2 Barrels price of 1

Roger T

Member
With my economics being what they are :(.Would it be feasable to buy a long barrel (no taper) say 34in. have it cut in half (17in) and chambered in 2 different cartridges (same caliber) for a pair of XP pistols? I know that I would be charged with the fitting,chambering,etc. for each pistol. But would/could I save the price of buying a second barrel. Most barrel makers are at about $350+ for a barrel blank up to 26in length (never seen a discount for a barrel that would finnish at 16 in pistol length),then add $10-20 per inch after that. So with say $450 into a 34in blank I could save $250 on barrels? Tell me am I completeley off the mark and all wet or not. If you wish to PM instead of Forum please do. TIA
 
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Roger

Long time ago, in a Galaxy far Away, I used to convert Model 10 S&W Pistols to double action only target pistols, complete with slab sided barrels and a Bomar Rib. What I would do is buy a length of 38 caliber Shilen Barrel Blank, and cut the 7 or 8 inch pieces off as needed. Worked great.

For the XP-1OO, I see no reason why you could not do this, provided you can get a blank in the length you want. 34 inches might get into the "surcharge" area with many manufacturers.

I would go with a barrel manufacturer, such as Krieger, who guarantees that the groove diameter will be within .0001-.0002 for the entire length, lest you want one to be tighter than the other, as many manufacturers lap a certain amount of choke into barrels. If not, specify that you do not want a barrel with choke in it. In all honesty, many manufacturers might shy away.........jackie
 
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2 Barrels

Some time ago I got a double XP-100 blank from Hart that was a sporter profile on both ends with an extended fat (breech) section in the middle. I remember I had a lot of fun taking it to a silhouette match and telling folks it was a new concept in reverse taper for silhouette shooting. There was a lot of head scratching going on that day. Got 2 nice shooting 7 BR barrels out of it.
 
I figured on useing a 1.250 no taper 8.5 or 9 twist ( their both 8.5 currentley) 1) is 6.5x47 (6.5x222mag) 2) is 6.5 IHMSA
 
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IMO there's no downside and no reason to let the mfgr know. No "special attention" would be given to a barrel thus ordered.

My OPINION would be that you'd want cut-rifled and you'd use both ends for chambers, the middle would be muzzles. I give zero credibility to those who claim barrels are directional.

the reason for making the middles into muzzles is simply aesthetics, there's a good chance that the bore will be off-center in the middle. Using the middles for the muzzles allows you to re-contour to center of bore and the cut rifling allows you to contour without any bore expansion.

opinionsby


al
 
Al

I would order the barrel from the manufacturer @ 1.250x34 no taper.then have the smith take it from there . Is there an issue with the rh twist/ lh twist then ?
 
Don't undestarstand what the issue could be on right or left twist? If you turn the barrel around the twist doesn't change hands? Pick up a twist drill bit and look at it, and turn it around and look at it from the other end and you'll see what I mean.
Of course that may not be the question you asked?
 
The fellow who used to manufacture Rampro silhouette pistols used to do exactly that, buy uncontoured rifle barrel blanks and cut them in half to save money. He probably knows more about drill wander in match grade barrels than anyone, having seen for himself exactly how far off center the bores were. It has been a long time ago, but at the time, he said that the cut barrels were better in this regard.
 
:eek: Not my best thinking morning. NEED MORE COFFEE:D

Ohhhhh, I LOVE your candor :D I do that sort of thinking every day! Does coffee help??? I dunno but I go through a couple pots a day......

And I draw lots of pictures.

LOL


al
 
Another question

These are in the factory mid grip stocks.I plan on changing to rear grip stocks. Any recomondations as to stock makers ? A nice flat 2.5-3 in forearm would be nice.
 
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