Nez, If you've bedded rifles before with good results, you should have no problems doing these. They have a couple of quirks but all types do. The couple I've done were conventional stocks...not those horrible Hogue things that come with either molded in pillars or a bedding block.
I made the pillars .562 O.D. (9/16"), .312 (5/16") on the I.D and .075 short of hard contact with the bottom of the lug and the rear action tang. The pillars extend to where the factory floor plate sits and the pillar bottom is is positioned there while the bedding compound sets up. I let the pillars set up in the stock for 48 hrs. before bedding the action.
The action screws are M6X1.0. so you can cut the heads off some long hardware store bolts and used them as locating pins. On both, I did a two point bedding deal....bedding under the front of the action (back to the magazine cutout) and on the rear tang 'tab' only where it sits on top of the pillar area (behind the trigger). The short flat sides of the action and the round sides make no contact with the stock (minimum.020 clearance).
Recoil lug sides get .020 clearance and the front .040 due to it's tapered shape down to the bottom...less chance for dinging the bedding up with plenty of clearance there as the stock comes on and off for maintaining, etc. The bottom of the recoil lug needs to be solidly on the bottom of the recoil lug mortise. I don't like the action sitting on dissimilar materials (aluminum pillars and bedding) so that's why the pillars are made 'short'...bedding goes on top of the pillars. One important caveat here...because the pillars aren't in hard contact with the action, don't go cranking the action screws down to draw the action into position, for obvious reasons. That shouldn't be done anyway, but it's important to understand this when you have clearance between the pillar and action. A light clamp works good as do several other methods.
From there on it's pretty standard 'Bedding 101' stuff. Make sure you have plenty of clearance around the action screw guide pins. The little 5/16" O.D./1/4" I.D. flanged Delrin sleeves I use for normal 1/4-28 action screws work well for centering these M6's (about .236-.238-ish). Just glue the sleeves into the bottom of the pillars and drill them out when your done. Relieve the edges and parting lines when you're done and radius the top of the bedding where the action screws come through.
For action screws, both used screws that were flat on the bottom where they contacted the recesses in the bottom metal. I used button head Allen head bolts and cut the O.D. of the button head down so they fit into the recesses of the bottom metal screw areas. It's possible you could reuse the factory screws but the button heads give a nice Allen head for snugging down rather than the factory bolts screw driver slot. I bed the bottom metal to the pillar bottoms as the final step. This gets rid of any flex as the bottom metal is tightened against the pillars.
Good shootin'.
-Al
