S
Superman
Guest
Is it possible to find an 8" 4 jaw chuck with D1-6 camlock that isn't a $1400.00 Bison? Can you guys direct me in a good place to look to find one that is affordable ($1400 isn't!)
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Here is a 10" for $150
Also a spider at the bottom of the page for a D1-6
http://www.grizzly.com/catalog/2012/Main/647
Or you can get a back plate (there are some on the above page) and the 8" 4 jaw from this page
http://www.grizzly.com/catalog/2012/Main/646
James
Also a spider at the bottom of the page for a D1-6
http://www.grizzly.com/catalog/2012/Main/647
Or you can get a back plate (there are some on the above page) and the 8" 4 jaw from this page
http://www.grizzly.com/catalog/2012/Main/646
James
S
Superman
Guest
Thanks James. I have the spider now. I was trying to find an 8" with a direct mount to prevent the chuck from getting any thicker. I like to chamber through the head stock and the G0509G is thick enough as it is. As it stands now, If I want to do a barrel shorter than 24" I'm going to have to fabricate an extension, even using the back plate spider.
K
kiwi smith
Guest
Thanks James. I have the spider now. I was trying to find an 8" with a direct mount to prevent the chuck from getting any thicker. I like to chamber through the head stock and the G0509G is thick enough as it is. As it stands now, If I want to do a barrel shorter than 24" I'm going to have to fabricate an extension, even using the back plate spider.
Here are a couple ideas you could try. Buy a reasonable/cheap direct mount 4-jaw and chop the jaws back to run flush with the chuck face. Be sure to get the surfaces professionally surface ground smooth and true.
Other option is to make a custom D1-6 'spider chuck' (or catshead, or whatever you want to call it.) The one i made here was made directly from a 35mm thick D1-6 backing plate mount (no need to add another 1" thick plate to the front of it. You can get away with doing this on the D1-6 if you get the 3" long set screws in the right place, but with a D1-4 you will have to add the 1" plate on the front.)
I'll get around to doing a post on the special barrel 'pads' at some stage........
Cheers,
Dean.
View attachment 12124View attachment 12125
I am building a spider out of a D1-4 back plate. We are hoping not to have to add a collar to the front but we may have to. I was hoping to drill and tap down through the back plate itself, but i think the mounting lugs are going to be in the way, at least on one side. Probably will have to add the collar then drill and tap. Lee
T
tech-shooter
Guest
My lathe uses a D1-4, and I had to add the Al plate to the front, as there was no way to get four 3/8" capscrews into the adapter itself and clear the mounting hardware. It still saved nearly 3" on the working length over the 8" 4-jaw.
Cheers,
Chris
www.the-long-family.com
Cheers,
Chris
www.the-long-family.com
S
Superman
Guest
Here are a couple ideas you could try. Buy a reasonable/cheap direct mount 4-jaw and chop the jaws back to run flush with the chuck face. Be sure to get the surfaces professionally surface ground smooth and true.
Other option is to make a custom D1-6 'spider chuck' (or catshead, or whatever you want to call it.) The one i made here was made directly from a 35mm thick D1-6 backing plate mount (no need to add another 1" thick plate to the front of it. You can get away with doing this on the D1-6 if you get the 3" long set screws in the right place, but with a D1-4 you will have to add the 1" plate on the front.)
I'll get around to doing a post on the special barrel 'pads' at some stage........
Cheers,
Dean.
View attachment 12124View attachment 12125
I bought the D1-6 Spider chuck from Grizzly but found that I could not hold/support the work piece as rigid as I'd like, even with minimal part protrusion. I've ordered a 10" chuck to replace the 12" and while it isn't much smaller, it is a little.
Can the parts of the jaw that hang out the face of the chuck be ground to shorten things without ill effect? Of course I'd surface grind them but was worried there might be some reason this shouldn't be done that I don't know about.
K
kiwi smith
Guest
I bought the D1-6 Spider chuck from Grizzly but found that I could not hold/support the work piece as rigid as I'd like, even with minimal part protrusion. I've ordered a 10" chuck to replace the 12" and while it isn't much smaller, it is a little.
Can the parts of the jaw that hang out the face of the chuck be ground to shorten things without ill effect? Of course I'd surface grind them but was worried there might be some reason this shouldn't be done that I don't know about.
No, there is no reason that this cannot be done. I did it and it works fine.
The only thing to consider is that there may be some warpage in the jaw bodies, depending on how they are cut. On my one i had to lightly stone off the high spots on the guideways on the jaws until they would just move freely. Resulted in a nice positive 'feel' when making adjustments, with not wobbly or play.
If you want a bigger photo then email me. dean@gunsmith.co.nz
Lee I have a Strong brand 3 jaw, D1-6 8", that will consistantly run out better than 0.0006" everytime. After finding this out I bought another 3 jaw to do work where it doesn't matter and keep the Strong 3 jaw for when it matters. I have seen the Strong brand on Ebay a couple of times so know they are available in the US.......Ian
Boyd Allen
Active member
Lee,
A friend made a mount for an electric die grinder that fits his tool post. With it and a setup that allows him to tighten the jaws at a specific diameter, he has been able to touch up the inside surfaces of the jaws so that they run pretty true. I think that this may be a very good idea, and cheaper than a new chuck. While I am at it, let me tell you about another friend, who has turned out some amazing work, given the tools that he uses. He has a Harbor Freight lathe with a 3 jaw on a backing plate, that is secured by Allen head cap screws. He drilled out the holes in the backing plate a little, and when he wants to correct the centering of a finished piece that he is working on, he backs off the mounting screws just enough so that he can tap the chuck into position with a dead blow hammer, while turning the chuck by hand and reading a dial indicator set on the OD of the work piece. Then he tightens the mounting bolts. (I know...I know...but it works for him)
A friend made a mount for an electric die grinder that fits his tool post. With it and a setup that allows him to tighten the jaws at a specific diameter, he has been able to touch up the inside surfaces of the jaws so that they run pretty true. I think that this may be a very good idea, and cheaper than a new chuck. While I am at it, let me tell you about another friend, who has turned out some amazing work, given the tools that he uses. He has a Harbor Freight lathe with a 3 jaw on a backing plate, that is secured by Allen head cap screws. He drilled out the holes in the backing plate a little, and when he wants to correct the centering of a finished piece that he is working on, he backs off the mounting screws just enough so that he can tap the chuck into position with a dead blow hammer, while turning the chuck by hand and reading a dial indicator set on the OD of the work piece. Then he tightens the mounting bolts. (I know...I know...but it works for him)
C
Chip Soles
Guest
.002"-.003" is about all that you should expect from a 3 jaw universal chuck when new. From there it gets worse. Keep the emery cloth away from a chuck if possible. If not, throw it in a solvent tank, and get a brush. I do understand about cost, but the "best" way is probably a 6 jaw Adjustru type chuck. Try to buy a chuck with removable top jaws that can be replaced with soft jaws, and bored to suit the job.
Regards,
Bob
Regards,
Bob