Barrel thread for a Sako L461 action

Well....... I have learned a lot as a result of researching this little problem.

I consulted with an expert in Europe whose whole life revolves around threaded joints - albeit not with Rifles. He didn't do an analysis (and probably wouldn't without being paid), but was willing to offer the view that the sloppiness of the threaded joint would rule. A loose fit would allow the thread misfit to be accommodated but tightening torque should be reduced to avoid metal yielding since fewer threads (than normal) would be taking the load. With a tight fit, yielding of the threads at both ends would take place due to jamming before proper clamping force could be reached. A good compromise would be very hard to achieve. The bottom line - he didn't recommend doing it.

I also reviewed chapter 6 in Harold Vaughn's book in detail. While others here didn't see any benefit from doing a ramp thread, Harold seemed to like it because it did show positive results for him. However, he stopped just shy of recommending it for everyone. Harold's analysis of the number of threads holding the torque load was also interesting. However, I found it a little hard to swallow the distorted plastic model since plastic has nowhere near the yield strength of steel and would significantly magnify and concentrate any effect. Perhaps he used plastic to help his readers understand his point. Nonetheless, it is a well known fact that proper clamping torque varies with the length of a threaded connection all for the very reasons that Harold described. Shorter connections demand reduced torque and threaded connections longer than necessary result in no additional advantage with the bolt end probably "flapping in the wind" as one poster suggested.

In the end I decided to do my own 3d-Cad model of the joint and discovered a big nasty. IF (A VERY BIG IF) the thread mismatch were reversed, with the barrel being metric and the receiver being SAE, I believe it might actually result in a superior joint that would accomplish everything that Harold was trying to achieve through his research. I'm actually surprised that Harold didn't think of it! Theoretically, one could deliberately mismatch the thread pitch to achieve an optimum result IF one could get their hands on a lathe with an infinitely variable thread pitch (way beyond my meager means). That's because the interference would build from the end of the tenon toward the shoulder compensating for the tension expansion of the joint as it is tightened. I know that is a very simplistic explanation, but for those who understand my point, its good enough.

Alas, that is not the situation here. In our case, the pitch mismatch between the barrel tenon and receiver is reversed which results in even fewer threads at the shoulder end of the barrel and receiver taking all the load than normal, and the bolt end being even looser than normal. Tightening the connection to standard torque levels will no doubt yield the first few threads until enough following threads are presented to absorb the axial torque load. Lower torques can be used to avoid this, but accuracy will no doubt suffer to some extent for all the reasons that Harold outlines so well.

I might also do some work on a junk rifle to test double threading sometime in the future. Basically put two short sections of 16tpi thread on the tenon - one near the shoulder and one near the bolt face with nothing in between, and with the two sections of threads offset by slightly more than the barrel tightening torque would stretch the steel. (Yet another approach to Harold's problem.) But that's an experiment for another day. I mention it here only to generate thoughts and ideas from others. Obviously, this approach might also prove useful even in rifles with standard SAE threads in both the receiver and the barrel. Anyone who wants to steal the idea is welcome to it! Just let me know how well it worked - good or bad.

The bottom line for me right now is simple. a 16tpi barrel in a 1.6mm receiver is probably just fine for a hunting varmint rifle, but I am not going to do it on a competition rifle. Its too hard to get the joint looseness just right, and the risk of noncompetitive inconsistent shot-to-shot movement of the joint is just too high for my liking. So the hunt is on for some custom end gears for my lathe that can do 1.6mm threads. If I can't make that work, then I'll return the rifle to my customer and tell him that I can't and won't do the work for him for all the reasons discussed above.

Others here say that they have had better experience having actually done the work and having achieved satisfactory results. The proof is on the paper so to speak. My hat is off to them. But quite frankly, given what I have learned here with the help of others, I now have very very little confidence that I could be so fortunate at the level of performance that I am seeking.

Thanks everyone. Your frank views and experience have been very informative and are much appreciated.
 
But don't EXPECT your Sako to shoot in the 1's and 2's all day long, as you said it did before, as there are many br rifles that don't meet that standard and there are many variables that individually are more critical to that happening than the very slight thread pitch difference.

At least some of that was my point to others. There are MANY factors and some are more important than others. However, my concern was that this particular concern might be bigger than some think it is. I thought it might be similar to bedding - which is one of the biggies.

If you review my post a few moments ago (which was being written while your post was made), you will see that I conclude that it probably is a major issue - at least too likely to be worth taking the risk of doing the job.

FWIW, I don't happen to think that an accumulation of 10% of a thread across the length of the tenon (or 45 degrees difference from end to end) is "very slight". And as my analysis posted a few seconds ago shows, the problem is actually worse as the barrel is tightened down.

And yes, my customer's rifle was a rare find. And yes again, there are many BR rifles that don't meet that standard. But there are also many that do! Isn't life wonderful!
 
Susesquatch,
You know that after going through this thread is the only thing that I have learned is I sure wouldn't worry about a 16 thread barrel in a 1.6 receiver. You have not explained why it matters , whether it is a 16 or 1.6 thread. I don't think your expert in the old world is anymore smarter than the guys in the new world. If you lock your receiver to the shoulder, it is tight and not dangerous. If you "ever" get involved with real accurate rifles, you will spend your time watching wind flags, bag technique, and load tuning.
I appreciate you getting the guys awake about nothing.
 
Susesquatch,
You know that after going through this thread is the only thing that I have learned is I sure wouldn't worry about a 16 thread barrel in a 1.6 receiver. You have not explained why it matters , whether it is a 16 or 1.6 thread. I don't think your expert in the old world is anymore smarter than the guys in the new world. If you lock your receiver to the shoulder, it is tight and not dangerous. If you "ever" get involved with real accurate rifles, you will spend your time watching wind flags, bag technique, and load tuning. I appreciate you getting the guys awake about nothing.

You don't have to get nasty butch. I think I have explained why it matters "in my view". No skin off my teeth if you don't agree or if I didn't explain it well enough. We can agree to disagree.

If I knew someone in the new world, I would have been happy to ask them instead. "In my view", an expert is an expert no matter where they are from.

And FWIW, I don't shoot competition myself - I couldn't read a wind flag if my life depended on it. I am an old man well past his shooting prime. In my spare time I do try to build rifles for special people that with load tuning will shoot as well as the guy shooting it is capable of shooting. I've never done a Sako before and now it looks unlikely that I ever will.

I do confess that I had hoped that the discussion would be useful to someone at least and not just a poor excuse for coffee to keep them awake.......
 
I don't believe that I'm being nasty. I asked you a couple pointed questions without an answer. You are pointed in your "opinion". Answer my question about the bolt lug engagement. You haven't explained it in my opinion or the reason the 1.6 would not be fine at 16TPI. Your expert may be right, but how is he right? If both thread gauges mesh perfectly as to angle and distance between, what is the difference?
 
I don't believe that I'm being nasty. I asked you a couple pointed questions without an answer. You are pointed in your "opinion". Answer my question about the bolt lug engagement. You haven't explained it in my opinion or the reason the 1.6 would not be fine at 16TPI. Your expert may be right, but how is he right? If both thread gauges mesh perfectly as to angle and distance between, what is the difference?

Ok Butch, I'll assume you are not being nasty and humor you.

Since my explanations don't make sense to you, I'll assume that I am just plain lousy at explaining why its important. So rather than try again, why don't you just google "lapping lugs accuracy". You will also find that lapping the lugs is pretty much standard procedure in any custom rifle build let alone a competition rifle.

As far as the thread pitch issue is concerned, the fundamental problem is that contrary to your comment above, both threads DON'T mesh perfectly as to angle and distance between. With 16tpi, the distance between individual threads is 0.0625 inches. This distance accumulates across the length of the threaded section. So, the distance between the first and the 12th thread is 0.7500 inches (12 x 0.0625). With a 1.6mm metric thread, the distance between individual threads is 1.6mm which when converted to SAE units is 0.0630 inches. Across 12 threads this distance is 0.7560 inches. Therefore the accumulated thread mismatch across a tenon with 12 threads on it is (0.7560 - 0.7500 = 0.006) about 6 thou. 6 thou may not seem like a lot, but for some cartridges that is more than the difference in length between a go and a no go chamber gauge. It is also about 10% of an individual thread (from one face to the next).

If you get anything at all out of the short summary of my analysis posted earlier, it should be that this difference is in the wrong direction such that it worsens the number of threads that hold the barrel axial torque load. Again, I cannot explain that better than I already have. If you REALLY want to understand it better, I suggest that you try googling "what happens when you over torque a bolt". The info you will get by doing that won't be the same as this situation, but it will help you understand my point, because that is exactly what will be happening to the first few threads next to the barrel shoulder. The growing gap between threads as you move further away from the shoulder lessens their ability to hold tension which focuses the tension in fewer threads than it would be otherwise, and the tensile forces in the barrel and receiver metal don't counteract that misfit like they would if the misfit were the other way around with a metric barrel thread and an SAE receiver thread.

I've never been very good at explaining what I am thinking butch. My apologies for that. I do hope this helps.
 
Maybe this will help a bit better butch.

I cannot make a 3D computer model into a 2D drawing that will demonstrate the problem, so I created a simple 2D model to show the issue. The model is not to scale, and the thread size and face angle and tooth profile are different. But it is proportionately correct and demonstrates the issue.

Thread Misfit.jpg

Thread Misfit.jpg

The bottom half is the barrel thread and the top half is the receiver thread. I deliberately separated the two parts more than they would be in the rifle simply so the lines would not overlap. If you look at the threads on the left you will see that they are alinged perfectly while the threads on the left are beginning to jam. If you tighten the barrel threads (move them left without moving the shoulder, you will see that the fit on the right opens up while the fit on the left tightens up. The tighter the joint, the worse the problem.

Its a pretty crappy image after uploading, but its the best I know how to do.
 
Last edited:
why don't you just google "lapping lugs accuracy". You will also find that lapping the lugs is pretty much standard procedure in any custom rifle build let alone a competition rifle.

.......................................................

Well ................no.


just,





no.






If a rifle maker tried to lap the lugs on a gun he built for me I'd fire him.

no ifs and or buts

al
 
Well Al, the good news is that I'll never be building one for you! LOL!!!! Cuz I'd probably never build one without doing it!
Better news would be if you just go away. You're lke the securities salesman who charges 2% to buy & 2% to sell, but keeps saying "It is a wonderful opportunity. The P/E ratio is Great!!!

In other words, you understand a small part of things, but misunderstand so much else, criticize those who know more, then deflect by saying "I'm just expressing my opionion." Yes. Over & over & over... If you're just expressing an opinion, also accept that most of us don't much care for it.
 
Better news would be if you just go away.

Ok. I get the drift.

There is a click here that doesn't like to hear or discuss things they don't agree with. So unlike most shooting groups.

I'm too old to swim against a cold current.

Merry Christmas to all anyway and Good Bye.
 
Susensqutch,
Before you leave, please answer one question. If I have, say a 700 Remington receiver, and want full lug contact. We've been talking factory receivers so far. Say you put the bolt in the lathe and machine the back of the lugs perpendicular to the bolt body and then you put your receiver body in your truing fixture and do the same to the lug abutments. Lap if you chose. Put it all together and tell me what the bolt does when you cock your rifle. I won't ask you to google it. What happens? The rear of your bolt rises up and unloads the bolt lug that is now in the 12 o'clock position. This is the cocking piece riding up on the sear and it raises the rear of the bolt.
 
Ok. I get the drift.

There is a click here that doesn't like to hear or discuss things they don't agree with.
No, us in the "clique" don't like people proclaiming that something affects accuracy when it isn't likely to. There are too many shooters new to the precision shooting sport who come on here, and don't know what matters. Most are like the rest of us, limited dollars to spend.

Things that are unproven but interesting, such as indexing barrels, are openly discussed, and test results shared. People on the "yes" side don't make hard & fast claims about improved accuracy. People on the no side don't tell the the "yes" folk to go away. But you don't seem to fit that profile.

Aside from your attitude, the tip-off that you & some unnamed expert are wrong is the statement that your rifle, & apparently any so machined, will shoot in the 1s and 2s all day long -- if "conditions are reasonable."

We hear such statements a lot. Sometimes the guy is improving the tale a little. Or sometimes he shoots all day long, two targets are in the low to mid twos, maybe even the ones, but there are another two in the fives, with most in the threes and fours. But those don't count .. the wind was up. Or the shot was "called." Or or or. That's not how it works in benchrest. Every target counts. People are keeping score.

Now maybe your rifle is one of the very few that will shoot in the ones and twos, all day long. If so, it is very rare, and not evidence of any particular technique's superiority. How do I know" Go to a few matches. Go look at the NBRSA National Championships recently held. Oh, the conditions weren't reasonable? Well, then "reasonable" doesn't mean the same to you as to the rest of us.

Muzzle loaders have breech blocks. They usually screw in. Do you think the thread matters to their accuracy? Several types of cannon use interrupted thread, as both breech block and locking lugs. You think they're lapped in? The Remington 788 was known for a surprising level of accuracy for a factory rifle, again, a variation on the interrupted thread design. You think they were lapped in?

You don't seem to have any idea why certain alignments are of interest. Most of us in the "clique" do. And when they don't matter, as well.

Believe what you want, no skin off my nose. But don't come on to a site and try to get newcomers to spend their scarce dollars where good enough is good enough, and the money is better spent on other things.
 
Last edited:
Ok. I get the drift.

There is a click here that doesn't like to hear or discuss things they don't agree with. So unlike most shooting groups.

I'm too old to swim against a cold current.

Merry Christmas to all anyway and Good Bye.



No "clique," just an eternal search for truth over opinion. On this forum people who WIN tend to tout the things that make them WIN.

Pure, raw ACCURACY is spoken here.....

You've obviously never even been in the same room with accuracy.

I'm willing to bet you've never even handled a 6PPC let alone fired one.

Tell me I'm wrong? Maybe describe a typical agg?

I'm lissening

al
 
Olde thread, but very interesting. Marlin, Browning, and Obrien/H&R (at least) made use of Sako actions. I wonder how fussy they were about thread specs?
F1
 
I have been a journeyman Tool & Diemaker since 1978. Their is no ISO 1.6mm thread pitch (1.5mm then 1.75mm), 1.6mm is not on a metric pitch gauge and is not on metric engine lathe (non-CNC). I suspect someone tried to measure a 16tpi thread with a caliper and declared it to be 1.6mm, because the tenon diameter is metric (16TPI is about 1.588mm in pitch). I also corresponded with the head gunsmith at the former MT guns, who specialized in re-barreling Tikka M-595 and 695's and he assured me that they are 16TPI, not a 1.6mm pitch. Hope this sheds some light, Gort
 
No "clique," just an eternal search for truth over opinion. On this forum people who WIN tend to tout the things that make them WIN.

Pure, raw ACCURACY is spoken here.....

You've obviously never even been in the same room with accuracy.

I'm willing to bet you've never even handled a 6PPC let alone fired one.

Tell me I'm wrong? Maybe describe a typical agg?

I'm lissening

al

Can't we all just get along?
 
I chambered a few Sakos in the last few years and saw this post today and read it. Im really happy with the 60° 16 tpi threads I used to fit the barrels on the Sakos I have worked on.:cool:
 
Last edited:
A little off topic from this thread, but have any of you priced Vaughn's book "Rifle Accuracy Facts"? Amazon has it listed for $250. I guess that's the first book that I've ever bought that has gone up in value. Abe Books has it listed as starting at $371.76 and going up in price from there.
 
Back
Top