Die Set Advise

K

kdvarmint

Guest
Got back from the gunsmith and the new build is under way. 6 norma br. Thinking I'm gonna go with Redding Type S Match Bushing 2-Die set. Full length sizing and no turn necks. First time for bushing dies. Any advise or opinions welcome.
 
I would probably send the first 3 fired cases to Lynwood Harrell and get the bushing die from him. Next would be a Wilson seater die, with a micrometer top if you want to go all out. But hey, that's just me.

Rick
 
Last edited:
Two dies are all you need. Although I prefer a Harrell's F/L die and a Wilson Seater die with the micrometer top, Redding Type S will do fine. Buy carbide bushing to save having to lube necks. Here's a source:

Bud Mundy, Director
NBRSA, Mississippi Valley Region
5956 Old Hickory Trail
Hillsboro, MO 63050-3251
Home: 636-797-5786
Cell: 641-425-3397
 
You will want a set of Redding competition shell holders or a set of shims so you only bump the shoulder and size the body minimally. You may find that your first guess at a bushing is not correct. I am probably going to order one .001 larger than what my first measurements indicated. There seems to be a large consensus in favor of Lapua brass. I am happy with it. I also use a Wilson seater with a Harrels arbor press and am happy with those also.
 
I do like the looks and reviews of the Wilson seater die. And if I'm right a Harrell's F/L sizer die will run around $75. Are many others here using this combination? Looks like this might be cheaper than the Redding Competition set after buying shell holder set and bushings. Keep input coming! Thanks.

Also, will definitly be using Lapua Brass.
And, how long does it take to get a die from Harrell's once he has recieved the brass?
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Use of competition shell holders or shims is not dependent on the brand of die you use. They are useful for hunting ammo too, and what you use for 6mm BR you can use for .308, .243 etc. You want your sizing die to make solid contact with the shellholder (or shim) for consistent results. These things allow you to size the neck and body minimally. If you have a minimally sized chamber and a die that is matched to it, then maybe you don't need them. You said your chamber will be "no turn" but you didn't say if the rest of it was SAAMI-spec. If it is, you may need something to control the amount of sizing and shoulder setback. If it is a very tight chamber, the commercial size die may not bump the shoulder or size the body enough, even with the standard shell holder. You may want to consider having your gunsmith make a custom die using the same reamer as for your barrel. Not wanting to complicate your life or discourage you, but I would say that you might not want to make any decision on dies without first consulting with your gunsmith about these matters. Also, get some sort of headspace measuring tool like a Hornady L&L and see what sort of expansion you get on your fired cases (and check the body with a micrometer also). Then decide what you need for a size die body-wise. For the neck bushing, load a few dummy rounds using your chosen bullet. Measure the necks with a bullet seated, and then order the bushing that will size them a couple of thousandths under. Since you have to take brass spring-back into account, you may need to try several bushings to get the right neck tension. Hold off on that expensive carbide bushing until you get the size right.
 
I see your point on getting more use from the Redding Shell Holder set as I've already considered that a plus for my other rifles I currently load for. As for chamber size, my gunsmith said the reamer he is using is intended for the use of Lapua brass. This is my first custom build, so it's all pretty new to me. That's why I'm posting here. I'm in no hurry and not settled on anything yet. Please complicate my life, I will sort it out by asking and working with my gunsmith. My gunsmith is young and fairly new. Neither of us is too proud to learn new things. I've been serious about loading for 5 years now and have been shooting benchrest factory class for the last 2. I've come a long way since I started, and know there is plenty to be learned. Keep the info coming!
 
kdvarmint said:
I do like the looks and reviews of the Wilson seater die. And if I'm right a Harrell's F/L sizer die will run around $75. Are many others here using this combination? YES. Many.

Looks like this might be cheaper than the Redding Competition set after buying shell holder set and bushings. Don't forget the cost of an Arbor press for seating bullets, and you'll need bushings for the Harrell's die too.

Also, will definitely be using Lapua Brass. Good choice.

And, how long does it take to get a die from Harrell's once he has received the brass? A few days as I recall. Give them a call.
Click to expand...

What's your application for the 6BR? Have you been shooting groups or score in the BR factory class? What yardage? Tight neck, no-turn chamber? How much room is your gunsmith giving you? Everyone once in a blue moon, Lapua brass neck thickness can change. Doesn't mean you can't neck turn slightly if needed.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
abintx said:
What's your application for the 6BR? Have you been shooting groups or score in the BR factory class? Score.

What yardage? 200, 300, and 500 yds
.
Tight neck, no-turn chamber? No Turn. How tight, don"t know.

How much room is your gunsmith giving you? Don't know.

Everyone once in a blue moon, Lapua brass neck thickness can change. Doesn't mean you can't neck turn slightly if needed. Got that.

Like I posted. New to custom. Learning as I go.
Click to expand...
 
In the OP's original post he stated it was a no-turn neck. What he should find out what size. Can run from .270-.272.
 
abintx said:
Why the 6BR versus the preferred 30BR for Score: http://www.accurateshooter.com/cartridge-guides/30br/ ? Part of the learning process? Not that you can't re-chamber a barrel for the 30BR since you're using the parent case to start with. Just curious. Learning as you go can be very expensive.
Click to expand...

Actually rechambering a barrel from 6BR to 30BR is kinda tricky.

One thing about the Harrels die's they are not designed at all for touching base of die to case holder, you will be pushing case shoulder back too far if you go that route. Shoulder should not be pushed back more than 1 or 2 thousandth's.

The 30 BR is an outstanding chambering you might want to consider for your next build. I am assuming you are already committed to the 6BR at this point. A 30BR barrel should be interchangeable with a 6BR barrel on most rifles. And a set of dies can be just as inexpensive as a 6BR if you go the Wilson/Harrels route.
 
Last edited:
How's the recoil compare, 30br verses 6br? I don't see any big complements over 300 yds. 500 is where I've won my matches. This gun will not be strictly benchrest also. Working my way out to 1,000yds on woodchucks, tight groups do matter. May also shoot 850,900,950, and 1000yd silhouette. 6 Norma Br is settled for me. Sure getting away from a die discussion. Also, I'm a learn by doing person, and that's the way it is.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
kdvarmint said:
How's the recoil compare, 30br verses 6br?
Click to expand...
Recoil on a 30BR is a lot more, you are after all launching a bullet roughly twice as heavy down range.
in a 13.5 lb rifle I find it mild but in a 10.5 lb rifle it is a bit stiff. However the guys in Hunter class who shoot 125-150 grain bullets in a larger case in 10 lb rifles will say you are a wuss if 30BR recoil bothers you.

Dick
 
Dick Grosbier said:
Actually rechambering a barrel from 6BR to 30BR is kinda tricky.
Click to expand...

It gets especially tricky, when trying to force a .308" bullet down a .243" diameter barrel. :D

As an aside, I'm going to convert my Light Varmint 10.5 lb 6PPC to a 30BR by having my gunsmith chamber up a Krieger light varmint .308 barrel for the 30BR. After I screw it on the 7.5B B.A.T. action, which identical in every way to my Heavy Varmint 30BR, I'll pull the bolt from the 30BR and use that, so I don't have to open up the 6PPC's bolt face. If I want to go back to the 6PPC, I'll screw the 6PPC barrel back on and use its original bolt.

The folks at B.A.T. say that since I purchased both 7.5B actions at about the same time, there will be no problems whatsoever. Both cases are trimmed to the same length of 1.500" and both the left and right ports are identical in size. Why all this? So I can shoot the 30BR in both score and group matches and get away from the idiosyncrasies of N-133 and on to the benefits of H-4198 and preloading too.
 
abintx said:
The folks at B.A.T. say that since I purchased both 7.5B actions at about the same time, there will be no problems whatsoever.
Click to expand...

I think you are right on about your situation working. Especially since whoever chambers the barrel would, I imagine, be headspacing the barrel with the correct bolt. I have owned 4 Bat actions built over a time period of 6 or 7 years and they all headspaced the same. The oldest had a bolt that was a thousandth or two shorter in the bolt face to barrel dimension, but if a barrel had been chambered with that bolt there would be no problem.
 
Recoil on a 30BR is a lot more, you are after all launching a bullet roughly twice as heavy down range.

Dick[/QUOTE]

Exactly. Been shooting a 308, and that's a lot of wack when trying to stay focused on target after the shot. Not saying 30 br compares to 308, but I know the difference between 30cal and 6mm bullet weight.
 
Dick Grosbier said:
I think you are right on about your situation working. Especially since whoever chambers the barrel would, I imagine, be headspacing the barrel with the correct bolt. I have owned 4 Bat actions built over a time period of 6 or 7 years and they all headspaced the same. The oldest had a bolt that was a thousandth or two shorter in the bolt face to barrel dimension, but if a barrel had been chambered with that bolt there would be no problem.
Click to expand...

Sorry. I forgot to mention, Billy Stevens built both my rifles: http://www.stevensaccuracy.com/html/benchrest.html and does all my gunsmithing.
 
I agree that a 30BR when used for score, such as VFS, say 100 and 200 yards is a great gun. I just got a used Borden 30BR and love it. But from what I have seen those 115 and 120 grain bullets seem to get blown around a lot more that the 6MM 65-68 grain bullets, especially at longer ranges. Since it was stated that this rifle is suppose to also be used at long range varmint hunting I would stay with the 6BR. In fact you might want to consider going to a 1-8 twist so you can shoot up to 105 grain bullets.

Ed
 
1 in 8" it is indeed! Getting back to the original post, I would love to hear what all you guys are using, and appriciate the input so far. As far as a load, to start I have a bunch of fed 210m primers, 16 pounds of varget, and a hundred or so 105 a-maxs, you know, just laying around.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top