Bore Solvent

C

cockfight

Guest
Has anyone used or has an opinion of the TM solution bore solvent? From everything that i have researched it appears to be very effective on carbon removal. Im trying to get away from having to use the brush so frquently in conjunction with the proshot.
 
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Hey Cockfight : Well I guess nobody hears you, Some of the best shooters I know use Rinfire blend by boretech, Sinclaire. It's said to be better for the rimfire barrel, and does a good job on carbon build up, because it's made for the rf. it's not overly harsh like some made for copper. I have recently started useing it, and I feel good about it. When you consider the cost of our barrel's.....you want to do rite by them.
Im the old dog learning new trick's and I am SO greatfull for those well seasoned veteran benchrest shooter's who are willing to share their most valuable wisdom, they will save you a lot of money, agrivation, time, and most of all Bad scores. Good Luck Man! Ed Longo. Ps. some guys like to play "mixoligist" I once mixed Benchrite with Kroil........I dont know good or bad. Just thought Id throw that at ya.
 
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cockfight said:
Has anyone used or has an opinion of the TM solution bore solvent? From everything that i have researched it appears to be very effective on carbon removal. Im trying to get away from having to use the brush so frquently in conjunction with the proshot.
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Carbon removal where exactly, this is not a trick question.
 
No Sir: Not a trick question at all. I have been schooled in this by Tim. The worse carbon build up area is the "throat area" that's from chamber's end to apx.8-10" on down the barrel. This area need's occasional attn.with a mild abrasive compound on a patch wraped around a nylon brush, enough strokes to remove the accuracy robbing "carbon ring" that could form just past the lead area.
Every barrel is diffrent, some don't like it to much. Ive had barrel's that hated it and took 20-40 rds to settle down. Some take to it very well and start shooting rite off the bat. What you use for this is up to you. IMO. To much is good for your gunsmith, not enough is good for me " iff we should be at the same firing line" Again Ill say... im the old dog learning new tricks. One of the best Ive learned is that " You CAN repete clean" Ok? Ed.
 
To answer you question directly, Yes! But I still use a copper brush sparingly.I clean after every card using TM. Clean immediatly after shootin' get the solvent in let it work. Still use a copper brush.Back and forth couple times and done. Bore scope showed no carbon ever!A body could PROBALLY use a nylon brush for rimfire. I use the TM stuff for center fire and have NEVER had a carbon problem.At a 600 yd match I will shoot 4 targets,(around forty rounds) shoot 4 more and done. Let the TM do most of the work. I have found that some brushing is needed, but not a lot.I tried the nylon brush for center fire but no good. Cleaned till I thought it was good, then used the copper brush to get more stuff out.
This cleanin' bidniss is soo subjective that I share what I do qualifying that it is only what I do and with no guarantees. I am not an expert!
Tim Thompson
Hanover PA
 
It works very well on carbon. Of all the cleaners I have used, it removes carbon better than anything else. One thing you should be aware of though, is that it leaves the bore totally dry. After patching it out, there will be absolutely no residue left in the bore. Im not sure how this would affect rimfire rounds as some of the target ammo has a wax lubricant, but I always ran a patch of Butch's Gun Oil in my bore afterward. TM Gun Oil works very well also.
 
Cleaning methods differ greatly between Rimfire & Centerfire match barrel's. Again, The method That I stated is only an opinion. I have found that the TM solution is a good solvant for the copper fouling found in centerfire barrels,And may be a little harsh for the rimfire. And yes, the majority of rimfire match bullets are lubricated with a bees wax/tallow compond, and some like to avoid a total stripping. And I too, am certianly no expert. Every one is diffrent, every barrel is diffrent. With all the opinions, methods, and choices of product's out there, you will no doubt find what you like the best. Good Luck! Ed.
 
sbindy said:
It works very well on carbon. Of all the cleaners I have used, it removes carbon better than anything else. One thing you should be aware of though, is that it leaves the bore totally dry. After patching it out, there will be absolutely no residue left in the bore. Im not sure how this would affect rimfire rounds as some of the target ammo has a wax lubricant, but I always ran a patch of Butch's Gun Oil in my bore afterward. TM Gun Oil works very well also.
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OK, what is "it" ? And what is TM solvent ?
 
deaddick: " It " is TM brand bore solution solvant avalibile from Sinclair shooters supply. It's a comonly used bore solvant, good on powder,copper & carbon residue.
Sorry for the missleading confusion. You can find complete product details where ever it's sold. Ed Longo.
 
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I have not tried Tom's chemicals but use one of his stocks on my 10.5lb rifle. I have been using KG 1, KG 2 , GM Top Cleaner, JB Bore Paste, Iosso and Lighter Fluid to clean the stuff out at the end. There are lots of way to get carbon out and many of them work very well. The more I use JB, the better I like what the bore scope shows me. Although, the KG 1 is pretty dern good with getting the Carbon off.
 
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Still recommending Yamaha Combustion Chamber Cleaner, best I've ever tried and been using it consistantly for over 15 years.
Take care,
warren
 
Warren: You are not the first Ive heard recommending an engine cleaning product for carbon build up removal in a match rifle barrel. Some bore cleaner's are abrasive, some contain amonia. Hell, some claim to be magic. Im not sure of the Yamaha type, but I do know some engine cleaners are very acidic. I personally would be weary of corrosion, especially if it were to get into the trigger mec. and or bolt parts. If it is corrosive/acidic and one was sloppy with it, it could raise hell on springs. But if it could prove safe, Id give it a shot. Just a thought. Ed.
 
Ed,
I learned about it from the guy who taught me to shoot a handgun, and like anything applied to my firearms (which cost a lot of time an patience to acquire) I tested things slowly. The stuff has a very slow evaporation rate, will not attack any metals I've subjected it to, and I've let parts soak in coffee cans filled with the stuff for awhile. It will lighten black anodising if soaked a very long time, and will dissolve plastics and stock finishes if your not careful. It is NOT abrasive, and due to the low evap. rate I haven't had a problem with even flash corrosion like some cleaners I've tested.
Just so you know, folks who have sold me guns and seen 'em years later have a hard time believing I actually use 'em, I baby my firearms, but I do shoot..........a lot.
Hope this addresses your concerns, take care,
warren
 
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Thank you Warren: As one who feels the same about his firearms as you do, this was just my thought in regard to something I had never tried. Ill thank you for being the one who gave a through & carefull evaluation.
A while back, I tried to test a few common liquid bore cleaner's/solvant's in a way that simulated lead & powder residue build up on something other than an acual bore. First I tried to scrub a cast lead bullet onto a peice of 400 series stainless flat stock, but the lead could not be easily seen, so I went to a peice of white formica & scrubbed the bullet to make a good smear of lead, then applied all the diffrent solvants I had ( one each, per smear ) noted how they attacked the lead,and how much effort each took to remove the lead. each haveing its own result, some way better than others. Then went back to the stainless steel and started burning match ammo.powder on it, enough to get a build up of residue,again used various solvants to try to judge how they attacked the powder burn product,and then again had greatly varying results. This did help me a little in choosing a product for diffrent applications & diffrent guns. Maybe I just had to much time on my hands.
Thanx again Warren. Ed.
 
We're evidently like-minded, I tried some home grown ideas myself awhile back.
A fella on RFC suggested a few household chemicals for dissolving lead that actually worked on a 41 smith's aluminum compensator, had to monitor it closely though to prevent its attacking the anodising.
Somethings I hear about bore cleaning do give me pause, like using Windex, Flitz, Break Cleaner, ATF fluid, WD40, etc, etc.
I've my own bad experiences for evolving to what I use now, but do have an open mind to something new, it'll just be tested VERY carefully.
Years ago a new/old world product came here to the states from abroad, the local sales reps were giving this snake oil the hard sell. Knowing I'm a gun guy, he said if I used his product exclusively I'd be amazed at how perfectly it'd preserve, protect, and clean my valuable firearms. Why any damage noted and they'd replace the gun, for free! Strangely, when I had rust form midway down my beloved Walther SportsModell Meisterbursch's barrel, they couldn't be found to "make it right". Spoke with the CEO and was given the typical runaround bs. Needless to say I'm even more careful now.
As a followup on my cleaning routine, I blast my solvents away with a high pressure air hose followed by applying Corrosion-X, my lube/protectant of choice. On high pressure/load bearing areas I prefer moly-grease or STP oil treatment.
Take care,
warren
 
Warren: On "high pressure load" or open bearing areas, I like to use a product called "super lube" grease. I believe still made by Locktite, it's got a high percentage of PTFE. Teflon. a small amount really makes the bolt slide smooth, and I like a little on locking lugs. Although there are plenty of new products made just for this, I like it,it stays put & its real clean. Ed.
 
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