Balvar 24 target scope question

4

404tbang

Member
Howdy,
I have an old Balvar 24 barrel mounted target scope. I like it quite a bit. When adjusting the objective lens for different distances, it moves slowly, with a fair bit of effort required. There is nothing binding, no grinding or anything like that. It turns, it just requires more effort than it seems like it should. Are the threads supposed to have any sort of lubricant/grease?

Thanks!

Greg
 
Greg;
Mine is stiff as well, It could be the lub has hardened over the years. Great Optical, but I don't use mine any more, just sits in the safe. When adjusting for different distances ( Parallax ) I always turn it out first and then back to the mark closest to the distance I want and then watch the target through the scope the last bit. Hope that makes sense.
Fred J
 
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Greg, you might put a drop or two........................

of some MPro7 gun oil on the threads, in this manner. Back out the lock ring forward, and move the marked ring aft. Looking towards the muzzle, if you're turning one CCW, put one drop on the threads past 11 O'Clock, and continue to turn in that direction until out of thread. Next, moving the other way, put the drop around 2 O'Clock, and turn CW. IIRC, that scope is fairly "open" (not totally sealed), so you don't want to get any foreign matter inside. Now, MPro7 is a very "wet" product, so you may wish to only put a drop on the end of a toothpick, then work the ring from one extreme to the other a few times before you decide whether or not to put the second drop on. I have done this on one of mine, but I only worked the marked ring from one extreme to the other and back, then put on the second drop, and after moving it a couple more times, I questioned whether I should have put any more on. You'll see the device at 12 O'Clock which is engaged by the rings to adjust for range, and I'd be careful about keeping material away from that point, just on either side.

Once you have one working well, then work on the forward locking ring. Try to accomplish this quickly so as to minimize the amount of time the opening is exposed, covering ASAP.

Sorry this was so involved, my shop is not heated right now, and I don't want to go in until tomorrow (MAYBE). So I was operating by memory from 4-5 yrs ago. HTH ;)
 
Many of the scopes are hard to turn the adjustable objective on. If they were not hard to turn it would probably not hold properly. Luepold puts a stiff grease on them after being sent in.
 
appimg_71043.jpg
 
That's a Beauty. Too bad they're so heavy for Sporter use. Fantastic optics. What action is that? Word of caution, there is also an O-Ring in there so what what type of lube you use. It could either dry out the ring or cause it to swell.
 
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Thanks!!

Howdy,
Thanks for the input guys! I thought I knew what I was going to use, 'til Fred J said that about drying out , or swelling up, the o-ring. Wouldn't have thought of that!

Brian, what is that MPro7 likely to do to the o-ring? Not looking for an argument or anything, Fred J worried me. Is that the best option, any others you would consider? I have never used that product, and I am completely ignorant about it.

ncnbrsa, I had thought about that, but I know folks used to varmint hunt with these scopes as well as target shoot. It is so stiff that there is no way to grip it hard enough when you are behind the gun to adjust it. Wouldn't work too good hunting with it like that. I usually just use it on rimfires, but there are a couple of centerfires I want to put it on too.

Stonewall, THAT is a nice looking rig! As a fellow left hander, what is that rifle?

Again, thanks to all for the info.

Greg
 
Greg:
Make sure you loosen the lock ring on the front. It very hard to unlock. Once you have done that the Parallax adjuster should move a bit more freely. Again, do you fine tuning while looking at your target.
 
Fred J said:
Greg:
Make sure you loosen the lock ring on the front. It very hard to unlock. Once you have done that the Parallax adjuster should move a bit more freely. Again, do you fine tuning while looking at your target.
Click to expand...

Howdy Fred,
Yep, I had loosened the lock ring. However, I read your first response again. You said yours was stiff as well, and it could be the lube had hardened over the years. I got the scope out a minute ago. Got it in good light and started turning the objective 'til I could get my fingertip against the threads. There is some kind of lube on it. And that stuff is STICKY! I don't know if that is the age of it, or if it is supposed to be that sticky, but I can't turn the objective as easily as I could on a Unertl I had before the Balvar. When I tried to adjust it last time, it was COLD outside. It really didn't want to move too fast then. I tried to go from 50 to 200 yards, I ended up getting up from the bench to turn it. I can understand not wanting it to turn on it's own from barrel vibrations, but I figured the lock ring took care of that.

Do I need to get the old lube off, and put fresh lube back on, or am I just not familiar with how it is supposed to be, and this IS how it is supposed to be?

No matter what, I LIKE this scope!

Greg
 
Greg:
Mine was mfg in 58. That's along time for the same lub to do it's job. I allowed mine to warm up a bit using a hand warmer, and it got much easier to turn. I was told that there was an o-ring in there to serve as vibration absorber. Any swelling could cause the ring to tighten up. I've never tried to take the ajusting ring off. I only used my scope at 100 yrds as it was too heavy for BR50 when I first started. I did have it on my first rifle, but it weighed 24 lbs without scope, so it really didn't matter, as I was stating out behind the 8 ball from the first bull. Went to Leupolds and Weavers and just recently the NF.
 
Not mine unfortunately -that is a photo I found on this site doing a search.

But an older friend had one on a pre-64 .243 in Quebec to shoot varmints .
The optics were fine.
The tapered cross hairs worked well.

I have a Balvar 8a , a B&L 4 x and a Balvar 5a .
The 8a needs repair -a new reticle from a very quick loan to an aquaintance years ago.:mad:

I would email Wally Siebert before I did anything else.


Glenn:D
 
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I believe I have the manual for this scope in PDF format, but I'm unable to attach it here.

PM me with an email addy if you want me to send it.

Landy
 
Greg, like Ballsitol, MPro7 is...................

non-toxic and biodegradable, if you haven't tried it yet, do so SOON. Clean any gun you want, patch it out dry, or wet, however you want, most do dry. Then let it set up for 15 minutes to an hour, you choose. Then go back in with a patch moistened with either the solvent (also non-toxic, biodegradable) or the oil, I just use the oil, even though I have both, and see what your patch looks like after 1-2 round trips down the bore. Interesting.

My '24 was rather easy to turn when I first got it, but got very difficult w/age, and I didn't want to throw something out of whack by twisting on something difficult that was supposed to be moderate. I haven't used it in a couple years, so I need to see how it's been lately.

I don't know how they're sealed (or not) I know when you are adjusting the parallax, if you back both rings out from the middle, you can readily see how the objective system is directed fore and aft during adjustment. I don't know if the MPro7 would have any reaction on an O-ring (dampener), but I seriously doubt it. I asked Parsons, I believe, about a cleaning, but whomever it was, they said there were no longer any parts available (I know) and they didn't want to run any risks.

One day I'll have to get a picture of it on the 40X. I'm thinking of putting the other on a Stevens 416 I have, (complete w/the original box) To play around with, then there's the Martini, which has some holes on the barrel, some of which MAY match up to some American blocks......
This summer I'll have to put up the hammock and give this some in-depth consideration....
 
Okay, I had to take some parts..............

out to the shop, so I dug out th' 40X, It was cold out there, and all that steel was able to transmit a dull ache to the palms.
I turned the front and rear rings in opposite directions, and they broke loose with little effort. Turned easily, too. However, when I eased up behind the objective system and tried rotating the range ring to push the system forward, it didn't want to move either way.
So, I left well enough alone. End of May, middl'a June, it will have gotten warm enough to move. Sooner or later.

The things I DO for you guys. Sheesh. :D
 
Thanks Guys!!

Howdy,
Thank you all for your help!

Landy, I appreciate the offer, but I already have a copy of the manual. All it had to say about lube was "None of the moving parts require lubrication other than that applied at the factory". Of course, I sorta think that applied more at the time of purchase than 40 or 50 years down the road.

Fred J, how does one go about determining the date of manufacture on these scopes? All I know is that they were made from 1955-1969.

Brian, I will try the MPro7. I have a 1968 or 1970 vintage (Remington told me both years using the same serial number during two different calls:confused:) 40x in 7.62 Nato. This was someone's safe queen. Looks just about like the day it was made. I don't believe it has ever had a modern scope and mount system on it. If you look closely, you can see where it has had a barrel mounted scope setup, with one mount on the receiver. But it is almost imperceptible. I have had the Balvar on it, haven't shot it other than with irons. Haven't done that in years. Gonna get it out a bit this year. It just looks "right" with the Balvar on it.:cool: I have had the Balvar on an old, custom BSA Model 12 Martini too. Barrel is 28 inches long, and about an inch across the muzzle. While it looked cool, I gotta save some nickels and dimes and get an earlier scope for that one. Haven't got to shoot that yet either. I just seem to like old stuff.

I got tickled at your description of the hammock, and the foray to the shop etc. I appreciate it, thank you very much.

Yes, May is good!

Greg
 
Greg:
Don't know how to determine when they were made, only that the person I purchased mine from, told me it was a 1958 model.
 
Hey, Greg, when you put that on.................

a couple things I do:

To get finer adjustments, I mount on the barrel, and ON THE BRIDGE. This gives in excess of 10" of separation of the mounting points.

When I'm finished for the day, I loosen the knob at 7 O'Clock (looking forward) which reduces the tension on the mount spring which forces the 'scope against the adjustment points. I think I unscrew it 2-3 turns, enough for it to almost, but not quite, come off the threads, maybe a turn shy.

I have seen and heard of these 'scopes having been abused, so that it is almost impossible to mount them on anything heavier than a Hornet, as the large disc on the clamping spring will no longer attain purchase enough to restrain the 'scope in recoil, and/or the slot is all buggered-up. (Its a shame how some of these get treated by those who haven't the knowledge, or don't care, because it isn't a "real" 'scope[receiver-mounted]) Now, I put the rifle on the bags, then compress the 'scope spring snugly in the rear mount by turning the head in, until it just stops, then compress the recoil spring about 50% or just a bit more (its on a 6MM Rem., and the recoil impulse seems a tad "snappy"), and I don't want all that 'scope sliding around. And, if you have a bit more compression, not only does it seem to stay where I want it to, but the groups seem to be a bit more consistent. Now this year, I'm going to get the hardware its mounted on cryo'd and see if there is any decrease in the vertical, but I never really let it get warm enough to change that much, if any, but, what the hay, anyway?

Just to clarify, when I set it on the bags, I tighten up the screw that puts Northeast pressure on the 'scope tube, THEN I compress the recoil spring. THEN.....I may sit down and attend to everything else. I do it this way because once, I...ONCE...I watched as the un-compressed recoil spring allowed the 'scope to go on a rapid-ride forward. Once was enough....

I just thought I'd let you know how I did things, because I like the old Owl-Eye, and I want to keep it around longer that I am, then I won't miss it. :D
I just thought you might find this helpful, as I guess in the thick of things many may not think of these things, I know I didn't for awhile.....;) HTH
 
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