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I don't see any reason why you can't other than there could be a slight color variation. Instead of going through the trouble of making one...order one from Harrells for $30 shipped. Hardly worth powering on the machines to make one....

Justin, very nice job on the blocks. Unfortunately, my New Hermes is a pretty compact model and can't accommodate v block jaws in the original vise. I'm able to do barrels, dies and can put my factory vise back in without removing my barrel v block table if I need to engrave a flat plate or...

No CNC...all HIGH tech manual pantograph. Works great!

That sucks. Diamond tooling is very brittle. I used to cut RC motor commutators on a comm lathe and a diamond bit was the defacto standard. They made the best mirror finish on brass comms. They chipped super easy if not careful and don't dare lend it out!

I was finally able to get a vee block table made and mounted to my New Hermes. I got a 130 degree diamond drag from J&M Diamond Tool. Just waiting for a set of font clamps to come. Everything seem is working very well. The vee block and clamp really holds the barrel in tight. I did a...

Thanks Dave, i'll have to order one of those...

Jerry, Here is the copy I made out of a piece of barrel and 303 for the handle. The handle clears the lathe bed. There is about .020" clearance between the reamer and the pusher hole. Works great.

I know what you mean...I thought about modifying the one I had too, but sold it instead. Made a pusher out of a piece of barrel and a 303 rod for a handle. 20 minutes and didn't cost me anything!

Yeah, pushing with a saddle on a manual lathe would not work out very well, at least IMO. Controlling the depth would be a pain as well as using the handwheel to force the reamer inward. I made a super simple pusher and reamer handle and the pusher is held in the tail stock with my drill...

Jerry, that definitely makes sense. I am on the same thought about tailstock alignment. I try to keep mine aligned as best as I can. I definitely would not trust holding a reamer or pushing with a center. I made myself a simple pusher and works fabulous. Do you use a loupe to look inside...

Another thing, does running a long point indicator inside the finished chamber at random areas a meaningful test? Shoulder, neck, leade area?

Thanks Dusty

Thanks Jerry! If they are not the same, what are the typical causes? Improper reamer pilot? Crooked bore pulling it?

Sure, post em up. I will eventually need to hold a die to engrave as well. I have a bunch of 3/4" x 4" 6061 plate that I can use for my vee blocks and mount.

I have a rotary spindle and want to use a diamond drag. Do I need to lock the spindle to use a drag stylus?

Jay, I have a question regarding your vee blocks. Did you make the muzzle side vee block higher to compensate for barrel taper? I will be working on a set up for my engraver soon.

What are some of your post chamber procedures to check your work?

Very interesting Joe. You need to take a video of that CNC cutting a chamber...

The instructions are printed on the bottle.

Lee, its a T10248. 5mm shank. They make another that is similar but larger shanked. http://www.grizzly.com/products/Solid-Carbide-Mini-Boring-Bar-5mm-Shank-Right-hand/T10248