupold on my 243 improved was pathetic. My best group was 1.5" with 3 in one hole, yanked one and the wind blew the other. Again difficult even at 8.5X to clearly see the target.

My conclusion bigger is not always better, but it can be aggravating at best.

This was my worst shooting day to date, I have seen worse mirage looking through surveying equipment, but that was trying to pick up a target at 3 miles.

I will try to explain myself better in the future;)

I am still learning myself.

Thanks,
T
 
scope type

I am currently using nightfoce 12-42 NP2DD at 1000 yd usealy turned down to 28-30X
The same for 600 yd on 6BR of which I also use at 1000 yd
I use March 50x on one 6PPC at 100-200, 36X weaver on another
I use Leupold 8-25 on my 30br
Kinda all over the spectrem, through a lot of scopes tried it was finding one with good optics (clairity)
As stated before March's are sweet, and I dearly love using my nightforce's.
 
tvtv said:
Anyway, the longest I shoot is 200 yds. and my Tasco something to 40x is just ok. The magnification even at 40x just gives me a big enough picture but the clarity sucks. SO I AM TOTALLY AT A LOSS when I read experienced shooters can use a 24x scope for 600 yds. At 1000 yds the target must look like a life saver if that big. What am I missing here? I would think at 1000 yds a 60x scope would be a minimum?
Click to expand...


honestly a 40x tasco is sorta like a kodak brownie when comapared to QUALITY br scopes. a weaver 36 x is about min for the sport, and most short range is done with luepolds and a few weavers...mainly fix power 36 thru 45.
the march is a new scope dedicated to br shooting's requirement of no movement internally during shooting( poi..point of aim does not change).

mike in co
( three lue 36x's for 100/200,and a 8.5-25 for 600/1k)
 
I would not use a fixed power scope for long range competition. Once the temps are over 90, the humidity over 80%, and the mirage running hard something like a fixed power 45X would pretty much be useless at 1,000 (especially if you were to be shooting off of your belly).

Say what you like about "prime" camera lenses, seems to me most SLR camera of either film or digital persuasion have the advantage of quick change bayonet mount lenses which make changing optics to suit conditions a snap.

That baynet quick change is not an option in long range shooting which is why a quality variable is nice to have.

A Sightron is a decent scope for the money if you like the available recticules, a Leupold (getting pricier all the time without the improvement to match the price increases) is perhaps a better option, and the Nightforce BRs probably the best affordable scope (affordable is a relative term) and have a wide range of recticules available (another nice touch). And yes the NFs are expensive, but things go rapidly up in price from there in a area of rapidly diminishing returns (as with any high end limited production item, the cost is usually justified and unavoidable).

Seriously, get yourself a decent quality variable. Buy the most quality you can up front. Buy decent quality and you won't feel like you need to be buying another scope in the immediate future.

Finally, make a match before you decide. Everyone will be more than willing to show off all of their equipment and explain why theirs is better than anyone elses so you'll get to look at pretty much everything that would be considered suitable.
 
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