Another toy to put on my rifle.

They are kinda neat to play with... but not especially useful for F-Class or anything else on a KD range. I have one of the ACI units, but honestly it doesn't see much use - you have to be at a pretty good angle and a pretty fur poke to have it really start to matter much. Mebbe I need to get up in the hills and do some more angled fire practice...
 
I have to give them a call. I can not figure out how to make the Horus plum to the rifle bore???? They may have a design flaw. If the horus could be rotated to "zero" when the barrel bore is level I could see that it would work like shooting down a pipe. :confused::confused::confused::confused:

gt40
 
Hey, GT, Thanks for the heads-up on.............

that sale ending, I knew I couldn't get to the place in time to get the MO to send, so I called, and they took my name and held one for me!! I got it this afternoon!! ;)
 
I finally got to check the bore to the ASLI™ (Angle Slope Level Indicator) and my Picatinny rail must be plum to the bore because it is perfect when attached to my scope. I never thought that the top of my action where the Picatinny rail is attached would be that perfectly parallel to the bore. :)

"Aim small miss small", :D

gt40
 
Glad you got one GT, I have one on each of my tac rifles and they really come in handy at times. I had a hell of a time getting the level bubble to match with my USO bubble but once it was set, I didn't look back. I actually found that in some positions I will use one bubble over the other... strange!
 
GT40, what you're considering IS a flaw with that unit's design. Both the assumed level, and the obvious glare concealing it.

Whatever level used must be adjustable, so that you can shoot a plumb line full range of elevation adjustment. It also needs to be clearly visible from shooting position -just prior to trigger pull.

The purpose of a level is not to look cool, show the rail is level, or the stock, or the action, or barrel.
It's purpose is to put your POA inline with plumb TRAJECTORY.
 
And a helpful hint...if you tape off the side you are using and spray paint the other half you can get rid of that glare.

Simple.
 
mikecr said:
GT40, what you're considering IS a flaw with that unit's design. Both the assumed level, and the obvious glare concealing it.

Whatever level used must be adjustable, so that you can shoot a plumb line full range of elevation adjustment. It also needs to be clearly visible from shooting position -just prior to trigger pull.

The purpose of a level is not to look cool, show the rail is level, or the stock, or the action, or barrel.
It's purpose is to put your POA inline with plumb TRAJECTORY.
Click to expand...

I think I am missing something. What I did was to level the bore by putting a wooden dowel snugly into the bore with about 12 inches sticking out the end. The ASLI™ (Angle Slope Level Indicator) was attached to my scope with the bubble on it and the B-square level on the Picatinney rail were both level. When this was accomplished I put another 10" carpenter level on top of the dowel and it ( by chance ) was level and the Angle Slope Level Indicator read 0 degrees.

Hope I explained this so you can understand what I did.

Is this not what you are supposed to do? If not please explain what I need to do.

"Aim small miss small", :D

gt40

PS: Thanks for the hint Tony Shankle.
 
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GT40, your slope angle is fine I'm sure. But as far as cant, it's iffy.
What you've matched so far is the rail to the ASL..

It could turn out fine, but you'll need to shoot a plumb line, with the gun at 'shooting level', full range of scope adjustment to confirm it. With this you might need to turn the scope a touch in the rings, and again match the ASL to the rail(if that's your shooting level). Then you won't need the rail level.

'Shooting level' is the reference for your desired hold. You want the scope's elevation adjustment plumb -with this hold. So you'll want the ASL to indicate just that [as far as cant]. By elevation adjustment, I'm not talking turret or reticle, but actual adjusting compensation. If you use reticle hold off though, then the reticle needs to be brought into plumb at shooting level, as indicated by your ASL.

I can't explain it for damn I'm sure......
 
mikecr,

I believe I have zero cant on my reticle when the two levels are plumb. I level my rifle on my table on my deck. Then I loosen the scope rings so I can put the vertical reticle on my neighbors house (corner edge which I put a level on) which is about 100 yards away. I can adjust the vertical all the way up and down and it stays right on the corner edge of his house. I do not think I could get it any better than it is. :)

So when my scope has zero cant and the bore it perfectly level and the cant is at zero and the ASLI™ (Angle Slope Level Indicator) indicates 0 degrees is this where I should be??? This seems like I am where I should be or am I still missing something. Boy this is getting hard to explain. :confused:

gt40
 
Yeah, I think you got it covered, provided you only use reticle hold-off for elevation correction. Now just make sure your gun actually shoots plumb at various ranges to longest.

For long ranges you may need spindrift compensation via cant, and don't forget to account for coriolis with the testing.
It's complicated I know. But cant is critical for single shot accuracy.
 
mikecr said:
Yeah, I think you got it covered, provided you only use reticle hold-off for elevation correction. Now just make sure your gun actually shoots plumb at various ranges to longest.

For long ranges you may need spindrift compensation via cant, and don't forget to account for coriolis with the testing.
It's complicated I know. But cant is critical for single shot accuracy.
Click to expand...

Ok Mike here is what I plan on doing. My rifle is a 6mm Norma BR. and I am going to Wyoming this fall to hunt antelope and mule deer. I am also taking my 30-06 for the mule deer and for antelope beyond 300 yards. I killed a 150 pound whitetail this past fall at 200 yards using 6mm Berger 105gr. hunting VLDs. The bullet went through the neck vertebra and then out through the leg bone so I think it should be good to 300 yards. Farther than that I'm not sure. As soon as the weather gets better I will start to develop my drop chart out to 600 yds. I also have a Kestral and an iPOD touch with the "BULLET FLIGHT" program in it. I will find out how the bullets will fly while testing.

As a side note I saw where someone typed their drop chart and put it upside down on the front pop up lens cover so when it is opened he can range then while looking over the top of his scope see the chart without having to move out of the shooting position. Seemed pretty neat to me.

By the way Mike and everyone else thanks for all the good advice. :):):)

"Aim small miss small", :D

gt40
 
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