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Hey Steve, there's no war! Just a little friendly banter.;) Jerry didn't say everyone's brass, I think he just meant for him & me.........C'mon, not even for a free cutter? Now you have a bunch of info to consider.......best of luck getting your tool to dance with you again. -Dave-:)

Yep. The "proper" rake for brass is zero, and is sometimes even run at negative angles....even on the lathe. And as Jay says, especially drills...they'll snatch a brass part out of your vise or chuck in the blink of an eye! And maybe it'll even hit you in the eye. Jerry, I figured "What the...

Here is how the edge can be degraded by stoning (I borrowed it from your earlier post): "Honing the cutting edge after it is clean with a hard Arkansas stone being careful to make sure the edge geometry is not changed by honing. If this does not work, you can hone the BUE off. It's just more...

I haven't seen the cutting tool that is used in the Pumpkin, but if it is a HSS tool without a chip breaker I doubt very much you'll chip the edge if you use a soft material to pop the build up off of the tool. I also doubt that the tool will cut as well if you stone it off...if you don't use a...

You might be able to clear your "Built-up edge" by prying it off with something soft like an old bullet or a case head. If you have to, scrape it off from the side opposite the cutting edge with a utility knife or something similar.....but be careful of the cutting edge! Getting a build up like...

Butch, aren't true LV blanks 1.200 at the breech? I've heard the "Hunter taper is stiffer than a LV taper" arguement before, and it makes sense to me. I'm just not convinced that a true LV isn't stiff enough, even if you use a minimum amount of the straight cylinder end. I believe a good barrel...

Newby guy..............Here's the deal on the pins: Deltronic is not a type of gage pin, it is a brand name. They're good stuff, for sure, but are totally unnecessary. If you use a pin you pick up a point in space well beyond where the "business" ends of the barrel fall....while the important...

Try heating the head of the screw with a soldering iron. As long as the scope tube stays cool enough to touch you shouldn't hurt anything. I haven't had any that I couldn't remove by heating them and turning with a close-fitting driver....provided the heads weren't already mangled and rounded...

Conditions today were pretty strong; it was easy to get pushed across the X or hold out too much. It wasn't an easy day by any means...........there were a number of good shooters on the line and no one exceeded 21X. Congratulations Julia on a well-earned win. -Dave-:)

Henrya, We could look up the coefficient of expansion of aluminum and figure it out, but I think anyone who has cut a case with a room temperature K&M tool and continued on to cut just a half-dozen cases non-stop will tell you the wall thickness increases by 2 or 3 tenths. All it takes to...

When I was getting started in BR in '95 Lapua 220 russian cases were $1.05 apiece............and no, that doesn't justify the increases, but it sure is a thinker. BTW, those cases didn't snug up nearly as fast as as the ones since they disappeared for a while and came back out in the .40-some...

If the mandrel is heating up because of too tight of a fit, I agree that hand turning would reduce the heat. The real likely culpret, though, is that the fit is too tight. Fix the expander/mandrel relationship and the excess heating should go away, and he can continue to turn his cases under...

Al, I guess I see what you mean...............I have to lay the tool on the block, make sure I take it off before I answer the phone or go take a whiz, and remember to pick it back up before I make another cut...WOW.........................and then theres that 5 minutes to take the mandrel out...

The increase in wall thickness is because the tool body grows as it warms, just as others have said. The K&M tools are great; I have several and wouldn't part with them. Just like most things, though, we have to dance with it in order to get the best possible results. My approach is a little...

I should have stated this as concentricity.......I was considering that we're dealing with 2 cylindrical features. Cylindricity actually is used to refer to a single cylindrical feature. -Dave-:)

A stress riser can be a possible fracture point. -Dave-:)

Yes, because it would ensure cylindricity between the inside and outside threads. -Dave-:)

You're about right. If you are wondering about safety, and why the action makers have settled on the current diameters for assemblies without a bushing, consider also that the root of each thread is a continuous stress riser spiraling from one end to the other...both inside and out...and that...

Try using a smaller brush. Push a 6 or 7 mm brush into the neck area......the bristles won't lay down as much as the big 45 brush did, and should grab the case pretty well. If that doesn't do it, take the barrel off and find a tap size that will allow a small cut and run it in a few turns...