This ^^^^^.
I've redone a couple that did this. Once they moved initially, they were stable after rebedding.
You mentioned it's a Savage action. Is the rear tang in contact with the stock? -Al
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Do fiberglass stocks warp?
- Thread starter sgt_jamez
- Start date
This ^^^^^.
I've redone a couple that did this. Once they moved initially, they were stable after rebedding.
You mentioned it's a Savage action. Is the rear tang in contact with the stock? -Al
The tang was floated before all this started. I was sure of that. I'll have to recheck it.
I guess at this point, my question is if it's worth it to try to fix it? If it's warped, wont it track poorly in the bags? And how do I get the action and pillars in straight it it's warped?
Noob questions for sure. Also is there a best way to remove pillars?
I guess at this point, my question is if it's worth it to try to fix it? If it's warped, wont it track poorly in the bags? And how do I get the action and pillars in straight it it's warped?
Noob questions for sure. Also is there a best way to remove pillars?
On the bolt getting stiff when the action screw is torqued you might need to shorten the action screw just a little bit as there will probably be a difference between stocks and screw is protruding through and making contact with the bolt lugs when closed. Color the lugs with a sharpie marker and see if you get contact.
It will probably just need a small amount filed or ground off.
I just noticed you said rear screw so it would not touching bolt lugs....not sure if the rear bolt could contact the bolt body I'd have to dig out a rifle and look.
It will probably just need a small amount filed or ground off.
I just noticed you said rear screw so it would not touching bolt lugs....not sure if the rear bolt could contact the bolt body I'd have to dig out a rifle and look.
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Barrel Torque the likely issue.
Since you have likely eliminated the lug alignment issue I suspect that re-torquing the barrel after removal is the issue.
I had a similar problem with a Remington 700 Varmint barrel I removed to thread for a suppressor. I had previously pillar bedded it in Devcon steel. Since Remington's epoxy and barrel installing Gorilla applies far more torque than I do, the barrel was misaligned upon initial re-installation. Actually the lug was misaligned also but I covered that issue by torquing the barrel while the action and lug were in the stock like a glue in. The lug is probably touching on one side now but it doesn't seem to be a issue.
However, I was able to get adequate but not perfect barrel alignment for my upcoming PD shoot by simply adjusting the barrel torque to compensate for a crooked barrel and/or un-square receiver face and factory threads.
The 700 .223 was still 1/2 MOA capable, as before, when all was done.
The Savage barrel nut (maybe stacking issues) and an un-square receiver face on your rifle may also contribute to the misalignment issue when re-torquing the barrel. Headspace could even come into play if it wasn't identical to previously set with the Savage nut. It appears that all could be contributors.
There is none forward of the lug, but it is tight on the sides. I am going to clear the bedding on the sides and see what that does.
-Ok, I just ground out the bedding on the sides of the lug with no change. I'm at a loss. I'm not sure what else I could do. Even without the receiver contacting the bedding, the barrel sits offset. I'm about to give up on this stock. Grrrr....
Since you have likely eliminated the lug alignment issue I suspect that re-torquing the barrel after removal is the issue.
I had a similar problem with a Remington 700 Varmint barrel I removed to thread for a suppressor. I had previously pillar bedded it in Devcon steel. Since Remington's epoxy and barrel installing Gorilla applies far more torque than I do, the barrel was misaligned upon initial re-installation. Actually the lug was misaligned also but I covered that issue by torquing the barrel while the action and lug were in the stock like a glue in. The lug is probably touching on one side now but it doesn't seem to be a issue.
However, I was able to get adequate but not perfect barrel alignment for my upcoming PD shoot by simply adjusting the barrel torque to compensate for a crooked barrel and/or un-square receiver face and factory threads.
The 700 .223 was still 1/2 MOA capable, as before, when all was done.
The Savage barrel nut (maybe stacking issues) and an un-square receiver face on your rifle may also contribute to the misalignment issue when re-torquing the barrel. Headspace could even come into play if it wasn't identical to previously set with the Savage nut. It appears that all could be contributors.
I'm gonna' take this a whole nuther way.
I don't believe fiberglass stocks warp as per the op, they don't wander.
IMO the problem _must_ originate in the bedding, not "moving" but original bedding job.
My guess is that whoever bedded this rifle used the action screws to hold it together while the epoxy set.
I would take it out, rough up the bedding job and reset it using proper inletting/bedding screws.
PROPERLY bedded a setup won't move as the torque changes.
There is much literature as to how to check this.....
As per "proper torque??" pfaww.....
If torque changes poi, it's buggered
FUBAR'd
opinionby
al
I don't believe fiberglass stocks warp as per the op, they don't wander.
IMO the problem _must_ originate in the bedding, not "moving" but original bedding job.
My guess is that whoever bedded this rifle used the action screws to hold it together while the epoxy set.
I would take it out, rough up the bedding job and reset it using proper inletting/bedding screws.
PROPERLY bedded a setup won't move as the torque changes.
There is much literature as to how to check this.....
As per "proper torque??" pfaww.....
If torque changes poi, it's buggered
FUBAR'd
opinionby
al