Cost of Guns Screws..

R

Rustystud

New member
I get constant complaints from customers about the cost of screws. Yes, the little metal ones. I go throught a quantity of guns screws and search for the best prices. I order 6-40, 6-48, 8-32, 8-40, 10-32, 1/4-20, 1/4-28, 1/4-32, in varried head types and lengths in quantities of a 100 in both grade 8 and Stainless. I often buy longer screws and custom cut them to a desired length. Customers don't realize the time it takes to chamfer and clean up the threads. It is no wonder Remington, Savage, and others are charging $7.00 to $15.00 per screw.

I have to custom order most of my screws because the fastener houses don't stock them and charge even more to have them custom made for you.

Does anyone have any suggestions where to get Guns screws for less. Don't try to say get them from Brownells, MidwayUSA, Forester, as they are all higher than where i am getting them now.

Nat Lambeth
 
Nat, I hope someone can help because I find myself in the same boat with 6-48 socket-head capscrews. The front pillar of the Ultralite stock replaces the existing front trigger hanger screw and must be somewhat longer. The Stiller and many other actions use 6-32 or 8-32 screws but the ever popular Panda requires 6-48. :rolleyes:

Of course, my answer to the problem is to redrill and tap the existing holes to 8-32 but some are unwilling to make ANY modifications to an action. Where can I get some 6-48 screws 5/8 to 3/4 length? Brownell's has some Redfield screws that are 9/16 length which I guess I could use but would prefer a little longer.

Thanks

Gene Beggs
 
I say we all pool our money and hire a job shop. A swiss screw machine is a sight to behold.

I used to work next to a place that made screws for orthopedic hardware and they'd sit and churn that stuff out by the bucket.

Lots of broken arms out there I guess. . .

With the way things are now in manufacturing, I can't imagine this costing a fortune to do. Especially if we all ordered a couple thousand of the buggers a piece.

It's no different in RC planes (my other vice) I go to the hobby shop for some small hardware items and I spend over two bucks for six screws. I go online and I can buy a hundred of the same screws for six dollars.

So, I feel your pain!!
 
I think that Rustystud should share his current source with us. The little yellow envelopes from Brownells are a pain and lower cost would be welcome.

Jay, Idaho
 
I use a variety of generic SS 10-24 socket head screws on my alum stocks. I got tired of paying .45 to .75 cents each down at the Ace Hdwe so I ordered 100 ct boxes from MSC now that I have my design pretty much set.

I would think that for Gene's use the 8-32 or 10-32 sizes would be fine. I am NOT an engineer but I though that you wanted to use coarser threads in alum versus steel. That is why I am using the 10-24.

I also cut a lot of screws. I hate a long all thread fastener. I guess I took Carroll Smith to heart back in the day.
 
Maybe I'm just lazy but I find the kits from brownells very convenient, I know when to refill and have the part number right there (I'm talking scope screws nothing bigger than 8-40). If cost is that big of an issue just make it up somewhere else. If people are really complaining about the cost of screws are they really a customer you should be doing business with?
 
Guys

Years ago I could buy screws in bulk from B-Square. I bought two sizes of 6-48's and one size 8-40's 500 each. I still have a drawer full.

Call them and see what they can do. 800-433-2909

I make 1/4 -28's out of flat head socket head screws.

Dave
 
6-48 screws

Gene:

Forester makes a kit with 23 dozen 6-48 screws in different lengths and head configurations. You can order them in bags of 10 or boxes of 100. MIDWAYUSA had the Forester kit on sale last week for $39.00. That was less expensive than either Forester or Brownells sells the same kit for.

I spoke with Ken Farrell and he buys his 6-48 screws 100,000 at a time and he said he got the price down to about ten cents each. He gave me the name of a fasteners house in New Jersey he used. I called them about ordering some 6-48 screws and they were going to call me back with a price. They have never returned my call. MSC will special order anout any screw that can be made. The more one buys the price goes down exponentially.

The same goes for springs. I order springs made by Southern Spring and stamping. You order a dozen and they cost $3.00 each. You order a 1000 and they cost .32 each.

MidwayUSA, Brownells, and the scope, rings and bases makers order them by the thousands. They also order from over seas. There is a great amount of difference (quality)in American or European made grade 8 or alloy screws and those made in asia.

This is where metric screws do shine there are two basic pitches not dozens like found in the standard gauge system.
Nat
 
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crb said:
I guess I took Carroll Smith to heart back in the day.
Click to expand...

I've referred to Carroll Smith's book a lot. I can turn my head and see it on the book shelf right over there. Good stuff. That and Machinery's Handbook are the two best sources I've found.

Fitch
 
Thanks for the info guys. While we are on the subject of screws, would someone enlighten me on a good way of cutting them to length.

I use a lot of 1/4 x 20, 1/4 x 28, 10 x 32, 8 x 32, 6 x 32 and often need to cut them to a specific length. For example, the 1/4 x 28 screw that secures the buttstock to the action on my stocks must be right on 2.100, which gives me .250 of good threads. Less and you run the risk of stripping, more and you run into the bottom of the blind hole.

TIA

Gene Beggs
 
Gene,

I recall reading about tapping a 1/8" or 3/16" plate with the usual small screw sizes you use. In operation you run a screw thru, cutting it a tad longer than length & finishing it by grinding level with the plate. Can't remember if they suggested hardening the plate or not.

I also recall somebody using some sort of hinge, so you could just drop the screw in the right hole & then fold the hinge over to clamp the head down. It seemed a bit agriucultural to me.

I clamp the waste end of the screw in a vice, hacksaw it a thread or two long, then chuck it in my cordless drill by the head. I run about a 30 degree taper on them until the threads are cut just back of the length I want on my linishing belt, then square them up to leave just a whisker of taper to lead the screw in. If it only needs taking off a thread or two I go straight to the belt.

John
 
Cutting screws.

Gene:

I use several methods:

Large screws I cut in the bandsaw then grind them flat and chamfer them. The run them back through a die to clean them up.

Small screws I drill and tap a piece of .5" X 4." X .125" flat stock. If the screws are long enough I run a nut down as far as needed. Then screw the screw into the threaded stock. I them tighten up the nut against the stock(jam nut). I grind the screw to desired length on a grinding wheel. I then back them out of the stock and chamfer them and run them back into a die to clean up the first threads.

It is difficult to cut screws in the lathe. I have ground them to precise length in the surface grinder.

I also cut grade 8 screws with a cut off blade in the surface grinder.

If you don't have a surface grinder you can do it with a dremel tool and a cut off wheel.

Good luck
Nat
 
Gene

On 1/4-28 screws I run a rethreading die on, insert an allen wrench and rotate/cut them off on a 6" grinder that has an abrasive cut off wheel on one side and a wire wheel on the other. Cut, grind flat, chamfer on the cutoff wheel then debur on the wire wheel, then run the rethreading die off just to make sure there's no burrs.

On 6-48 and 8-40's I use a little gizmo I got from Brownells. Two pieces of spring stock riveted together on one end. Each with a hole that fits each screw size. They line up so you can use an allen or torx head wrench to spin them when you use the cut off wheel. The screws are captured between the spring stock so the don't go flying off into the great unknown.

I'll never be without a 6" grinder set up this way. Way to inexpensive a setup and something that gets used almost daily around here.

Dave
 
John Kielly said:
Gene,
I also recall somebody using some sort of hinge, so you could just drop the screw in the right hole & then fold the hinge over to clamp the head down. It seemed a bit agriucultural to me.
John
Click to expand...

I think that Brownells sells one of the "hinge" holding devices that you menion. I made a few from 1" wide spring steel. Just drilled a series of small holes in one of the blades and a hole at the end of both blades. A "pop rivet" holds them together and is the hinge pivot.
Works great for cutting small screws to length If done on a belt sander with a fine grit belt, the burr is usually so insignificant that I ignore it. Or I place it on the end of a hex or Torx® wrench and lightly chamfer the end on a fine belt of grinding wheel. This can be scarey if you are new to this type of handwork.
Another holding method that I use is a General Tool 1/4" drill chuck that is on a black handle, about $10, IIRC.
Bigger screws usually go through a tapped hole in a piece of hex and is held in the 3-jaw in the lathe.
Lots of ways to get the job done.

Jay, Idaho
 
It's called a "Screw Holder Gizzie"!!!!!

They also sell hand chucks and pin vises for this..... all good items to have IMO, saves the fingers for more important stuff, like pulling the trigger..


LOL


al
 
Thanks for the good feedback guys. It's always interesting to learn how others approach everyday tasks such as this.

Later,

Gene Beggs
 
I've got a 6" bench grinder setup the same as Dave Tooley. I use 1/32 thick resonoid bond cut-off wheels on one side, with a modified tool rest. The tool rest has a slot that was cut with the cut-off blade. Very good support and safer, I think.
This is very handy for cutting off small diameter drill rod, brazing rod, square stock, etc., I've even cut off pieces of small diameter wood dowels with it.
MSC has the 6" diameter thin cutoff wheels.

Jay, Idaho

Edited: 1/32 was 3/32, now changed.
 
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Another good way to trim up scope base screws is to tap a scrap piece of steel. At work, I have a peice about .080" thick, 5/8 wide, and 6" long. One end has a 6-48 hole, and the other end has a 8-40 hole. Screw it in the hole until the desired length that you want to grind off is sticking out. Hold the back side with a screw driver, and grind down to the holder. Most of the time, the burr is so minimal it needs no attention. It also knocks the burr off as it is unscrewed from the piece. The wider piece of steel works good to rest on the tool rest. When you grind it down to one thread thick, cut it off, and put a new hole in it. I have even ground plug screws down to a couple threads this way.

Just don't use your finger or thumb on the head. It leaves a nice screw head burn real fast. :eek:

Denny
 
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