Acra lathe report

Zebra13

Member
Gentlemen,

As discussed in an earlier post, I purchased an Acra Machinery 1440V lathe some time ago and after some trials and tribulations, have now got it up and running. As such, I thought I would post a report and some thoughts on the machine for any future lathe purchasers out there.

First off, I went with Acra based on the recommendations of numerous dealers I spoke with out here in California. All of these dealers carried and sold others lines of lathes as well, but to the dealer, Acra was the first name out of their mouths. Reasons sited were reliability, product support, and the fact that Acra has been around for a long time. If you pay much attention to the import manual lathe market, you'll notice new brand names popping up quite frequently. Most, if not all Taiwan machines are produced by 2-3 manufacturers to various spec's for the distributors...some of which come and go rather quickly. Most of these machines look almost identical from brand to brand, but the distributors specify certain details and spec's for their machines. This, according to the dealers I spoke with.

The physical appearance of the lathe is pretty good, with the paint being where it's suppossed to be and not where it shouldn't. I didn't have to scrape paint off of the ways or anything like that. While not show car quality, the paint and finish are appropriate for a lathe.

Everything seems to function as it should, and work smoothly. There is moderate gear noise...louder in some settings than in others, but I imagine the gear noise will diminish a bit with some use...take the edges off. I haven't changed the headstock oil yet and checked for metal shavings, but I will report on that when I do. The feeds all work smoothly and well.

I have yet to do any threading yet as for some unknown reason, there is no index mark next to the tread dial...go figure. So I have to come up with a little something for that. That is just silly.

The dials are decent...I wish they were a bit sharper, but for any gnats a$$ work, I'll use indicators. As they are, I can usually get within a couple of tenths +/- of where I want to be...but ya got to sneak up on it. I'm used to a DRO, so I'm not the best with the dials. Somebody used to dials could probably do better.

The manual, as seems typical with Taiwanese machines, isn't too shiny. The wiring schematic did not jibe with the machine...which had my electrician scratching his head. However, Acra was very helpful in figuring the wiring out (a bit hard to understand though, accents being what they are).

Once leveled, the machine cut a .0011 taper over 8" on a piece of 2" aluminum. That is with a freshly ground and stoned piece of HSS. I think for a machine this size, the max standard is .0015 over 12". So I had a bit of work to do, which was not a problem as the lathe has a slick set-up for adjusting the headstock to the ways. A bit of trial and error later, it is now cutting at about .0001 over 8"...which I can live with.

I was quickly able to get it cutting between centers at about .0003 over 12". And the tailstock seems to be repeating well to boot. Additionally, when I put a tenth indicator on the spindle and lock/unlock the spindle, I only get about .0002 movement. As is, the tailstock is about .0025 high.

One thing I am not happy about is the runout in the taper spindle. It runs about .00035. Runout on the spindle OD is less than a tenth, and the machine turns almost dead nuts round so it appears something went amiss whilst cutting the taper. Not sure how or if I'm going to deal with this just yet, or what to make of it. I may just use a sacrificial dead center in the chuck when I need to do center work...which isn't that often. I don't know...any thoughts?

The lathe produces beautiful surface finishes...with a slow feed and the correct tool, they almost look ground. I even got a nice finish on some 1018 cold roll (gooey crap!) that I was playing around with the other day.

The supplied 3 jaw runs out about .0015 on a piece of chucked up ground round.

The variable frequency drive is pretty cool to have...just a twist of the dial to raise/lower rpm's. I was playing around the other day turning a long piece of something down without the follower rest and getting some chatter. Just turned down the rpm's a bit and the chatter went away. Pretty cool.

The spindle is about 18" from outboard end to the inboard spindle face/chuck mount. With the supplied 3 jaw, it's 22" with the jaws, 20" without. Haven't had the 4 jaw on to measure it yet, but it appears that chambering through the headstock, in some form, should not be a problem.

So far, I'm pretty happy with the machine, but I do need to spend some more time with it, do some threading, chamber a barrel, etc., before I give it the final blessing. If this goes well, I will probably sell my other lathe as the Acra will do all that I need it to do.

Justin
 
You've got .00035" spindle runout!!! scrap the machine, or send it back for a refund!!! I won't use a machine with less than a half a thou runout!! P.S.: how do you measure .00035" runout? P.P.S.: Find a project and start making something.
 
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Great!

I've got to see it!

I'm already thinking about some projects for you.

Been wanting to show you a rifle I picked up.

John
 
You've got .00035" spindle runout!!! scrap the machine, or send it back for a refund!!! I won't use a machine with less than a half a thou runout!! P.S.: how do you measure .00035" runout? P.P.S.: Find a project and start making something.

Papapaul,

If I read your post right, I think your clowning me! If not and as I said, runout is about .00035 in the taper of my spindle as measured by my Interapid .0001 indicator. The OD, or hub on the chuck mounting face is less than a tenth. This kinda leads me to be believe that the taper is boogered...which I can work around. And, as you suggested, have gotten over this all for now and have moved on to making chips. If I missed the point of your post, my apologies.

John S,

Good to hear from you! I wish you would have brought some of those projects over during the last month or two. I had a vertebrae in my neck fused and was confined to the house, no driving, for a month. I was looking for low impact projects. As it was, I passed the time watching "Telemundo" and eating Cheeto's...which presented a whole nother' problem!

Justin
 
Zebra13, I almost deleted that post because without the tone of voice it could be taken wrong. I was kidding. The joke is that i have never measured the run-out on a lathe spindle in my life. Personal inside joke.
 
Justin

I assume you are talking about the # 4 or #5 Morse Taper in the spindle.

It's no big deal. It is probably within the tolerances of that particular part.

If you stuck a dead center in, it might not even run dead true anyway. Ever checked the overall runnout on many of the lower end, (price wise), dead centers. They are not even that close.

Come to think of it, I have been a Machinist for the better part of my 60+ years. I have helped run our shop for most of that time.

In all of those years, I can not ever remember using a dead center in the headstock. If I wish to turn something betwen centers, (not often), I just chucked up a piece of alloy steel and machined a center. That way it it runs dead true.

Looks like you have a good little lathe. Enjoy it.........jackie
 
papapaul,

Thanks for the clarification. No worries...no offense taken. I'm wound too tight, have a tenth indicator, and plenty of time. Drive myself nuts sometimes...

Jackie,

You are correct. I am referring to the Morse taper in the spindle. Stick a dead center in it and it runs out about the same .00035. I am very infrequently doing something between centers but when I do, I figured to do just as you suggest...machine a center. In fact, I've already made one and modified my lathe dogs to drive off of a chuck. Thanks for your help and advice.

So far, the lathe is working out just fine. I modified my steady rest fingers for roller bearings the other day and a trial run indicates that it is going to work out slick. I've never been too successful running anything on the brass pads found on most steady's. The workpiece is either clattering about, or it's too tight and about to burst into flames.

Justin
 
Justin,
Would you please email me inforon modifying the steady rest for rollers and where you get the rollers. etc.? I'd sure appreciate it. I need to do that on my steady rest.
email address is Owenshous@aol.com

Thanks in advance.
Kent
 
Zebra, you're going to have to machine a dead center, or take a truing cut on it, each and every time you set it up in your lathe.. It's not something you can take in and out of a chuck and have dead nuts, IMO..
 
Zebra, you're going to have to machine a dead center, or take a truing cut on it, each and every time you set it up in your lathe.. It's not something you can take in and out of a chuck and have dead nuts, IMO..

Pat,

Absolutely...I take a truing cut every time I chuck the center up.

Justin
 
Pat,

Absolutely...I take a truing cut every time I chuck the center up.

Justin

Put an index mark on the spindle and center............true the center one time and return it to the same index position every time and you should be good to go without any further truing cuts.

In fact, index mark every piece of removable lathe accessory and place it in the same position every time and you will reduce runnout and tolerance problems considerably..............Don
 
there are four methods to reducing gear noise, if possible, you can check your gear box to find out the possible reason and then, do something your think right.
1, to improve precision gears, the most direct.
2, increased damping, viscosity of the lubricant.
3, adjust the gap.
4, grinding gears, to improve mesh accuracy.
Hope this helps,
 
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