Core squirt die - squirt holes position
- Thread starter OliveOil
- Start date
OliveOil
Active member
Growler,
Please note I never squirt a core for the moment, I am at the beginning of my bullet making project. Anyway, I did some homework in digging BRC as deep as I could. Here below is what I gathered. Comments in French are my own mind so, considering my HUGE non-experience in bullet making, it's probably better just to ignore them.
All below is copy/paste/extract of nearly a hundred of posts from approx 10 threads from BRC and Accurate.
Once again, thanks to all the Gentlemen who shared are are still sharing their (sometimes hardly) acquired knowledge. May they walk on rose petals for the next thousand years.
==================================
Plomb, core
Bigger dedicated swaging presses can use a hardness up to about 8 or 10.
uniform core weight= uniform core seating. Uniform core seating = uniform points.
Some bullet makers use only pure lead wire in making cores, others use a lead/antimony alloy which is harder and stronger. Pure lead cores are easier to squirt and seat from the standpoint of effort on the press handle but pure lead tends to stick to the core seating punch.
Some leads naturally oxidize more than others (origin) but like as Gene mentioned many now are using Sb to harden and this alloy oxidizes very little. The primary reason antimony is added to lead? To reduce the friction and decrease wear in the die.
Some leads naturally oxidize more than others (origin) but like as Gene mentioned many now are using Sb to harden and this alloy oxidizes very little.
Seater un noyau plomb oxydé ruinerait l'adhérence core/jacket
Antimony gives better flow characteristics in pressure extrusions. Alors est-ce que ça fait un noyau mieux formé?
I stopped using antimony lead 7 years ago because of the inconsistent mixing. I was getting large hardness deviations and went back to pure lead with excellent results.
I don't boil my lead (This causes lead hardening with an inconsistent BHN
Proper degreasing of cores before seating.
Why is it so important to thoroughly degrease cores before seating? Because the slightest trace of lube reduces friction between the jacket and core increasing the likelihood of core stripping.
There are many solvents that can be used to degrease cores , but the most effective agent I have found is Trichlorethane, which is a hazardous material and must be used with caution. It's hard to find and I don't use it since Dow Chemical introduced their NuTri which seems to work just as well but is safer. NuTri is expensive but well worth it and evaporates quickly especially if you heat the cores with a heat gun. It removes all traces of oil, grease and other contaminants and leaves no residue. One should keep three containers of solvent and rotate them so the last bath is always pure and clean. The first bath removes most of the lube and will quickly turn dark. The second bath removes virtually all contamination and the third bath insures that the cores are squeaky clean.
I etched the cores with a gallon of water and about 2 tablespoons of white vinegar. Soak them for about 5 minutes and then rinse in fresh running water for another 5 minutes to stop the etching process.
Many bullet makers use some type of etching on the cores before seating, others boil them in some type of detergent or phosphate. At this time, I feel the best method is to simply insure the jackets and cores are squeaky clean by washing them in a triple bath of NuTri or Trichlorethane, but I'm always looking for ways to improve on this.
I then spread the cores out on a towel (which of course dampens the towel) and cover them with another damp towel. I peek at them once in a while, and when the grey color is just right I remove the top towel and let them dry. LUI LAISSERAIT OXYDATION DÉVELOPPÉÉ PAR VOIE ACQUEUSE/HUMIDE
double pumping cores. I have been doing this for 10 years now at my mentors recommendation. Takes a small amount of extra time but the second pump blows off the tailings and gives a core that is plus or minus a tenth for as long as you want to pull the handle.
The second swage seems to get a more compressed core with much finer surface texture.
Anyway it does produce a tighter weight tolerance SURTOUT MOINS DE VARIATION VOLUME CORE DONT ++ DE RÉGULARITÉ AU SEATING
and then etching with dishwasher detergent. Efficacité etching discutée I'm not 100 percent sure that the etching really offer any benefits, as the cores are worked alot during the core seat process.
I cut my wire into 17" lengths. When cut, this gives 28 useable cores for the 117's with minimal waste on each end of the 'stick'. I figure each stick equals 25 cores, so it's easy to figure how many sticks are needed to made a certain number of cores. The extra 3 per stick I consider freebies. After squirting 1,000 cores, I end up with about 115-120 freebies that I dump off into another container for use later.
I use Pure lead without the antimony. I feel i get a better core and that's the recomended Material that Bahlers book wrote about . New clean lead uniform in diameter with out any oxidation.
I cut my cores about 3 grn heavier
SUR DU 6 47 GN: I only allow 1/ 10 grain difference in my core
yes you can store cut cores for an extended length of time i would lube before storing and use some sort of closed jar. on 66-68 gr. ogives all work fine as long as everything is in the center. george
AlNyhus:
al nyhus :
Joe, I squirt my cores using Marvel Mystery Oil as a lube. To remove the lube, the cores go into J4 jacket buckets with some camp stove fuel (white gas), get swished around good and then air dried to get rid of the solvent stink.
To boil them, Simple Green concentrate mixed with water per the labels 'heavy cleaning' directions does a nice job in a 5 minute boil. Others I know use Spic 'N Span and Oxy Clean powder with good results. Not a lot of science here....just a good cleaning to get the remaining solvent and grease off. Simple Green is good because it doesn't stink up the house and it's biodegradable.
After coming out of the boil, they get rinsed off with hot running tap water in a colander, spread out on a old towel and patted dry. Then, they get spread on a dry paper towel for a day. Within a few hours, they'll take on a dull gray look. I don't like my cores heavily etched...just cleaned with a smooth surface. Then they get packed into plastic tubs and labeled with weight, antimony info, etc. and stored until used. A small dessicant pack gets tossed into the storage tubs as well. If I'm not going to use them for a few months, the lube stays on.
Keeping cores made up is a double edged deal. It's the suckiest (if that's not a real word, it should be ) part of bullet making. It's nice to take your beating once, make up t-h-o-u-s-a-n-d-s at a time and get the misery over with. I'd rather put my digits in a vise and start tightening it, than make cores......
At the same time, jacket weights can vary enough that if you're stuck on a particular 'number' for your bullets to weigh, you can be in for a surprise. Since I'm a little guy bullet maker, I keep ahead by having my cut cores done to work with the high and low side of jacket weights. That way, the worst that happens is I have a bit of extra 'squirt off' if the jackets are heavy. But at least half the agony is over and all I need to do is run 'em through the squirt die.
The cores must be thoroughly degreased before jacket seating. I use Coleman camp fuel to do this and with good results. 1,000 cores are placed in a mason jar and filled with the solvent. After 2 minutes of gently rolling by hand, the wash is drained through the punctured lid. FAUT SURTOUT PAS LES ESQUINTER À CET INSTANT.
IL UTILISE GENRE GROS BOCAL DE CONSERVE AVEC UN COUVERCLE PERCÉ DEPUIS L'INTÉRIEUR POUR PAS RAYER LES CORES PAS BON POUR LE RINÇAGE , ÇA MACÈRE
After this is done three times the cores are placed in a strainer. Clean Coleman is poured over them for their final rinse.
DONC LUI EN FAIT N'UTILISE QUE 2 BAINS. C'EST MAL. PLUSIEURS FOIS (3) DANS LE MÊME BAIN C'EST 2 POUR DU BEURRE PUISQUE LA CONCENTRATION DE POLLUANT NE BAISSE PAS DANS LES BAINS SUCCESSIFS ET IL REPREND LA CONTAMINATION DU BAIN 1. MIEUX VAUT PRÉVOIR 3 SEAUX.
SÉCHAGE À L'AIR - IL UTILISE LÀ DES BARQUETTES DE CUISSON JETABLES EN ALUMINIUM POUR 1000 CORES DE 44 GRAINS EN 6
Nyhus:
With a 1% mix, I get less lead buildup on the leading edge of the core seating punches than with the .5%. The core seated jackets eject cleaner and the jacket shortening when seating cores is more consistent with the harder core material.
Step 4 - Core Swaging
Before you swage cores they must be lubricated. There’s no one way to do this. A lot of guys use anhydrous lanolin mixed with Vaseline, neatsfoot oil, or castor oil. This is lightly applied to the walls of a glass jar and tumbled for 5 minutes. I went petroleum based and chose Marvel Mystery oil. Automatic transmission fluid works equally well. The carrier is acetone and the cores are simply dunked into the mix.
One gallon of acetone is poured into a 5 gallon bucket.A second 1 gallon bucket is drilled dozens of times. Make sure the holes are less than the diameter of the core. I went with 11/64”.(il fait du 6)
6 ounces of Marvel Mystery Oil is added to the acetone and stirred. Il mt ses lugs dans le petit seau percé et plonge agite replonge plusieurs fois dans le MMOil dilué acétone. Cores are then laid out to dry. The acetone evaporates in 10 – 15 minutes.
Il utilise des petits plateaux en inox, c'est sympa.
The best way to achieve consistency is to run the ram into the die, hold for 2 seconds, lower it, and repress and hold for another 2 seconds. You want to apply the same amount of pressure and dwell time core to core. L'IDÉE EST BONNE MAIS TECHNIQUEMENT C'EST N'IMPORTE QUOI, FAUT UNE BUTÉE ET RESTER SUR LA BUTÉE ET IDEM PARTOUT POUR ARRIVER À LA STABILITÉ AU FLUAGE. ÇA DOIT PAS PRENDRE DES HEURES MAIS PEUT-ÊTRE BIEN 3-4 SECONDES POUR ARRIVER À UNE VARIATION AU FLUAGE QUASI NULLE. Gare à l'élongation/raccourcissement des bielles DONC À LA POSITION DE LA BUTÉE.
2,000 swaged cores. It took about 9 hours to run these, and that includes cutting time. Sur la photo ils sont en 2 lots, donc il a travaillé 9 h total moins 2h de coupe =7h =>3h30 de swaging pour 1000 cores. Gare à la fatigue.
Step 5 - Core Degreasing
Some take this a step further and etch the cores. This roughens the surface a bit and in theory gives better jacket adhesion. After talking to a few folks, including Ulrich, I’m not convinced this does anything to improve accuracy. George recommended I just degrease them and move right to seating. Maybe in time I’ll etch and see if it makes a difference on paper. The steps involved go as follows:
Get a colander and some tri-sodium phosphate (TSP). Put the colander in a large metal pot and pour the cores into it. Make sure the colander has feet that raise it an inch or so off the bottom of the pot. Add a half gallon of water and one tablespoon of TSP and place it on a stove. Bring the water to a boil and allow it to cook for ten minutes. Then rinse them in a strainer with hot running water. When dry they’ll be dull in color and look frosted.
LUI ETCHE LES CORES. LES AVIS SONT PARTAGÉS. LUI CRÉE DU RELIEF POUR UN GENRE DE SERTISSAGE LORSQU'IL VA MONTER LE CORE DANS LA JACKET. IL FAIT DU RELIEF MAIS DIMINUE LA SURFACE DE CONTACT. DANS UNE OPTIQUE DE MÛRISSEMENT (SEMAINES) DES CORES FRAÎCHEMENT MONTÉS, JE PRÉFÈRE LISSE POUR ALLER SUR DE LA COROSION SOUS CONTRAINTE ET DE LA CORROSION DE CONTACT POUR ASSURER L'ADHÉRENCE.
AL NYHUS :
A cut core that's 2.5-3.0 gr. over what the finsihed weight will be works well for this setup. With other makers dies, this may be too much waste. My Blackmon core die has 3 'squirt' holes for excess material and unless all three of these are completely filled with 'squirt', the cores will drift a bit from the desired finished weight. Other dies with a fewer number of 'squirt' holes may be able to use use a cut core weight closer than what my setup requires. Don't know about that for sure...just know this setup.
Lube is applied to the sides of a glass jar, then the cores are dumped in. Lots of lubes work for this step...Marvel Mystery Oil is a good one. I've also used a 50/50 mix of STP and Mobil 1 5W20.
Then the glass jar is plunked into the Thumblers Tumbler for 30 minutes. This model Thumbler (AR12) has a hexagonal shaped rubber barrel, so the jar just kind of flops around inside as it turns. This ensures a good distribution of lube. You don't want the jar too full of cores, as they need some room in the jar to move around.
You adjust the lock ring on the punch holder to move the core punch in/out until you get to the desired weight of the core...just like adjusting a f.l. die in a press. With the weight of the jackets I'm using, a 77.3 gr. core is what I'm after.
ROBINETT : vHey, Al, reduce the [core-lube] tumble-time to 4-5 minutes . . . all of that lead-dust will, "go away"!
Paul, Terry Meyer, pulls his wire straight off the roll (over-head mount), and into the core-cutter, skipping the straightening - I certain others do the same - but look what happens to his bullets!
Time to clean the cores. Coleman lantern fuel (white gas) works good. So does acetone, but it's tough on the hands. I put 1,000 cores in the 'wash' bucket, cover 'em with the lantern fuel and slosh 'em around to get the bulk of the lube off. Then, they go into a 'rinse' bucket with clean lantern fuel for the final rinse. The small stainless strainer fit inside the J4 buckets and catches any of the small bit of squirt, etc. Then, the cores are laid out to air dry.
APRES LAVAGE NYHUS LES MET À BOUILLIR POUR 10 MINUTES ET RINCE À L'EAU CHAUDE FAUDRA DU DÉMORALISÉ, CALCAIRE !!!
Once they're dry, the cores go into this expanding colander that fits inside a stainless stockpot. The colander has several small standoffs on the bottom, so the cores are never directly against the bottom of the pot...just suspended in the boiling mix of Simple Green Concentrate and water. Some of these pics I'd posted before on the infamous other bullet making thread. After boiling them for 10 minutes, they're rinsed off with hot water and spread out on a cloth to air dry.
AL NYHUS SUR LES MATRICES
The bushings that the wire goes through are fitted pretty closely to the core wire diameter, so it's well supported during the cutting operation
AL NYHUS% LUBE ROBINETT
What I used today was R.G.'s brew of anhydrous lanolin and pure neats foot oil and a 5 minute tumble time. The cores were cleaner, I didn't have to 'squirt' off as much and the finished cores showed less weight variance than before. Plus, my fingers are really smooth and soft from all that lanolin...…
ÇA DOIT ÊTRE DU 1 PIED BOEUF /5 LANOLINE À VERIFIER QUANTITÉ???
Please note I never squirt a core for the moment, I am at the beginning of my bullet making project. Anyway, I did some homework in digging BRC as deep as I could. Here below is what I gathered. Comments in French are my own mind so, considering my HUGE non-experience in bullet making, it's probably better just to ignore them.
All below is copy/paste/extract of nearly a hundred of posts from approx 10 threads from BRC and Accurate.
Once again, thanks to all the Gentlemen who shared are are still sharing their (sometimes hardly) acquired knowledge. May they walk on rose petals for the next thousand years.
==================================
Plomb, core
Bigger dedicated swaging presses can use a hardness up to about 8 or 10.
uniform core weight= uniform core seating. Uniform core seating = uniform points.
Some bullet makers use only pure lead wire in making cores, others use a lead/antimony alloy which is harder and stronger. Pure lead cores are easier to squirt and seat from the standpoint of effort on the press handle but pure lead tends to stick to the core seating punch.
Some leads naturally oxidize more than others (origin) but like as Gene mentioned many now are using Sb to harden and this alloy oxidizes very little. The primary reason antimony is added to lead? To reduce the friction and decrease wear in the die.
Some leads naturally oxidize more than others (origin) but like as Gene mentioned many now are using Sb to harden and this alloy oxidizes very little.
Seater un noyau plomb oxydé ruinerait l'adhérence core/jacket
Antimony gives better flow characteristics in pressure extrusions. Alors est-ce que ça fait un noyau mieux formé?
I stopped using antimony lead 7 years ago because of the inconsistent mixing. I was getting large hardness deviations and went back to pure lead with excellent results.
I don't boil my lead (This causes lead hardening with an inconsistent BHN
Proper degreasing of cores before seating.
Why is it so important to thoroughly degrease cores before seating? Because the slightest trace of lube reduces friction between the jacket and core increasing the likelihood of core stripping.
There are many solvents that can be used to degrease cores , but the most effective agent I have found is Trichlorethane, which is a hazardous material and must be used with caution. It's hard to find and I don't use it since Dow Chemical introduced their NuTri which seems to work just as well but is safer. NuTri is expensive but well worth it and evaporates quickly especially if you heat the cores with a heat gun. It removes all traces of oil, grease and other contaminants and leaves no residue. One should keep three containers of solvent and rotate them so the last bath is always pure and clean. The first bath removes most of the lube and will quickly turn dark. The second bath removes virtually all contamination and the third bath insures that the cores are squeaky clean.
I etched the cores with a gallon of water and about 2 tablespoons of white vinegar. Soak them for about 5 minutes and then rinse in fresh running water for another 5 minutes to stop the etching process.
Many bullet makers use some type of etching on the cores before seating, others boil them in some type of detergent or phosphate. At this time, I feel the best method is to simply insure the jackets and cores are squeaky clean by washing them in a triple bath of NuTri or Trichlorethane, but I'm always looking for ways to improve on this.
I then spread the cores out on a towel (which of course dampens the towel) and cover them with another damp towel. I peek at them once in a while, and when the grey color is just right I remove the top towel and let them dry. LUI LAISSERAIT OXYDATION DÉVELOPPÉÉ PAR VOIE ACQUEUSE/HUMIDE
double pumping cores. I have been doing this for 10 years now at my mentors recommendation. Takes a small amount of extra time but the second pump blows off the tailings and gives a core that is plus or minus a tenth for as long as you want to pull the handle.
The second swage seems to get a more compressed core with much finer surface texture.
Anyway it does produce a tighter weight tolerance SURTOUT MOINS DE VARIATION VOLUME CORE DONT ++ DE RÉGULARITÉ AU SEATING
and then etching with dishwasher detergent. Efficacité etching discutée I'm not 100 percent sure that the etching really offer any benefits, as the cores are worked alot during the core seat process.
I cut my wire into 17" lengths. When cut, this gives 28 useable cores for the 117's with minimal waste on each end of the 'stick'. I figure each stick equals 25 cores, so it's easy to figure how many sticks are needed to made a certain number of cores. The extra 3 per stick I consider freebies. After squirting 1,000 cores, I end up with about 115-120 freebies that I dump off into another container for use later.
I use Pure lead without the antimony. I feel i get a better core and that's the recomended Material that Bahlers book wrote about . New clean lead uniform in diameter with out any oxidation.
I cut my cores about 3 grn heavier
SUR DU 6 47 GN: I only allow 1/ 10 grain difference in my core
yes you can store cut cores for an extended length of time i would lube before storing and use some sort of closed jar. on 66-68 gr. ogives all work fine as long as everything is in the center. george
AlNyhus:
al nyhus :
Joe, I squirt my cores using Marvel Mystery Oil as a lube. To remove the lube, the cores go into J4 jacket buckets with some camp stove fuel (white gas), get swished around good and then air dried to get rid of the solvent stink.
To boil them, Simple Green concentrate mixed with water per the labels 'heavy cleaning' directions does a nice job in a 5 minute boil. Others I know use Spic 'N Span and Oxy Clean powder with good results. Not a lot of science here....just a good cleaning to get the remaining solvent and grease off. Simple Green is good because it doesn't stink up the house and it's biodegradable.
After coming out of the boil, they get rinsed off with hot running tap water in a colander, spread out on a old towel and patted dry. Then, they get spread on a dry paper towel for a day. Within a few hours, they'll take on a dull gray look. I don't like my cores heavily etched...just cleaned with a smooth surface. Then they get packed into plastic tubs and labeled with weight, antimony info, etc. and stored until used. A small dessicant pack gets tossed into the storage tubs as well. If I'm not going to use them for a few months, the lube stays on.
Keeping cores made up is a double edged deal. It's the suckiest (if that's not a real word, it should be ) part of bullet making. It's nice to take your beating once, make up t-h-o-u-s-a-n-d-s at a time and get the misery over with. I'd rather put my digits in a vise and start tightening it, than make cores......
At the same time, jacket weights can vary enough that if you're stuck on a particular 'number' for your bullets to weigh, you can be in for a surprise. Since I'm a little guy bullet maker, I keep ahead by having my cut cores done to work with the high and low side of jacket weights. That way, the worst that happens is I have a bit of extra 'squirt off' if the jackets are heavy. But at least half the agony is over and all I need to do is run 'em through the squirt die.
The cores must be thoroughly degreased before jacket seating. I use Coleman camp fuel to do this and with good results. 1,000 cores are placed in a mason jar and filled with the solvent. After 2 minutes of gently rolling by hand, the wash is drained through the punctured lid. FAUT SURTOUT PAS LES ESQUINTER À CET INSTANT.
IL UTILISE GENRE GROS BOCAL DE CONSERVE AVEC UN COUVERCLE PERCÉ DEPUIS L'INTÉRIEUR POUR PAS RAYER LES CORES PAS BON POUR LE RINÇAGE , ÇA MACÈRE
After this is done three times the cores are placed in a strainer. Clean Coleman is poured over them for their final rinse.
DONC LUI EN FAIT N'UTILISE QUE 2 BAINS. C'EST MAL. PLUSIEURS FOIS (3) DANS LE MÊME BAIN C'EST 2 POUR DU BEURRE PUISQUE LA CONCENTRATION DE POLLUANT NE BAISSE PAS DANS LES BAINS SUCCESSIFS ET IL REPREND LA CONTAMINATION DU BAIN 1. MIEUX VAUT PRÉVOIR 3 SEAUX.
SÉCHAGE À L'AIR - IL UTILISE LÀ DES BARQUETTES DE CUISSON JETABLES EN ALUMINIUM POUR 1000 CORES DE 44 GRAINS EN 6
Nyhus:
With a 1% mix, I get less lead buildup on the leading edge of the core seating punches than with the .5%. The core seated jackets eject cleaner and the jacket shortening when seating cores is more consistent with the harder core material.
Step 4 - Core Swaging
Before you swage cores they must be lubricated. There’s no one way to do this. A lot of guys use anhydrous lanolin mixed with Vaseline, neatsfoot oil, or castor oil. This is lightly applied to the walls of a glass jar and tumbled for 5 minutes. I went petroleum based and chose Marvel Mystery oil. Automatic transmission fluid works equally well. The carrier is acetone and the cores are simply dunked into the mix.
One gallon of acetone is poured into a 5 gallon bucket.A second 1 gallon bucket is drilled dozens of times. Make sure the holes are less than the diameter of the core. I went with 11/64”.(il fait du 6)
6 ounces of Marvel Mystery Oil is added to the acetone and stirred. Il mt ses lugs dans le petit seau percé et plonge agite replonge plusieurs fois dans le MMOil dilué acétone. Cores are then laid out to dry. The acetone evaporates in 10 – 15 minutes.
Il utilise des petits plateaux en inox, c'est sympa.
The best way to achieve consistency is to run the ram into the die, hold for 2 seconds, lower it, and repress and hold for another 2 seconds. You want to apply the same amount of pressure and dwell time core to core. L'IDÉE EST BONNE MAIS TECHNIQUEMENT C'EST N'IMPORTE QUOI, FAUT UNE BUTÉE ET RESTER SUR LA BUTÉE ET IDEM PARTOUT POUR ARRIVER À LA STABILITÉ AU FLUAGE. ÇA DOIT PAS PRENDRE DES HEURES MAIS PEUT-ÊTRE BIEN 3-4 SECONDES POUR ARRIVER À UNE VARIATION AU FLUAGE QUASI NULLE. Gare à l'élongation/raccourcissement des bielles DONC À LA POSITION DE LA BUTÉE.
2,000 swaged cores. It took about 9 hours to run these, and that includes cutting time. Sur la photo ils sont en 2 lots, donc il a travaillé 9 h total moins 2h de coupe =7h =>3h30 de swaging pour 1000 cores. Gare à la fatigue.
Step 5 - Core Degreasing
Some take this a step further and etch the cores. This roughens the surface a bit and in theory gives better jacket adhesion. After talking to a few folks, including Ulrich, I’m not convinced this does anything to improve accuracy. George recommended I just degrease them and move right to seating. Maybe in time I’ll etch and see if it makes a difference on paper. The steps involved go as follows:
Get a colander and some tri-sodium phosphate (TSP). Put the colander in a large metal pot and pour the cores into it. Make sure the colander has feet that raise it an inch or so off the bottom of the pot. Add a half gallon of water and one tablespoon of TSP and place it on a stove. Bring the water to a boil and allow it to cook for ten minutes. Then rinse them in a strainer with hot running water. When dry they’ll be dull in color and look frosted.
LUI ETCHE LES CORES. LES AVIS SONT PARTAGÉS. LUI CRÉE DU RELIEF POUR UN GENRE DE SERTISSAGE LORSQU'IL VA MONTER LE CORE DANS LA JACKET. IL FAIT DU RELIEF MAIS DIMINUE LA SURFACE DE CONTACT. DANS UNE OPTIQUE DE MÛRISSEMENT (SEMAINES) DES CORES FRAÎCHEMENT MONTÉS, JE PRÉFÈRE LISSE POUR ALLER SUR DE LA COROSION SOUS CONTRAINTE ET DE LA CORROSION DE CONTACT POUR ASSURER L'ADHÉRENCE.
AL NYHUS :
A cut core that's 2.5-3.0 gr. over what the finsihed weight will be works well for this setup. With other makers dies, this may be too much waste. My Blackmon core die has 3 'squirt' holes for excess material and unless all three of these are completely filled with 'squirt', the cores will drift a bit from the desired finished weight. Other dies with a fewer number of 'squirt' holes may be able to use use a cut core weight closer than what my setup requires. Don't know about that for sure...just know this setup.
Lube is applied to the sides of a glass jar, then the cores are dumped in. Lots of lubes work for this step...Marvel Mystery Oil is a good one. I've also used a 50/50 mix of STP and Mobil 1 5W20.
Then the glass jar is plunked into the Thumblers Tumbler for 30 minutes. This model Thumbler (AR12) has a hexagonal shaped rubber barrel, so the jar just kind of flops around inside as it turns. This ensures a good distribution of lube. You don't want the jar too full of cores, as they need some room in the jar to move around.
You adjust the lock ring on the punch holder to move the core punch in/out until you get to the desired weight of the core...just like adjusting a f.l. die in a press. With the weight of the jackets I'm using, a 77.3 gr. core is what I'm after.
ROBINETT : vHey, Al, reduce the [core-lube] tumble-time to 4-5 minutes . . . all of that lead-dust will, "go away"!
Paul, Terry Meyer, pulls his wire straight off the roll (over-head mount), and into the core-cutter, skipping the straightening - I certain others do the same - but look what happens to his bullets!
Time to clean the cores. Coleman lantern fuel (white gas) works good. So does acetone, but it's tough on the hands. I put 1,000 cores in the 'wash' bucket, cover 'em with the lantern fuel and slosh 'em around to get the bulk of the lube off. Then, they go into a 'rinse' bucket with clean lantern fuel for the final rinse. The small stainless strainer fit inside the J4 buckets and catches any of the small bit of squirt, etc. Then, the cores are laid out to air dry.
APRES LAVAGE NYHUS LES MET À BOUILLIR POUR 10 MINUTES ET RINCE À L'EAU CHAUDE FAUDRA DU DÉMORALISÉ, CALCAIRE !!!
Once they're dry, the cores go into this expanding colander that fits inside a stainless stockpot. The colander has several small standoffs on the bottom, so the cores are never directly against the bottom of the pot...just suspended in the boiling mix of Simple Green Concentrate and water. Some of these pics I'd posted before on the infamous other bullet making thread. After boiling them for 10 minutes, they're rinsed off with hot water and spread out on a cloth to air dry.
AL NYHUS SUR LES MATRICES
The bushings that the wire goes through are fitted pretty closely to the core wire diameter, so it's well supported during the cutting operation
AL NYHUS% LUBE ROBINETT
What I used today was R.G.'s brew of anhydrous lanolin and pure neats foot oil and a 5 minute tumble time. The cores were cleaner, I didn't have to 'squirt' off as much and the finished cores showed less weight variance than before. Plus, my fingers are really smooth and soft from all that lanolin...…
ÇA DOIT ÊTRE DU 1 PIED BOEUF /5 LANOLINE À VERIFIER QUANTITÉ???
wax
If this question is way off topic, let me know, I will delete....no hurts
What can I do to keep the bullets shiny after they are pointed, degreased and polished on the rotary thumbler?
I wish they had the same shine as the Bergers.
It is even noticed that the Berger require less effort than Sierra's (for example) in the seating process..
Are any types of wax applied to maintain the shine and facilitate seating?
If this question is way off topic, let me know, I will delete....no hurts
What can I do to keep the bullets shiny after they are pointed, degreased and polished on the rotary thumbler?
I wish they had the same shine as the Bergers.
It is even noticed that the Berger require less effort than Sierra's (for example) in the seating process..
Are any types of wax applied to maintain the shine and facilitate seating?
BillBrawand
New member
making your bullets shinny is bad leave small amt of lube to keep barrel fromjacketing up
BillBrawand
New member
tell this by feel
BillBrawand
New member
squrit 200 tho.out at a time of 3 holes light amt of motor oil on cloth as you cut after swage boil 20 minutes and let dry use cascade dish soap rool in towel there re4ady