Adding weight to Shehane St 1000 vertical plate or horizontal round bar.

[Trevor60]

Good Evening

I am currently 1lb under max weight and i would like to add weight to the rifle stock for balance and recoil reduction.

My initial thought was to use a piece of flat steel and add it vertically to the end of the stock before the recoil pad.

After some internet research i found several pictures of round bar placed horizontally the length of the butt section to add weight and keeping the weight over the ear.

Never doing this before i came here for your feedback to discuss the benefits and pitfalls of either option.

1) Is there a clear advantage of one over the other.
2) will using the plate change the balance of the rifle once it moves under recoil (even with the St1000) straight butt section.
3) does the round bar distribute the weight more evenly and allow for a straight back pulse under recoil
4) Will placement of the round bar impact how the stock tracks low middle or upper third of the butt stock
5) is there cons to either system i should be aware of

Your assistance is greatly appreciated
Trevor

 

[CMaier]

1" dia lead.
short and to the point.
1 lb is aprox 3.1" long depending on alloy

 

[Wilbur]

The first question you should ask yourself is how well the rifle shoots as it is now. I don't think adding a weight to the stock will make it shoot better but that's just me. If it's currently a winning rifle...don't mess with it! If it's not a winning rifle then a pound of weight will certainly reduce the recoil making it somewhat easier to lose.

 

[John S]

I've used lead shot mixed with epoxy.

Take the barreled action out of the stock, drill, mill, holes or slots where you want the weight and fill with lead shot epoxy mix.

If you are tricky enough the balance will remain the same, if that's what you want.

I suggest you try the lead shot before you mix in the epoxy. Tape will keep it in place for testing the balance.

The pit fall is drilling through the stock with an exit where you don't want it:-(

 

[tim]

If you want the biggest impact in the smallest space get a piece of tungston rod.
Years ago I had the same situation with an edge stock with the weight system, except the weights were'nt enough.
Lots of sizes on ebay.

 

[mr.big]

if my math is correct a pound of lead inch round would be 3 inches and tungsten would be 2 inches,,

since my PPC is .8 lbs light also with lead weights I may look into that tungsten ,,IDK where I could heat it to 6300 degrees though,,lead sure is a lot easier to work with,,

 

[EvanHo]

Very interesting topic Stiller. I'll have to say I like your technical series but I believe they draw enough interest that your original idea of one a week may be overload, but that's up to you. Anyway, on to stocks.

1. I asked a question about wood versus glass/carbon about five years ago. The answer was almost universal and it was that glass/carbon was the best to use in benchrest. That was already my determination so I was happy with that answer. I asked the exact same question last year and the preference had completely shifted. Wood was the chosen material simply because of what you said, it dampens vibration.

2. For some reason, rimfires are rarely glued in. I don't really know why unless it's just kinda one of those things that somebody looks at the other guy and does what he does because he shoots well. I do know of one glue in and it works well. I'm considering it for one of mine.

3. Carbon/glass tends to be angled and wood tends to be straight. I don't know if this is true of stocks in general or rimfire. I do know that Carbon/glass were originally made with centerfire in mind and if the straight bottom buttstock is a rimfire evolution, that may give you some insight into tuning a centerfire versus a rimfire.

4. The "tinker toy" stocks are a new one on me.

5. I like the laminates with built in color in wood and the cool paint job on carbon/glass. I think the laminate is the only reason that the wooden stock can effectively be used in BR, so it has to be classic or WA color and that's a preference. I just like the color. I have a really nice wooden one sitting in front of me with a little blue, orange, purple, and a few other colors right now. I really like it except it looks like the Florida Gators colors in a way. Still like it. The one I will shoot today is carbon and is painted very nicely to the point it looks black but actually if you get it in the sun, it has a lot of purple in it. I've about decided painting is a waste of time and money though and my other carbon one is not painted and probably never will be. I think the paint is just a little individualization anyway.

6. One thing you don't mention is weight. I don't think you can mess with the weight of the barreled action that much, so that leaves the stock. Assuming you don't have to worry about weight, heavy or light?

 

[mks]

Trevor,
The height of the added weight will affect the dynamics of the rifle as it recoils, though in a rifle that is already heavy, it may not affect it much. You likely have room to try the weight both high and low to see what happens. Some ladder tests with each weight location would tell you which is best.

Keith

 

[Trevor60]

Thanks everyone appreciate most of your feedback

The 1" dia tungsten rod seems like the right combination.

Assuming it is readily source-able i be looking to get a section to max out my weight.

Wilbur...interesting view point. i never lose but my interpretation is probably different then yours. If i am not winning i am "learning"

For my discipline F class and more specifically FTR the more weight in the rifle allows for less recoil and over the course of a day less fatigue, better more consistent shooting and higher scores.

As the Shehane ST100 stock is new to me (received it in August) I knew coming here would give me the feedback i needed to make an informed decision.

The F class worlds are 2017 in Ottawa and I am planning on a successful match

Thanks for the help
Trevor