Action trued

A

ArtinNC

New member
I returned the bolt lugs and the locking surface in the action on a old XP100 action . And I inked the lugs and it looks like I did a good job . But now the bolt don't close like it did and I only took a couple thousand off the surface . WHAT DO I DO NEXT ? Do I need to take some off the cocking piece ?

Thanks for any advice , Art
 
ArtinNC said:
I returned the bolt lugs and the locking surface in the action on a old XP100 action . And I inked the lugs and it looks like I did a good job . But now the bolt don't close like it did and I only took a couple thousand off the surface . WHAT DO I DO NEXT ? Do I need to take some off the cocking piece ?

Thanks for any advice , Art
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Without the action in hand there are to many surfaces in play to provide an informed answer.

Just a guess from a million miles away. You changed the distance between the cocking piece and the rear of the bolt lugs. Assuming,which is bad, you had some cock on closing before, you have now reduced the distance the cock on closing movement moves the cocking piece in it's detent on the rear of the bolt. So it would feel different as you start to rotate the bolt.
Hope that helps but it's still just a guess.
 
Dave Tooley said:
Without the action in hand there are to many surfaces in play to provide an informed answer.

(((((( Just a guess from a million miles away. You changed the distance between the cocking piece and the rear of the bolt lugs. Assuming,which is bad, you had some cock on closing before, you have now reduced the distance the cock on closing movement moves the cocking piece in it's detent on the rear of the bolt. So it would feel different as you start to rotate the bolt.
Hope that helps but it's still just a guess.[/QU )))))
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Yes I understand that I changed the distance between the cocking piece and the rear of the bolt lugs ( the clean up of both lugs and action was only .010 max ). I don't want to miss with the detent on the rear of the bolt , so can I play with the cocking piece to in increase the distance of the cock on closing ? I can replace the cocking piece easer than a bolt .

Thanks for the reply .
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ArtinNC said:
Dave Tooley said:
Without the action in hand there are to many surfaces in play to provide an informed answer.

(((((( Just a guess from a million miles away. You changed the distance between the cocking piece and the rear of the bolt lugs. Assuming,which is bad, you had some cock on closing before, you have now reduced the distance the cock on closing movement moves the cocking piece in it's detent on the rear of the bolt. So it would feel different as you start to rotate the bolt.
Hope that helps but it's still just a guess.[/QU )))))
_______________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Yes I understand that I changed the distance between the cocking piece and the rear of the bolt lugs ( the clean up of both lugs and action was only .010 max ). I don't want to miss with the detent on the rear of the bolt , so can I play with the cocking piece to in increase the distance of the cock on closing ? I can replace the cocking piece easer than a bolt .

Thanks for the reply .
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You haven't explained what your problem is.
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When I close the bolt it feels like I have a lot more pressure on the lugs ( with the firing pin assembly ) . And I don't want to wear out the lugss just closing the bolt .
 
ArtinNC said:
When I close the bolt it feels like I have a lot more pressure on the lugs ( with the firing pin assembly ) . And I don't want to wear out the lugss just closing the bolt .
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It's humanly impossible to wear the lugs out without the use of an abrasive. Even then it will function just fine.
 
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When fooling with finished actions, always keep in mind that when you remove metal from one criticle surface, it can have a negative affect on another.

Don't fix things that are not broken.
 
jackie schmidt said:
When fooling with finished actions, always keep in mind that when you remove metal from one criticle surface, it can have a negative affect on another.

Don't fix things that are not broken.
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It had one lug that only had a quarter of it touching . Now I have full contact on both lugs. Did that need fixing ? Or did that make any difference ?
 
ArtinNC said:
It had one lug that only had a quarter of it touching . Now I have full contact on both lugs. Did that need fixing ? Or did that make any difference ?
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As long as both have contact, I would have left the lugs alone. Maybe lapped them with a proper tool to improve the contact a little. But even lapping can give false readings considering the clearance most factory actions exibit between the bolt body and the action.
 
jackie schmidt said:
As long as both have contact, I would have left the lugs alone. Maybe lapped them with a proper tool to improve the contact a little. But even lapping can give false readings considering the clearance most factory actions exibit between the bolt body and the action.
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That I'll do next tine if there is a next time .
 
Just me, but .010” is a lot to take off. Generally, I take of enough to make it uniform and call it good. Normally that is <.005” combined for the lugs and abatements. If you have to remove more, recheck your setup.
 
Mram10 said:
Just me, but .010” is a lot to take off. Generally, I take of enough to make it uniform and call it good. Normally that is <.005” combined for the lugs and abatements. If you have to remove more, recheck your setup.
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I believe my set up was fine because only one lug was ok and the other was just touching in one little spot , that is why I had to take off .010 to get them both the same .
 
ArtinNC said:
I believe my set up was fine because only one lug was ok and the other was just touching in one little spot , that is why I had to take off .010 to get them both the same .
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I don't know why I'm getting in here Art but...... REALLY? ....... ya' got's ta' ask yerself, was that lug REALLY ten thou out of square?


I mean .010 is a ski ramp in rifle terms..... like the thickness of a cereal box!
 
alinwa said:
I don't know why I'm getting in here Art but...... REALLY? ....... ya' got's ta' ask yerself, was that lug REALLY ten thou out of square?


I mean .010 is a ski ramp in rifle terms..... like the thickness of a cereal box!
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NO , I worded that wrong that was total bolt and action , ok I'm NOT a gun smith and wanted to make sure every thing was square . And I'll bet that it will help on the finished gun.
 
And no one has answered my question what else do I need to do to bring closing the bolt back to where it was . Yes I can shoot it the way it is ,but don't want to .

Thanks Art
 
ArtinNC said:
And no one has answered my question what else do I need to do to bring closing the bolt back to where it was . Yes I can shoot it the way it is ,but don't want to .

Thanks Art
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It's very hard to give advice without seeing the action, but normally there's a small ramp on the edge of the lugs that first meets the edge of the lug seat, and a corresponding chamfer on the lug seat. Have those been diminished to ineffectiveness?

GsT
 
WSnyder said:
Since you haven't really explained in detail what you are experiencing I'll take a WAG based on what you did: You are experiencing more cock on close than before. When rotating the bolt into battery and near the end of the bolt handle rotation you are experiencing a harder longer push to get it into battery. If you take some material off the cocking piece you will get rid of some or all (depends on how much you remove) of your cock on close. By doing that you will shorten the firing pin travel (how much depends on how much you remove from the cocking piece). If you shorten firing pin travel too much it may have a negative effect on ignition (see this thread http://benchrest.com/showthread.php?101659-Firing-pin-spring-pressure-in-Bat-Neuvo ). You can fix this and retain full pin travel but it's a fair amount of work. If you have the knowledge, skill and figure out the tooling you can retain full pin travel and remove all cock on close. Most in this situation live with the extra cock on close rather than do all the work or pay someone to fix it. If you want to pay someone zfastmalibu has the tooling and know how to do what I described. I do it for my own actions but not for others.
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this is what I was looking for . thanks .
 
First task should be-
A .060" 45degree break on RH lower & LH upper aft end of the bolt lugs,then blended to a radius w/ a #4-$6 swiss pattern needle file.

Blend out 80-90% of the "Peak" between the firing pin cocking cam surface & the cocking piece "Detent" radius at 6Oclock in the bolt body.

A couple simple measurements are required.
Once "striker to sear hand off" has been accomplished.
Adding firing pin fall is far from rocket science.
Shorten the firing pin shank aft end & re-drill the 3/32" cross pin hole.
A couple simple measurements & Done.
 
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