Barrel flush system ???

[Leeroy]

G'day Gents

I am finally going to try to a barrel flushing system for chambering barrels. I have most of the parts needed, Ie high pressure oil pump, tank, filter system, rotary union etc, but was wondering what is the best way to attach the output of the rotary union to the barrel? Considering i chamber a large variety of barrel profiles and bore sizes, i'm struggling to come up with a universal system that will work with all barrels.. I chamber using the "through the headstock" method so i have at least 3"-10" of barrel hanging out the back of the machine.
I see Gre-Tan rifles do a barrel flushing system but there is no info on the website on how it works or attaches to the barrel..


What does every one use?

Cheers
Lee

 

[Gene Poole]

I just use a short piece of vinyl tubing and some hose-clamps. Vinyl is flexible enough to fit a wide variety of profiles. A little soak in some hot water and it'll slip right on.

 

[Curious]

I drill and tap the muzzle end, its fast and makes a secure connection when sealed with something like a Dowty washer. You will be removing an inch of the muzzle at least anyway so it doesn't cost you anything.

 

[Leeroy]

Thanks for the replies fellas..

Gene, that's pretty much what i had in mind, although i think i'd need a few different size tubes to cover all barrel sizes..

Curious, threading the muzzle is a good solution.. The problem i have is that my main barrel supplier here in Australia, supplies his barrels at finished length so they don't have the extra 1" on the muzzle like most of the US barrels have. It would also add another operation/time to the job which is something i'm trying to reduce with the flush system..

Cheers
Lee

 

[Curious]

Curious, threading the muzzle is a good solution.. The problem i have is that my main barrel supplier here in Australia, supplies his barrels at finished length so they don't have the extra 1" on the muzzle like most of the US barrels have. It would also add another operation/time to the job which is something i'm trying to reduce with the flush system..

Cheers
Lee

There isn't much you can do Lee if the barrel isn't long enough, as for extra time, it takes maybe 3 mins to drill and tap a hole.

If your stuck with a muzzle you need to save then make the connection with tubing and hose clips, it will work fine and stay tight under pressure as shown above. You might find that silicone tubing will stretch a little easier than nylon if you need to work with different diameters but as Gene says, soak one end in hot water and nylon will expand.

 

[rputzbach]

Gene Poole

Do you have a list of the pump and parts you used. I'd like to build one Thanks Bob Putzbach. You can call me if you wish at 716-983-4778

 

[Rubicon Prec.]

I drill and tap the muzzle end, its fast and makes a secure connection when sealed with something like a Dowty washer. You will be removing an inch of the muzzle at least anyway so it doesn't cost you anything.

I do something similar, but a bit more precise. My set up, including flush system is balanced well enough that I can spin barrels 5000 RPM+ when set up for chambering.

 

[Rubicon Prec.]

The problem i have is that my main barrel supplier here in Australia, supplies his barrels at finished length so they don't have the extra 1" on the muzzle like most of the US barrels have.

Cheers
Lee

They really lap their barrels then cut them to finish length? Is that just something that manufacture does?

 

[Gene Poole]

Do you have a list of the pump and parts you used. I'd like to build one Thanks Bob Putzbach. You can call me if you wish at 716-983-4778

I use the same system for a general purpose flood coolant system when not chambering.

I use a carbonator pump I bought used on ebay. They are nice because they have a built-in relief valve in the pump itself so no need to mess with a relief and return system. Other than that, I use a 5-gallon bucket for the reservoir and the return drain from the chip pan goes through a couple of filters (just a rough chip collector layered above a finer mesh nylon filter stacked in a long funnel) then an oil absorbent sheet to draw off tramp oil.

For coolant, I use Hocut 795MP-RHS mixed about 15:1 with water (mixed until I get between 5 and 6 brix on a refractometer). The Hocut coolant is some of the best I've ever used. I've never had a problem with it going sour. It was recommended to me by my friend and mentor who was a machinist for 35 years and worked as the shop floor supervisor for a large machine shop with some 20 machines, both manual and CNC, and he said it works well with any machine that needed coolant. He also gave me the idea for the system. They had several home-made coolant setups using five-gallon buckets and Little Giant submersible pumps. That's what I used before the carbonator pump. The carbonator pump has less flow, but more pressure which is better for a barrel flush system.

 

[Curious]

I do something similar, but a bit more precise. My set up, including flush system is balanced well enough that I can spin barrels 5000 RPM+ when set up for chambering.

Can I ask what rotary coupling you use as mine is only rater for 400rpm continuous?

I run a manual machine but still can't see why you would ever need to run a barrel at anything near 5000rpm when chambering?

 

[Rubicon Prec.]

Can I ask what rotary coupling you use as mine is only rater for 400rpm continuous?

I run a manual machine but still can't see why you would ever need to run a barrel at anything near 5000rpm when chambering?

I am using a Deublin 1116-090-059 http://www.deublin.com/1116-090-059/. I do plan on replacing this one some day with one that can be run dry.

I have my flush system hooked up for the complete chamber end work. I clamp my spindle speed at 4500, but when pre-boring the chamber, it would well exceed that.

 

[skeetlee]

why so fast?? interesting..

 

[Rubicon Prec.]

why so fast?? interesting..

Sandvik says I can use my boring bar at 680-730 sfm in stainless. 416 is freecutting so I can be on the high end of that. I core out the chamber body with a 3/8" carbide drill. At that diameter, it would be 7028-7436 rpm for the boring op, in ideal conditions. My machine has a max spindle speed of 6000 rpm but I don't run it that fast often. I have spun up my flush system that fast just so I know it can handle it but 4500rpm is where I still feel warm and fuzzy about it.