Butch Lambert's building scope bases on action pictures

Boyd Allen

Active member
Seeins I'm the unofficial picture poster, here are some more for your enjoyment. (Now play nice.)
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Butch, as long as it works

Seeins I'm the unofficial picture poster, here are some more for your enjoyment. (Now play nice.),,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,


I can't see anything wrong with it. However, who was the one who done the welds on the recoil lug? I hope like hell, that it wasn't you Butch.
I've enjoyed your pictures. As you can see, even I can play nice.

Shoot better
Peter
 
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Wow

I just noticed those welds. I would think that there are somethings,and some locations you just should not weld on. Like the pressure holding area of a action that has been through final heat treat and is finished.
But then, it might be a non-issue........jackie
 
Thanks Boyd. To address some of the questions that have been asked and will be asked. The receiver was sent to Pacific Metalurigical [sp] and was annealed. After the recoil lug was tig welded it was sent back for heat treat. They have been doing this for years on custom receivers.
This is going to be a 6.5x47 Lapua hunting rifle with an octagon barrel. The bases were roughed out on the mill, Each have 1 screw and 1 hidden stud holding them as well as being soldered on the receiver. The finish machining was done on the mill with a tight fitting mandrel that was between centers. I used a 60 deg. dovetail cutter. I will use Talley quick disconnect rings. Thanks to Jay Lynn Gore for the polish work.
Butch
www.shadetreeea.com
 
Butch, Domoran

Buch, I knew the "welds" were just tacks for the welds to be completed later. I have more respect for you and your skills than that. However, it was something that I couldn't resist to comment on. You didn't have to reply for me to know, but maybe just as well you did. Someone else could think, that this is what you normally do.

Dmoran, I'll try to do better next time. Thanks for your valid advice.

Shoot better
Peter
 
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Someone else could think, that this is what you normally do.

Based on Butches track record, I doubt there are those here that would think anything negative of him. Nice work Butch, that'll be a very nice hunter.

William
 
Jackie

I liked the fact, that you were little bit alarmed about a welding on the receiver ring. There are Europian countries where any welding on the receiver ring is prohibited by law.
Some 15 years ago a friend of mine a gunshop owner in a small country town came across a professional shooter who couldn't get his .222 chambered Sako to shoot. So he (the owner of the rifle) welded the two base mounts to the receiver all around, while he was at it he welded the scope split rings as well to trap the scope in it. He used just arc/electrods to do so and he apparently was shooting that rifle for a while, before replacing it with another Sako.

Shoot better
Peter
 
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Peter

Occasionally, one of our customers will come in with something, like a shaft out of a crane draw works, or perhaps out of a large gear box, wanting us to "weld up" a wallowed bearing fit, or something else that came loose and ruined a criticle fit.
We try to explain that things like this are more times than not made from some sort of Alloy steel that is heat treated and inspected to the "nth" degree, and you just do not weld on stuff like that.
One of the worst was a man that brought a big winch cable drum in that had a bearing fit wallowed on one end. It turns out this guy was, of all things, a Elevator Mechanic. We told him under no circumstances would we do what he wanted, that being to weld the fit up and re-machine it, and felt obigated to make a phone call to the city building inspectors. He promised us that they would scrap the drum out and not attempt to fix it.
He knew better. Like I said,there are some things you just do not do........jackie
Incidentally, he called us about a week later and said that they ordered a new drum and had installed it.
 
A propper tig weld in this case will have no effect..

Jackie:

With a square wave push pull tig the welding of SS or 4140 the weld will be done so shallow it will have little to no any structural strength change. The weld puddle should be kept to less than a 1/16 of of an inch. I would recomend a tight fitting mandrel in the bolt race during the weld process to help insure little or no warpage. I weld up square bridges for mausers all the time. Then send them off to be reheat treated. Butch your grandson will love that rifle.

Nat
 
Our millwrights will weld up 4140 (TPG) shafting with no ill effects. Pre-heat the shaft and use the correct rod and your good to go.
 
It was common practice for old country mechanics to put a couple of pennies in the woodruf key space and weld up the end of a cam or crank to repair where a key ripped out the seat, and then turn the area to clean it up. Of cource, the forces involved were different, and nobody was going to be standing under it.
 
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