Chambering question on worn lathe

R

rain164845

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Hi all,
I bought a lathe with the intention of chambering through the headstock with a spider on the outboard end. As it turns out, my lathe has enough wear to catch a fingernail on the v ways. I realize that if I run the tailstock in towards the headstock, it will take my reamer off center due to more wear near the headstock, how do you compensate for this when chambering? I suppose a floating reamer holder will compensate somewhat.....
Thanks!
 
I found that with my lathe that I can cut a tighter chamber with a pusher than I can with a dead center. When the reamer is pushed in with the dead center, I can't tell that the reamer has any discernible shake in the reamed hole. However, brass shot in a barrel chambered using the dead center will not interchange in a barrel chambered with a pusher. I'd suggest with a lathe with wear on the ways close to the headstock to cut a slightly loose thread and push the reamer into the bore with a floating pusher provided that the bearings are good in the headstock. If the bearings aren't good, I'd either replace the bearings or see about chambering in a steady rest.
 
thanks.

Thanks, lots of good reading.


I found that with my lathe that I can cut a tighter chamber with a pusher than I can with a dead center. When the reamer is pushed in with the dead center, I can't tell that the reamer has any discernible shake in the reamed hole. However, brass shot in a barrel chambered using the dead center will not interchange in a barrel chambered with a pusher. I'd suggest with a lathe with wear on the ways close to the headstock to cut a slightly loose thread and push the reamer into the bore with a floating pusher provided that the bearings are good in the headstock. If the bearings aren't good, I'd either replace the bearings or see about chambering in a steady rest.
 
Tell me how worn ways will hurt you chambering. You are only using the ways for about an inch of tenon and threading. How much taper will you have in that distance, damn little.
 
I was concerned that moving the tail stock down to the worn part near the head might move the rear center lower, which might mess things up, but it should be well within the float allowed by a floating reamer holder.
 
I was concerned that moving the tail stock down to the worn part near the head might move the rear center lower, which might mess things up, but it should be well within the float allowed by a floating reamer holder.

Below is a photo of my pusher. Similar to the Bald Eagle and Mike Bryant's. The way it is designed the tailstock orientation really makes no difference.
wswly8.jpg
 
Shimming Tail Stocks

you can shim your tailstock to where it needs to be. There is a pretty good Youtube segment by a guy named Halligan who does his. Pretty simple and easy to do.

Pete
 
you can shim your tailstock to where it needs to be. There is a pretty good Youtube segment by a guy named Halligan who does his. Pretty simple and easy to do.

Pete

Shimming a tailstock only helps if you have one really worn tailstock base. not way wear but tailstock base wear and are turning long parts between centers. As to shimming to get a straight reamer push it might help for a short time but the lathe will eventually change levels, out it goes again.

I have set lathes with a $1.5 million dollar industrial laser on 48" reinforced isolated bases only to check in a few months with the laser and the lathe has moved. Nothing setting on Gods earth ever stays perfectly stationary. We bought this laser to set large steam turbines but used it some setting machine tools. This laser had its own full-time operating crew so it was being used by factory trained experts.

If you are chambering use a floating pusher. They work every time!

As long as the spindle runs smoothly it doesn't hurt to have some play in the spindle shaft for chambering work. That said, if you have rough bearings, something you can easily have with this Chicom stuff, new or used, you might not get the desired finish. Worn spindles that use bushings in something like an old South Bends still run smoothly even though they may be sloppy on a "pry" test.

The only really good bearing spindles for precision work come on something like Hardinges or Monarch 10EE's and those bearings were about $18,000/set in 1995. So don't expect to get that quality spindle bearings in a lathe that only costs $5,000 new for the entire machine!! Remember, the great gunsmith, Seeley Masker, had 3 SB Heavy 10's and his son Jerry sill owns and uses them.

EDIT- using the Mike Bryant style pusher, used by many gunsmiths, is the best design I've seen. Unfortunately Mike has retired and taken down his gunsmith web site.

.
 
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Mike, you wouldn't happen to have a picture of your pusher design would you? Thanks!
 
Why would you want the handle to clear the bed. My handle is always 100% of the time resting on something. My reamer holder is a Sinclair case holder for neck turning with one side extended. It takes a larger diameter reamer and me pushing it pretty hard to get to spin but it is free to spin when stupid sets in.
 
good news!

It isn't in nearly as bad of condition as I first thought. I am getting the old gal put back together after a thorough cleaning.
 

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Why would you want the handle to clear the bed. My handle is always 100% of the time resting on something. My reamer holder is a Sinclair case holder for neck turning with one side extended. It takes a larger diameter reamer and me pushing it pretty hard to get to spin but it is free to spin when stupid sets in.

Hi Dave. Any way to get a picture of that setup?
 
This is my setup on my Haas. I added the rod to the tool holder which holds a modified tailstock. I push it the same way on my manual machines and let the handle rest on the compound.
 

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