Bedding Tang on 700 receiver?

J

Jbordi

Guest
Does bedding the the tang on a 700 have that much affect on the overall accuracy of a mag. rifle? Can it contribute to POI shifts?

Thanks

Jarrod
 
My opinion would be to bed the tang and front reciever ring/lug area plus about a inch of the barrel or dont bed at all.

Blagg Rifles
 
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jarrod

I assume you are talking about bedding material under the tang? There is really no way to bed the sides of the tang which is not something you want to do anyway.

As Boyd said, yes it does matter. The tang screw will tend to compress the wood which will cause you no end to bedding problems and, therefore, accuracy problems. The best bedding for a Rem 700 is two pillars and no bedding under any part of the barrel.

JMHO

Ray
 
Jarrod, the way bedding affects accuracy is when you tighten an action down into a irregular or unmatched area, it literally bends the action. So, if the tang is not properly bedded, and the rear screw pulls it down to the extent that the action is in deflection, accuracy from shot to shot will suffer.

Pillars, along with a properly done full bedding job, is the way to go........jackie
 
Thanks to everyone who posted. I should have given a little more info. on my original post. I actually have an aftermarket composite stock with an aluminum bedding block. I have noticed that the tang area doesn't have full contact when the rear screw is tightened. I have already bedded the recoil lug and skim bedded the front area. I am hoping that bedding the tang area will help with accuracy.

Jarrod
 
Make sure that barrelled action is bearing evenly on that block. Take out any material that is covering any part of the block, then, I like to bed it all the same time to get an even adhesion.
 
If you have a dial indicator, you can check your bedding job by attaching the indicator to the barrel and resting the stylus point against the forend. Loosen off each of the guard screws one at a time. If you get more than .002" movement between the barrel and forend when you loosen off either guard screw, the bedding job isn't stress free. When I skim coat bed an aluminum bedding block, I skim coat it from one end of the action to the other after roughing up the bedding block and removing any paint where the stock will be bedded with a Dremel cut off wheel. It will have no bedding compound in the barrel channel and the barrel will be fully freefloated. Bedding under the chamber area of the stock always has to be removed when rebarreling. It doesn't help anything so there's no need to have it there. Also, the only place that bedding needs to contact the recoil lug is at the rear of the recoil lug. I use an end mill and mill clearance everywhere else (front, sides and bottom of the lug).
 
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In my limited experience with bedding blocks the action needs to be glass bedded into the block. This is done just like with a wood stock except that the bedding block needs to be roughed up with some coarse sand paper or dimpled with a small drill bit (1/8" should do) to allow the bedding material something to bite into. I used Acra Glas gel with aluminum powder added on the one I did, and accuracy improved from so-so to pretty good for a factory rifle. This bedding job is still working well after ~20 years too. This should take care of the tang floating in the breeze.

Make sure that you have the barrelled action leveled fore and aft in the stock using paper shims under the barrel at the forend of the stock if needed. Bedding blocks are mostly not level front to rear, or any other way, so it may be necessary to put a little bedding compound in the recoil lug recess too. Use surgical rubber tubing to hold the metal and stock together while the bedding compound sets up so that you're not bending the action with the screws too.
 
I use the aluminum prep for painting as a final step before mixing the bedding compound.

This is an acid etch primer and will give a better bond between the epoxy and bedding block I believe.

Before this I mask off the stock and blast the bedding block surface with the course black material that you find in outside ash trays at librarys .

Glenn:D
 
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If you think you have a beading issue you will be able to feel the barrel moving while tightening or loosing the front screw. If you can feel your barreled action moving while tightening the screws even a little you have stress on that action and it should be re-beaded. put your left hand on the barrel and the end of the forarm and work your screws. It shouldnt move, not even a little! Good luck i hope all is well!! Lee
 
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