Chamber first or thread the tenon first

F

f21sh

Guest
Hello Which to perform first; thread the tenon first or chamber first. Chicken / egg thing?
 
I now do the threads first to be able to use my head space and bolt nose clearance tools. Can't easily screw a barrel onto a glued in receiver if chambering in the headstock.
 
I establish what I consider the best chamber I can in the blank, then do all of the subsequent machining operations.........jackie
 
cdupuy said:
Al
Tell us how you (clock) barrels
Click to expand...

I find the curve of the barrel at the throat and cut the threads and shank and leave the tenon a fuzz long. Then I screw the action on Gordy style and fiddle with the shoulder until I get it where I want it. I counterbore so the bolt fits and set my end clearance. Finally I chamber. I've built a contraption on my tailstock which allows me to set headspace repeatably to under a thou.

al
 
alinwa said:
I find the curve of the barrel at the throat and cut the threads and shank and leave the tenon a fuzz long. Then I screw the action on Gordy style and fiddle with the shoulder until I get it where I want it. I counterbore so the bolt fits and set my end clearance. Finally I chamber. I've built a contraption on my tailstock which allows me to set headspace repeatably to under a thou.

al
Click to expand...

To stay on topic: I cut off both ends to eliminate lapping flare, Machine the crown, reverse the blank, turn & thread the tenon, clock the receiver to point the bore in the muzzle up using a DTI on a range rod in the muzzle, then chamber.

I have a "contraption" on my tailstock too - it just adapts a dial indicator to read tail stock quill position - works great. Using the carriage as a stop for the tail stock it's very repeatable, not as good as the precision reamer stop, but within a mil. What does yours look like?

Fitch
 
From what Ferris Pindell taught me;

Rough them both, then finish turn the tenon diameter and shoulder.
Then chamber. Having finished the tenon shoulder gives you a surface to set the headspace from.
Then chamber and last, thread the tenon.
 
Not saying any one way is wrong but I was taught by Stick to thread first ,index and then cut the chamber .His thoughts were when the chamber is completely cut first and then threaded ,the stresses from threading can come through and show up in the chamber as rings or lumps especially after firing a few times.Kind of works like reading the stamped brand name from the inside of the barrel with the bore scope . Tim in Tx
 
tim in tx said:
Not saying any one way is wrong but I was taught by Stick to thread first ,index and then cut the chamber .His thoughts were when the chamber is completely cut first and then threaded ,the stresses from threading can come through and show up in the chamber as rings or lumps especially after firing a few times.Kind of works like reading the stamped brand name from the inside of the barrel with the bore scope . Tim in Tx
Click to expand...

On a shotgun barrel I might half way believe that!!
 
Jerry ,I understand sir .Everybody has their own way ,just one more way to skin a cat.Speedy or stick can probably give you the specifics on the imprints showing up in the bores and chambers.,but I shall not spite my teachers .I do what they tell me to do and life is good[lol].

Tim in TX
 
alinwa said:
Jim Borden won't stamp a barrel.

al
Click to expand...
AL sir
I hear that from some br smiths as well,Speedy and stick do not even like the idea of even motorized engraving them in ,They prefer to scratch the letters in to the metal .I liked that idea because if I screwed up on the lettering or the barrel slipped during engraving I can polish it back off and try ,try again . god knows I needed that option.

Tim in Tx
 
Hey that is pretty cool,Man I wish I had bought one of them before I spent the money on the New Hermes and fonts..May still get one anyway.Thanks Al.

Tim in Tx
 
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