Annealing - neck temp desired

F

fishbone

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Looking to anneal for the first time and need to buy TempilaQ paint for the neck and body. I read different target temps for the neck (650* & 800*).
What should the neck temp be?
 
Looking to anneal for the first time and need to buy TempilaQ paint for the neck and body. I read different target temps for the neck (650* & 800*).
What should the neck temp be?

I think you can do a search here and find your answer.
 
I think that the Hornady kit furnishes 450 degree Tempilaq. When we set up a friend's two torch machine, we painted narrow stripes of 300,400,and 500 degree down the body of a test case , from the shoulder to the head. After some experimenting, it seemed that we were getting the results that we wanted, with the 500 changed a half inch down from the shoulder, on magnum cases (7mmWSM & .338 Lapua) I thik that you could use the appearance of Lapua cases as a guide on smaller cases.

A friend who was doing smaller cases (22-250 & .223) using the Hornady kit with a single torch, found that my suggestion to use an inexpensive metronome allowed an easier time reference that allowed him to more easily keep his eye on cases during the process. He used a vibratory case cleaner to polish cases before annealing so that he could more easily see the color change. After doing many cases with the timer, he got to the point where he could judge the timing by watching the color advance down the case past the shoulder.

The best article on annealing, that I have read, can be found on accurateshooter.com, if you search there.
 
I would imagine that the dwell time would also vary with neck thickness. I have toyed with doing a little experimenting with "stress relieving" PPC cases that are about .008 thick in the neck. I would bet that If I want to not overheat the neck, and soften the shoulders slightly, that I may have to heat the top of the shoulder, rather than the neck, or the neck my get hot so fast that the shoulder does not have time to get to temp. With the thicker necks that my friend did for his varmint calibers, he had the inner cone of the flame touching the center of the neck. I have seen instructions for a machine that had it farther away. Also, the videos that are available on line show more distance.
 
I would bet that If I want to not overheat the neck, and soften the shoulders slightly, that I may have to heat the top of the shoulder, rather than the neck, or the neck my get hot so fast that the shoulder does not have time to get to temp.

Boyd, I concentrate the heat on the body/shoulder junction for this reason. -Al
 
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