bushing die question with ejector guns

C

chuck williams

Guest
my bench rifles have never had ejectors and i was wondering what the proper way to uniform the necks would be before they are sized in a bushing die when the necks are no longer round? that sounds confusing i guess. what i am saying is that without an ejector, the cases come out perfectly round in the neck. if the ejector pushes the case against the wall of the chamber and receiver on the way out, the neck is no longer round. how do you make them round again before going in a bushing die that does not have an expander button? thanks.

chuck
 
Are you using a lot of pressure on your ejector? My benchrest rifles have very little pressure on the ejector pin. The only time they go out of round is if they drop on the range floor. Most time they will round back out when you run them through the bushing.
 
mr. bryant,

the rifles are built on surgeon receivers and have considerable ejector force. do you suggest i trim the ejector spring back until the rounds just clear the receiver? thanks.

chuck
 
without a doubt

chuck williams said:
mr. bryant,

the rifles are built on surgeon receivers and have considerable ejector force. do you suggest i trim the ejector spring back until the rounds just clear the receiver? thanks.

chuck
Click to expand...

ABSOLUTELY. Sounds to me like your ejector is sprung to throw the brass in your neighbors lap.
 
Surgeon is not known to be a Benchrest action. They are marketed to Highpower and Tactical (whatever that is) shooters. I guess function as in getting rid of an empty round is very important to them... Like it has to be thrown into the next county, the millisecond that it clears the loading port. Maybe that's why the mega-strong ejector spring?

Paul
 
Most benchrest shooters like their cases to just fall out of the action if they are using an ejector. You want it to just fall out of the action on top of the bench without having it fall off the benchtop. I use a automobile rear floormat to catch my empties. It has a raised slotted surface with a ring around it and keeps them from rolling off the bench. You'll either need to trim a few coils off the ejector or more likely use a lighter weight ejector spring.
 
I have this proublem with my 700's. Never thought to trim the spring. This type of information is why I love this site.
Terry Pohl
 
CYanchycki said:
use a thicker neck........ .269. ;););)

Calvin
Click to expand...

Calvin,

Let's think about the lesser of two evils......

Trim or replace ejector spring....... $5.00, if anything

Have barrel re Chambered with a .269 neck & buy NEW BRASS,.....$350-$400

I surly know what I would do, how about U?:confused:
 
get some spring stock...

Here is the place I buy mine from....I got a piece aprox. 4ft long several yrs ago...(I forget the price but it wasnt much...) German is rite on with his advice....I have put this style spring in evrthing from deer rifle to Benchrest gun...this way you wont be tossing the emties over the hill or off the bench!!!

Ejector Spring ....century spring co-Los Angeles CA....part # R-3--make 1-5/8" long (1/4" longer than original)

Century Spring Corp.
222 East 16th Street
Los Angeles, CA 90015
Toll Free: 800.237.5225
Ph: 213.749.1466
Fx: 213.749.3802
info@centuryspring.com

this spring stock looks like the mtl. that is used in a ball point pen..It is perfect......Roger
 
When you think about it, a coil spring is just a torsion bar, coiled to save length (at the expense of total diameter). If you shorten it, it is stiffer. BUT, the preload is less. That is why you are far ahead to get a new spring of the correct length, with the "softness" you want.

Brownells sells small spring kits too.
 
Something else - - -

it is very important that the ejector pin is no longer then the bolt cone surface, otherwise you will experience problems with the bolt binding when you are trying to close it with a new round. Someone on here gave me that info and it made rifles that I was struggling with a pleasure to use. Don't be terrribly concerned about being exact on the length but they need to be NO LONGER than the front of the cone.
 
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