Best bang for buck .223-.243 varminter

i am a certified savage fanatic, ive had three savage 223's and they all shot under 3/4 inch groups at 100 yards. i highly reccomend finding a good used savage, but another good option to look at it the weatherby vanguard line. I bought one once because it was a good deal. It shot very well, and as much as i hate to admit it the action worked smoother than any of my savages.

happy shooting
 
nhkuehl said:
I skimmed the responses and may have missed this, but all factory rifles aren't created equal.... all across the counter .223's don't have the same twist and won't all shoot the same bullets. I would start with the bullet I want to use and then decide what twist I need and then pick the rifle with an adequate twist. The typical Remington .223 has a 1:12 twist and will shoot 40-55 gr bullets well, but not 36 gr Varmint Grenades. A Savage .223 with a 1:9 twist will shoot the 36 gr Varmint Grenades and the 55 gr polymer tipped bullets up to 69 gr HPBT MK. The 1:7 and 1:8 AR's shoot the heavier 77+ gr match bullets. So I have .223 rifles with 1:12 (40 gr Nosler BT) and 1:9 (55 gr Nosler BT) twists. You have to do your homework on-line because the guys behind the counter at most retail stores can't tell you the twist or what it will shoot. nhk
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Its probably the best advice that could be offered. For me guns are like boats the bigger the better. I'm not real familiar with what the .243 requirements are or what the "bullet of choice" is. But i'd keep it bases on bullet requirements In .223 theres lot to think about. Multi purpose. I really like a 1:7 would like a 1:65 covers anything to 90 grs I shoot my 1:7 600ys with 77grs and its real predictable. I wouldn't shoot antelope with it.

Savage is very flexible, really easy to interchange and tune up. From the factory I think there loose as a goose but easily (and inexpensively) become .3-.5MOA 77gr shooters. Knock coyote down way out there all the way down to ground squirrels and a good 100yd/200 BR factory class gun. I have a BVSS 1:9 .223 The barrel seems ok but when it comes off I'll replace it with a .223 AI in 1:7 or so.

If I want to shoot larger game like antelope and deer I;d see what the .243 is all about. But it's a little more cost if you reload a lot. just guessing never priced .243 bullets and cases.
 
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Is the .204 less expensive to shoot than the .223?

In my opinion it is not cheaper to shoot the 204 ruger than a 223. The reason i say no it isn't is simply because i can get all the 223 brass i want or need for free. All it costs me is a hungry stomach. I work for the city if Charleston IL and i have my own Keys to the training facility because i built the it for the police dept and surrounding agencies. I spend my lunch time picking up the brass. They shoot remanufactured lake city 556 ammo by the truck load and they dont do anything with the brass, except throw it away. What i can't use i find good homes for. I like giving it to youth shooting programs and new to the sport shooters. So for me the 223 wins hands down on cost. I am not real partial to the 204 ruger as i have had way to many run-offs while coyote hunting with this round. Maybe they were bad shots but i really dont think so. I hunt with a 243win. that round turns them inside out!!! Good luck! Oh by the way buy a real gun and get a rem 700, no savage unless you like sloppy fitting toys!! My opinion!!! Lee
 
cost of 204 vs. .223

It looks like one of your main questions was which is cheaper to shoot. If you do not hand load it would be the .223 especialy if you don't mind shooting FMJ's. Not the best choice for yotes though, a good hollow point is much better. But even buying facory hollow points the .223 ammo is still a little cheaper. If you hand load then .223 brass is a little easier to find and generally cheaper than .204 ruger as for primers, powder and bullets it's about a wash on cost there. I shoot both and they are both great guns and fun to shoot. Another good brand you might consider is the CZ 527 Varmint. They make them chambered both in .204 ruger and .223 rem. as well as .17 Rem. CZ is making a great rifle for a great value. It is a quality bolt action rifle that you can get for a little over $500.00. It also has a fully adjustable single set trigger that can be adjusted to some pretty light weights allowing for some great accuracy without having to upgrade or do a trigger job. My .204 is a CZ 527 Varmint with a 6.5x20 VX3 by leupold and I've adjusted the trigger myself per the instructions with the rifle and it shoots sub 1/2 min at 100yd.'s easy. Pretty good for an inexpensive rifle. Good luck what ever you decide. Hope this helps.
 
There is always one....

Just a quip, a comment about the calibers, .243 crap, and G David Tubb. He also used, with some success, at some point in time, at some level, something in 6.5 x 55 Swede, no ??

Am I to understand correctly that the Savage 10/11 series may be re-barreled as a snap in, or is there a headspace finish that requires a gunsmith ?? Thanks ....
 
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Stevens 200 with Nikon scope shooting off a rest at 100 yards. Hornady 58grn Vmax over 43grns of IMR 4064 with CCI 200s in virgin Win brass.

The Savage barrels can be changed by anyone with a barrel nut. You can use a dummy round or go-no go gauge to set your headspace and then thighten down the barrel nut.
 
Flouncer

Barrel wrench and a barrel vise. I use a 4"x4" block of oak. Drill a 1 1/4" hole through it. Cut it in half and remove just a little extra from the saw kerf.
Put it back together with electrical tape and you have barrel blocks. I use them in a regular vise.

Changing a barrel on a Sav is just about as difficult as changing the oil on a lawnmower. Lots of nice prefit custom tubes available too.
 
Clark said:
I have a lot and have built a lot of 223s and 243s.

I would vote for: Ruger #1V 223. It will shot in the 4's and is safe to shoot.

Or save some $ and get a bolt action with questionable gas path with a failed case.
Get a Stevens and wear safety goggles.
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I have a Ruger #1V in .223 I bought new 10 yrs ago because I thought I would go out "west" and hunt varmints. I put a LEU. 6.5 x 20 on it (also new), , fired 260 something rounds through it ( in total), and the rest of the new brass from Midway is still here, (out of a bag of 500) after all these years. I really don't want to kill anything anymore at my age, and have been thinking of selling my firearms altogether.

The Ruger and scope are as new...99% would not be exagerating.
At the time, I also purchased perhaps 20 boxes of assorted sierra bullets, (which I still have as well.)

Problem I am faced with is shipping this anywhere, with all the horror stories I read about.
 
Joe,
Typically, you get more money selling the rifle, the scope, and the reloading components separately.

The rings can go with the gun, especially with Ruger rings.

If you don't want to ship, you can:
a) offer, in an internet post, to sell face to face [FTF] in your state.
b) put on consignment in a gun store or pawn shop.
c) walk into a gun show with a sign attached to a dowel shoved down the bore.

What you don't want to do, is sell to a gun store, pawn shop, or regular table holder at a gun show. They are looking to make a wholesale- retail mark up on reselling it. That could easily be the difference between a $1200 total and an $800 total.

When you advertise the scope, there is a difference between Vari-X and VX. There is also a difference between 6.5x20x40 and 6.5x20x50.
 
Clark said:
Joe,
Typically, you get more money selling the rifle, the scope, and the reloading components separately.

The rings can go with the gun, especially with Ruger rings.

If you don't want to ship, you can:
a) offer, in an internet post, to sell face to face [FTF] in your state.
b) put on consignment in a gun store or pawn shop.
c) walk into a gun show with a sign attached to a dowel shoved down the bore.

What you don't want to do, is sell to a gun store, pawn shop, or regular table holder at a gun show. They are looking to make a wholesale- retail mark up on reselling it. That could easily be the difference between a $1200 total and an $800 total.

When you advertise the scope, there is a difference between Vari-X and VX. There is also a difference between 6.5x20x40 and 6.5x20x50.
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Thank you Clark;

I went to the sites you sent , and must admit I was confused as to how to get something going. Perhaps I'll figure it out. The scope is a Vari x-111,
and I'm sure it's a 40, not a 50. I bought it new from the world renowned barrel maker ( and my neighbor) Boots Obermeyer.
Again Clark, thank you for the advice.

Joe
 
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