700 receiver bent?

J

Jbordi

Guest
My Kokopelli bars show my two piece rings being off vertically. The front ring is quite a bit lower than the rear. Is it possible to bend a SS 700 receiver by using 50-60 in-lbs of torque at the rear tang screw? The is on an a stock with aluminum block\pillars. Wouldn't the aluminum conform to the tang before actually bending the whole receiver? Should I bed (using Devcon) the front mount to make up the difference, or just lap the heck out of them?

Thanks,

Jarrod
 
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Rather than taking a chance on ruining a receiver the simpler answer may be to use Burris Signature rings. They use a synthetic insert and the inserts are available in different sizes so they can be used to correct misaligned holes, or mismachined heights. Using them it is possible to correct some serious misalignment issues. This would be a relatively inexpensive way to correct the problem with the potential of damaging the your receiver.

drover
 
Not bent

Your problem is that it is a Remington.

The top of these actions are shaped more like a basketball then a tube.

AND at least one of the mounting holes for the scope bases are usually not in line with the others.

Another problem will be to get the scope pointing in the same direction as the barrel.

Now after saying all of this I shoot a number of very accurate 700's but only one wears a factory barrel.

The best fix is to have bases machined while they are mounted on the reciever.

In my experence the back base is always lower than the front. If I buy bases with a 20 degree look down it just about makes them level. This BTW this why guys run out of elevation on their scopes when sighting in a 700.

Another fix would be to use Burris signature rings and buy the insert kit.

You have a good alignment tool....now you have to figure out the fix:)=
 
Bent Reciever ?

Have a GOOD Smith check out your reciever. Check to make sure the bases are correct.
 
Jbordi said:
My Kokopelli bars show my two piece rings being off vertically. The front ring is quite a bit lower than the rear.
Click to expand...

I think it would be simpler to use/bed a one piece base. However, that still doesn't necessarily mean that your rings will be aligned. You can only determine that after installing them on the base. The Burris Signature rings are a good alternative. Or lapping the rings. Or whatever. :)
 
Jbordi said:
My Kokopelli bars show my two piece rings being off vertically. The front ring is quite a bit lower than the rear. Is it possible to bend a SS 700 receiver by using 50-60 in-lbs of torque at the rear tang screw? The is on an a stock with aluminum block\pillars. Wouldn't the aluminum conform to the tang before actually bending the whole receiver? Should I bed (using Devcon) the front mount to make up the difference, or just lap the heck out of them?

Thanks,

Jarrod
Click to expand...


I have bedded bases when things are quite far out of whack and it has worked well on various actions. I use release agent on the action and screws, no release agent on the bottom of the bases in place with loose screws. The rings are attached to the bases and a 1 inch steel bar clamped in them rather than a scope tube. Everything is held in alignment with this steel bar and located by the loose base screws and when the epoxy hardens the excess can be cleaned up, the screw holes drilled for clearance and the rings then lapped. I use the higher base to locate the lower base... the screws will be lightly tightened attaching the higher base, the steel bar will then hold the lower base at the right height until the epoxy hardens. I hope you can follow the theory in this explanation... I have also used this method and shimmed one base for large elevation changes in effect making a stress free tapered base.
 
Thanks for the info. everyone. These are Leupold dual dovetail ring\mount systems. How are the Burris Rings on heavy recoil rifles?

Dennis, do I need to bed the back mount base also. Can I just bed the front (lower one) base while using the steel bar to keep in place while epoxy sets?

THANK YOU
 
Jbordi said:
Thanks for the info. everyone. These are Leupold dual dovetail ring\mount systems. How are the Burris Rings on heavy recoil rifles?

Dennis, do I need to bed the back mount base also. Can I just bed the front (lower one) base while using the steel bar to keep in place while epoxy sets?

THANK YOU
Click to expand...

I usually bed both... that way they end up in perfect alignment and if removed and replaced remain that way... sometimes I'll do one and then the other one after...
 
Thanks Dennis!

When I loosen the action screws I don't see any improvement. Don't know if the tang\receiver is bent or not.
 
Thanks German....

for that info. I am hoping that bedding the bases followed by some minor lapping will help.
 
I see lots of Rem 700s with the rear ring far below factory spec. And I have never seen one with the rear ring too high. Figure out how low your rear ring is and have that much taken out of the front scope base if it has enough meat to do so. .020" seems to be about the most common ammount I see, but I had one that needed .036 just to be level.
 
Bent??

I don't think your reciever would be "bent", it does take a little more to actually bend a reciever that you would think. Keep in mind, I am not talking about placing it in deflection, which is what a bad bedding job will do when the screws are tightened.

As has been stated, Remingtons are notorious when it comes to actually being able to bolt on a set of readilly available mounts and have them line up properly. Or the scope sit in alignment with the barrel.

Remember, if you have to lap the rings, you are removing metal. Since the rings were machined to fit the scopes body, it stands to reason that tey won't fit it very well after lapping. As a machinist, that has always puzzled me. Sure, they might be better aligned, but they will also be too big.

If the rings are any where within reason, the best bet is to just bolt it all together. Scopes tubes are really quite flimsy, the vast majority made from aluminum. The do tend to conform to what ever you place them in. It might screw with the optics a little, but considerring that thousands of scopes are mounted every year with no more attention to detail than simply tightenning all the screws, it shows how forgiving much of this can be.

As for action screws, if you REALLY want to see how good your bedding or pillars are, go to the range, fire a three shot group, paying attention to the exact placement on the target. Then, loosen the rear screw a little, and shoot another group. See if the group changes any appreciable amount. If it does, then you are indeed bending the action with the screws as they pull it down into any irregular bedding.........jackie
 
jackie schmidt said:
Remember, if you have to lap the rings, you are removing metal. Since the rings were machined to fit the scopes body, it stands to reason that tey won't fit it very well after lapping. As a machinist, that has always puzzled me. Sure, they might be better aligned, but they will also be too big.


.........jackie
Click to expand...

huhh?

I've lapped every brand I can think of, some to change poi by as much as 10 inches, and have never had a set get loose.

You'd have to remove an awful lot of metal to lose the gap and if you did all you'd do is scrub the cap on a piece of sandpaper to get some clearance back.

Kokopelli's and proper lapping or bedding is the only way to properly mount a scope. Kokopelli bars are like a borescope, once you've used a set it becomes clear what the fuss is about....

al
 
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