case trimming

the rotary stop on my delta drill press gave less than acceptable results - about +/- 0.005" length. Some drill presses have a linear stop like a threaded rod with two jam nuts. Maybe they would work better. I like the forster hand lathe with their 3-in-1 cutter that trims and chamfers inside and out all in one operation. Rcbs has a similar cutter. They are faster and more consistent than three separate operations. The power trimmers look nice, but my arms need more exercise, not less.

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Trimming and chamfering inside and out all in one pass will take more torque. Anytime you try to do 3 things at once you will fight the get the tool adjsuted perfect, and then once you have it adjusted, you'll likely not want to move it ever. This may cause you to get more bulk for your exercising, less tone, and fewer reps. Two more execizes that you'll be doing is the reach for the wallet move (to buy more tools for different brass because you dont want to adjust the tool once set), and the throw this brass in the trash exercise (until the tool is set perfect). If those exercizes are appealing to you arms, so be it.
:D
 
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Trimming and chamfering inside and out all in one pass will take more torque. Anytime you try to do 3 things at once you will fight the get the tool adjsuted perfect, and then once you have it adjusted, you'll likely not want to move it ever. This may cause you to get more bulk for your exercising, less tone, and fewer reps. Two more execizes that you'll be doing is the reach for the wallet move (to buy more tools for different brass because you dont want to adjust the tool once set), and the throw this brass in the trash exercise (until the tool is set perfect). If those exercizes are appealing to you arms, so be it.
:D

Is "dorramide7" some code for "echo"??? It ain't me, but I'll respond since the words are copied directly from my reply.

pbike,
My right arm is so huge from turning the crank that I have to drink beer only with my left, just to regain balance.;)

Seriously, I don't notice a difference in effort between the Forster and the Wilson. It may have something to do with the chamfer cuts being skewed relative to the axis of the turner - the angle of the chamfer reduces the axial force needed. The face cut requires the most axial force, but since the chamfers are cut at the same time, there is less face cut required.

The Forster cutters come pretty well adjusted. I only made small fine tuning adjustments, one for each caliber. No brass lost so far. You're right, the cutters might need to be readjusted for thicker/thinner necks of the same caliber, but I haven't run into this yet. I think, but don't know for sure, that a cutter set for a thin BR neck would cut the same inside chamfer, same face cut, and larger outside chamfer on a thick factory neck. This might be acceptable, or you could move the outside chamfer tool outward a bit. The outside cutter is easy to adjust. Just loosen it and press it against the neck of a partially trimmed case inserted into the tool. Moderate pressure during tightening will result in a few thousanths chamfer.

The cutters do cost in the range of three times that of a Wilson shellholder, but then you only need one for each caliber. Depending on the number and types of cases you load for, the cost advantage could swing one way or the other.

The biggest differences I see are the time savings and the accuracy. At least for me, the chamfers turn out more consistent and uniform with the 3-in-1 than what I can do in three manual operations. YMMV

Cheers,
Keith
 
When trimming cases for my 600yd br rifle,I use the Wilson trimmer,as all tricked out by Sinclair.I also deburr with a Wilson deburring tool that fits their trimmer.My only complaint is that the cutter seems to get dull quicker than you would expect.I have the carbide cutter as my next replacement,but have not used it yet.I have a Giraud that I use on my volume stuff,and it will hold around .001 after you get use to using it. Lightman
 
I also tried the Wilson debur tool for their trimmer. Using Winchester cases, new and fired in factory chamber, the debur is really off center. I suspect maybe Lapua brass and a quality/custom chamber may change this?

Wyatt
 
I also tried the Wilson debur tool for their trimmer. Using Winchester cases, new and fired in factory chamber, the debur is really off center. I suspect maybe Lapua brass and a quality/custom chamber may change this?

Wyatt

The Wilson cut on the NECK is referenced to the BODY of the case, therefore any misalignment between the neck and body, i.e. crooked brass, would cause the cut to be off center. But the problem could also be that the the Wilson cutter is not concentric with the shellholder. To find out which is the problem, you could inspect the cut before you remove the brass from the shellholder. If the cut is always high, low, left or right, then the problem is in the lathe. If the offset is random, then it is the brass.

Cheers,
Keith
 
I use a Hornady with power adapter. My calipers tell me it is dead on consistant once it's set up.
 
Neck runout or off center caseholder

Farmboy, I had the same trouble with an off center debur using the Wilson crank tool. I suspected the holder and bought another and sure enough the thing works great now. If your neck runout is good that may be the problem. Wonder how many guys are shooting with case mouths that aren't straight to the case body because they're blindly trusting the Wilson case holder to be true? I also like to turn the holder while deburring.

I got a carbide cutter for Wilsons off of some forum a while back and the thing worked horrible. Think it was a PTG? Went back to the standard Wilson for taking off less than .005” or so. Use a powered carbide Lyman first to get them close.
 
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