best solvent for cutting carvbon?

L

LenH

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i have a barrel that has a lot of carbon in the throat and muzzlebreak area. what solvent could i use to cut the carbon out without scraping or brushing it out of there? i was planning on letting this sit overnight-any sugesstions? this is not a benchrest barrel but i know you br guys use different products for getting the carbon out completely. LenH
 
GM Top engine cleaner....old stuff works best. But if you have some penatrating oil around that won't discolor the metal....you can soak it and it should come out.

Hovis
 
WHAT HOVIS SAID.....any local gm dealer should have it in 16 oz can..aprox 8 bucks

mike in co
 
Marvel Mystery Oil is safe to soak overnight to should loosen up the carbon. Available at your local auto parts store. Also MM is a good for cleaning/swabbing out bore between relays or aggs. Does not disolve copper.
 
Len ...

i have a barrel that has a lot of carbon in the throat and muzzlebreak area. what solvent could i use to cut the carbon out without scraping or brushing it out of there? i was planning on letting this sit overnight-any sugesstions? this is not a benchrest barrel but i know you br guys use different products for getting the carbon out completely. LenH

No need to let your barrel sit overnight when you can have the carbon out in a few minutes regardless of barrel quality. And, no need to fiddle with caustic chemicals. Here's some information I've accumulated that reference the use of JB Bore cleaner by names you may recognize and a product I use often on my Krieger barrels.

"I personally believe in the use of JB Bore Cleaner... I use it after every yardage. 3 to 5 tight fitting patches with JB will get the powder fouling out... I do a full cleaning before I use JB and also after I use JB, to make certain I've got all the JB out of the barrel. ... Tony Boyer"

Source: The Benchrest Shooting Primer, ON THE TOPIC OF BARRELS, by Tony Boyer, Page 349, upper left.
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Krieger Barrels Inc,: Q&A

Q: Will a paste-type bore cleaner such as J.B. hurt a barrel during cleaning?

A: No. There is nothing that we can find that shows that it will harm the barrel provided you use a rod guide and refrain from exiting the muzzle.
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Instructions received from Krieger along with my Krieger barrel: Break-In and Cleaning, Under Cleaning:

"Abrasive cleaners work well. They do not damage the bore, they clean all types of fouling (copper, powder, lead, plastic), and they have the added advantage of of polishing the throat both in 'break in' and later on when the throat begins to roughen again from the rounds fired. One national champion we know polishes the throats on his rifles every several hundred rounds or so with diamond paste to extend their accuracy life."
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Dip a patch in the JB container then fold over and rub sides together between finger and thumb till small anount is spread around center of patch. If you get too much on a patch rub 2 patches together

Short stroke down your barrel, scrub big just in front of chamber well. Use a rod stop collar on your rod to keep the felt from existing the muzzle so you can short stroke effectively.

Since JB separates when it gets hot, stick your finger in and stir. Then scrape off as much as possible on the rim of the container. After that, use a patch to wipe off all of the JB that couldn't be scraped off your finger. That's the right amount for cleaning the bore.

J-B® Bore Cleaning Compound can be used with any cleaning solution.

We’ve tried this process, in an old barrel that was pretty badly jacket fouled, and it worked really well. First clean the bore with three or four patches dampened with cleaning solution. Run each patch through the bore eight to ten times, then leave the bore wet with solvent.

Next, wrap a cleaning patch diagonally around a brush, and rub a pea-sized amount of J-B® onto the patch surface. Run the patch through the bore fifteen or twenty times, pull the patch off the brush, and do it over again. The J-B® coated patches will appear to be covered with thin, black grease – that's normal. Finally, after running two or three patches through the bore, clean out the remaining J-B® with solvent on clean patches, then dry patch the bore. If fouling is still visible, repeat the process until the bore is clean.

J-B can be used two ways. Intermediate cleaning is done using a patch embedded with the paste. Preceded by using a good solvent and brushing. It is followed by "washing" the residue out with more solvent wetted patches, followed by dry patches, and finally a lube agent to take away the dryness. Lube agents can be thin gun oils, Kroil, NAPA Lock EEz, or Stan Buchtels colloidal graphite called Graphoil.

The second method of using pastes, and a much more aggressive process, is by using a nylon brush with some paste on the bristles and short-stroking as you scrub down the barrel. Again, precede and follow with solvent, patches and oil.

As to the products, the JB's have been around for some time. If they were harmful we would have already heard about it.

Another great product is Iosso. It comes in a tube and contains a slight amount of copper remover in addition its abrasives. Iosso also makes nylon brushes designed just for the short-stroke cleaning mentioned above.
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To maintain accuracy: "Keep the throat clean!"

With fine match barrels, ***"Carbon fouling is the real culprit."***

How do you find the carbon ring ???

1. Pull a NYLON bore brush back through the bore, from muzzle to breech.
2. You'll feel lots of resistance on the rod when it hits the carbon build-up.
3. That's where you need to scrub with Iosso or JB paste.

NOTE: we do NOT advise reversing a phosphor bronze brush through the bore. And NEVER short-stroke with a tight-fitting bronze brush! :)
 

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carbon solvent

Slip 2000 Carbonkiller. I have had realy good results with it.
 

nice quote...it great for those who want to do all the WORK...
the rest of us believe in better living thru modern chemestry.....a carbon buster...is almost no work...the chemicals do the work for you.

so your methods work...but so do chemicals ..with less work..and probably less time.

mike in co
 
Mike ...

I've got the time. And, I believe it's more "FUN" staying fully engaged with this benchrest stuff! :cool: Work? No. FUN? YES. :)
 
;)What ever happened to the great american work ethic?


JB works as fast as I need (faster than most of the chemicals I've tried) and a lil bit goes a long way; a jar lasts forever--therefore it's cheap, and------ SOME people can use the lil bit of exercise...........................
 
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;)What ever happened to the great american work ethic?


JB works as fast as I need (faster than most of the chemicals I've tried) and a lil bit goes a long way; a jar lasts forever--therefore it's cheap, and------ SOME people can use the lil bit of exercise...........................

some how i just have to question this.....

it takes me TWO WET PATCHES to get the carbon out....once down the bbl and out the other end.......followed by one or two dry patches....



one of the quotes is 15-20 strokes...just as PART of thier process.

so tell me....four stokes with jb and you are done ???

i never said it did not work...but it aint quicker...sorry

ps i own and use jb bore paste..but not for carbon.

mike in co
 
I'm mainly a belly shooter, so I have a different imperative - keep that in mind.

I clean with both Subaru upper engine cleaner (same formula as GM) & JB Bore Bright. I use the JB for copper removal on the occasion where its needed or at around 200 rounds, after I've removed the carbon. I use the carbon cleaner every match.

When I use the Subaru alone, my first shot is right in the group. The first shot after JB is 1 MOA low or thereabouts depending on how much cleaning was needed.
 
thanks gents

i have jb around the house to clean barrels. i want to clean a muzzlebreak that is built in to my barrel and would like to soak it. that thing is dirty. i dont want to ruin the bluing by scraping anything. the gm will be he first thing iw ill try. i have heard that the carbon cutter 2000 is pretty good also. lenh
 
John ...

I clean with both Subaru upper engine cleaner (same formula as GM) & JB Bore Bright. I use the JB for copper removal on the occasion where its needed or at around 200 rounds, after I've removed the carbon. I use the carbon cleaner every match.

When I use the Subaru alone, my first shot is right in the group. The first shot after JB is 1 MOA low or thereabouts depending on how much cleaning was needed.

The difference in your shot dispersion and Tony Boyer's is that he is using J-B Bore "Cleaning" Compound [one formula] and you're using J-B Bore "Bright" [a different formula]. :D
 
I recently gave Gunslick One Step Foaming Bore Cleaner a try.
The bore had already been cleaned as much as possible using ballistol.
The bore had been allowed to get very thickly fouled by the previous owner, who has little experiance with high powered rifles, so cleaning took quite awhile not wanting to rush anything and avoid damage.

Though the bore itself apparently had little or no fouling left in it, when I applied the gunslick as recommended a startling amount of black crud came out of the shoulder and neck of the chamber.
This is a .303 and they seem to collect alot of carbon and lead in neck and shoulder, which is why these are cut very generously in most Enfields, the cartridge being rimmed.
 
Tony has been using the non-foaming (liquid) Wipe-Out bore cleaner and then making a few strokes with a nylon brush. He told me that he hasn't used my JB lately. Also he uses a proper size brush with a push on bushing to clean the neck area of the chamber for carbon. He has been doing that for years.

He said he liked the wipe-out product so far. Sure didn't seem to hurt him this year and his cleaning goes much faster.

Hovis
 
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