NezRongero
Member
I use threading bits from ThinBit by Kaiser, on this particular case I threaded with the compound and brand new bit. Used the cross slide for additional 0.001 after done with compound.
Chambering a Panda
- Thread starter gzig5
- Start date
I use threading bits from ThinBit by Kaiser, on this particular case I threaded with the compound and brand new bit. Used the cross slide for additional 0.001 after done with compound.
johan teughels
Member
somthimes the tip of the cutting tool is not sharp enuff so it does not cut deep enuff you can have the right dia. and cutting depth with the 3 wire methode and it still does not fit
do not ask how i now LOL
do not ask how i now LOL
JerrySharrett
Senile Member
Another thing too for those using factory carbide threading tools. For example a positive rake (TPMG) will take those final cuts more predictable than a neutral rake (TNMG) tool.
Keep in mind too, while you can feed aggressively on the first few passes since the tool isn't under much load the last 3-4 passes must be much lighter since the tool is cutting a full load. And too, these little tool room size lathes most of use will "spring back" and not cut accurately under that full load.
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Keep in mind too, while you can feed aggressively on the first few passes since the tool isn't under much load the last 3-4 passes must be much lighter since the tool is cutting a full load. And too, these little tool room size lathes most of use will "spring back" and not cut accurately under that full load.
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Update.
I've finished chambering the barrel in question. I think it turned out very nicely. The bronze wedding ring worked, but the screws still flattened the radius I put on it which would affect the barrel's ability to pivot, so I think I'll try steel the next time. The reamer cut on size at the base (a .471 pin would just start) and chamber is round with no runout or chatter. I nearly screwed the pooch when I bumped the cross slide handle between cuts on the cone, it's supposed to stay put and carriage controls depth. The next cut started MUCH deeper than expected but I had far enough to go that it cleaned up. Torqued the barrel to 40 lb-ft. I ended up with .008" bolt nose clearance and the stripped bolt drops on the GO gauge but will not close with a .002" shim on the back, so I'm happy. Crowned at eleven degrees with a light 45 degree kiss on the inner radius. Made a brass driver pilot for the muzzle, padded with two cleaning patches and then spun it for a while at 400 rpm while I ran a green Scotchbrite pad on it. Hope to see how it shoots this weekend. I appreciate the wise counsel that was shared.
Greg
I've finished chambering the barrel in question. I think it turned out very nicely. The bronze wedding ring worked, but the screws still flattened the radius I put on it which would affect the barrel's ability to pivot, so I think I'll try steel the next time. The reamer cut on size at the base (a .471 pin would just start) and chamber is round with no runout or chatter. I nearly screwed the pooch when I bumped the cross slide handle between cuts on the cone, it's supposed to stay put and carriage controls depth. The next cut started MUCH deeper than expected but I had far enough to go that it cleaned up. Torqued the barrel to 40 lb-ft. I ended up with .008" bolt nose clearance and the stripped bolt drops on the GO gauge but will not close with a .002" shim on the back, so I'm happy. Crowned at eleven degrees with a light 45 degree kiss on the inner radius. Made a brass driver pilot for the muzzle, padded with two cleaning patches and then spun it for a while at 400 rpm while I ran a green Scotchbrite pad on it. Hope to see how it shoots this weekend. I appreciate the wise counsel that was shared.
Greg