A trued Model 700

Next rifle will be custom action

Everyone's comments here with regards to custom actions is good advice to be heeded. I have several trued Remington 40X actions, sleeved bolts, etc. and the next venture will be a true custom action. The only thing I can say in favor of going the Remington route is that, if you don't have the initial cash outlay, you can perform the accuracy enhancements in incremental steps. At the end, you still have a trued Rem. action and the price will be the same or close to that of a true custom.
Chino69
 
I have a very expensive 40X. It started life at a discounted price of only $1200+ shipping and etc. Added a Edge stock, two new triggers, action work a new barrel. An then new firing pin and springs. The list gos on. I try not to add up the $. But I passed $3,000 a long time a go.


My Panda was very cheap. $2,000 with two new barrels. Rifles and barrels were all from Jim Boden. I got the rifle from the orginial owner who was always winning with barrel #1. It was a proven shooter.

The Panda has been perfect. Load it up and go shoot. Nothing to work on but the loads. I am now up to barrel #5. When I want to shoot tight I use the Panda.

The Panda can be boring. Nothing to work on. It always shoots. If the group is to big I have to take the blame. But with the Rem 40X "do it myself" project there is always something to do and something to buy. And if the group is a little large I can always find issues other than the shooter to blame. The Rem 40 is just plain fun. And I am always finding new barrels to play with.
 
Ya' know??? Odd as it is, I happen to agree with Octopus that a Rem project can be "more fun" ............... that truly good shooting rifle can be "boring". I took a 6PPC varmint hunting once and had it set up where the squirrels were all within 300yds. Boring :) although once the wind picked up it got somewhat challenging. (also it must be noted that beyong 300yds the 14twist 6PPC is wort'less as tits on a boar hog.....)


building a Rem from the ground up and getting it to actually shoot well is rewarding project, a learning experience.


That said, if you want to learn to SHOOT, nothing can beat a well made custom rifle. A rifle made from a custom action.


I'm an inveterate experimenter. I first got a true 6PPC just to use it as a baseline. I now use a 6PPC to try to learn to read the wind and to use on ANY day with ANY cartridge being tested just to baseline the conditions. I'm lost in any project without I've got a trusty Borden 6PPC close at hand just to tell me what's going on out there. A while back a guy brought an AR50 50BMG out to the 300yd range. It was a blustery day and he was trying to "sight it in". I tried to shoot it for him to see where it was but was lost until I'd set up a good shooting rifle next to it.



Now beyond 300yds it's anybody's ballgame and the 6PPC doesn't do much good. I'm learning to shoot the tight-twist 6BR for baselining at longer range. There's still plenty of room for experimentation at long range BUT........it's awful hard to evaluate stuff with those gaps in the flag readout. In the end I have to drop back to 100yds and a slew of flags more often than not. At least at 100yds with four flags and a Beggs Wind Probe I can sometimes SEE what I've done wrong! :)



When it's all said and done........I'll just betcha' that if the money's on the table Ol' Eight-legger will reach for that Boring Borden what???




LOL


al
 
What alinwa said

Al,

Could you expand on you comments:

"--You've got to polish the firing pin shaft and replace the spring. Probably have to rework the entire assembly.
--You've got to extend the bolt handle to gain leverage. I also rework the cocking ramp at this point, a labor of love, ain't NO easy way"

Are you polishing the firing pin tip were it goes through the bolt face or the shoulder / spring stop and the bolt bore? or both?

Are you blending and polishing the tool marks out of the ramp or changing the ramp shape/angle?

Thanks
MG
 
Weirdly enough, polishing the SHAFT of the firing pin dramatically reduces bolt-lift. By replacing the wobbly and prone-to-binding factory spring with a nice straight one and polishing the shaft of the firing pin and the ends of the spring, you'll find bolt lift to be reduced. I'm experimenting with the use of a brass washer on both ends of the spring..........to anyone who understands my point, help me out with this experiment??? Try this with me???


Also, if you're gonna' run competitively using hot PPC-type loads you must reduce the diameter of the firing pin tip to eliminate blanking. This requires that the bolt be bushed.


Re the ramp, yes to both. And often it needs to be re-hardened as well.



al
 
"Bushing" the bolt generally means that you've decreased the diameter of the firing pin but occasionally I'll meet someone who calls a bushed bolt one which has "Borden Bumps" on it. I used it to mean that the firing pin diameter is reduced.


Bushing the firing pin is a process wherein the machinist bores the firing pin hole out and sleeves it to a smaller diameter, then he grinds the firing pin to reduce the DIAMETER (nothing to do with the length) or replaces the pin with a skinnier one. Reducing the diameter of the firing pin allows you to shoot hotter or higher pressure loads like the BR or PPC loads. Shooting hot loads in a rifle with a too-large firing pin will result in "piercing" or blanking primers.


Do a search of these forums to see some of the bushing processes described, bushing a firing pin is a fairly serious endeavor.



hth



al
 
Yeahh I said "piercing" with "quotation marks" ...... :D ...... ONLY because it's been accepted terminology for so long. We're working to change that :)


Change takes time...


Mellow??? I wasn't gonna' light up until some hoser jumped in with "but, but, but won't making the firing pin smaller make it more prone to pierce primers?"

that was bait, you blew my setup :D:D:D


al
 
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