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I do both ends to index. Once I'm ready to make chips, the breach is all I worry about. Then after I prebore, I reach back in and dial in the throat area if needed, then cut the chamber. I'm sure there are hundreds of methods. Some good, some not so good. I've only chambered a handful of...

**Opinions may vary** Dialing both sides allow you to index the curvature of the bore. This is way more common in doing a long range benchrest barrel. I dial in with a long stem Interapid indicator and index. So far, I am extremely satisfied with how my barrels shoot and the success I've...

I've heard it was just internal lubricant from the erector tube dripping on a lens inside. They are taking care of anyone having the issue. No ETA on fix...

+1 on the that. Brass plus lapping compound gives me the chills thinking about it, lol

I think what he is looking to do is make a small chamfer at the bore, not an entire 60 degree crown. That would be one wicked tapered crown, lol. Certainly, it will work to chamfer the bore.

I thought you were referring to a hand held barrel spinner and belt sander....

Just out of curiosity, what don't you like about a barrel spinner? Once you get a feel for one, they work pretty darn slick.

This here is pretty cool too... Threading at 400 RPM using a fabricated threadding clutch. http://www.hobby-machinist.com/showthread.php/20196-Threading-at-400-RPM?p=172690&viewfull=1#post172690

I'd go with the factory stand. It looks pretty stout at 300 lbs. By the time you add tooling in the drawers, you pick up a few hundred pounds. Plus its easy to level up the bed with the feet. Looks like a pretty nice machine! What I don't understand...how come they didn't got with at least...

I had placed an order for a 6mm UNI throater and what I got instead was just a standard throating reamer. How does this type of reamer get used? There is no stop or collar to support the back end? Is this thing supposed to be chucked in the tailstock solid and then run in? Its definitely not...

PTG--$40-$50 more

I'm sure it varies from one mfg to another. I found a pdf from a drill rod mfg and they color code as follows... W1-Red O1-Yellow A2-Blue

So its not so brittle. If it gets dropped or a case hits it at an angle from not being fully seated in a shell holder, it may snap easy. Not a big deal tempering. Not sure if you can. Mine are painted yellow on the end, but could be a specific mfg color. I'm sure the color is just to...

Now you are taking about getting into some serious work. Crank the tailstock quill in and out to expand 100 cases? Then when a tight one pulls the chuck out of the MT? LOL. I'll stick with the mandrel and a press. As for hardening, why wouldn't you? It takes the abuse as a sizing die...

Really, not much effort. Took me just as long to clean up as it did making it. Quite easy. Not sure how I would attach a pin gauge to the K&M mandrel holder? I have $5 in a 36" oil hardening drill rod and can make a lot of mandrels with it... I'm sure is changed some sort, but nothing...

This is my first time I hardened and tempered anything and it all came out pretty darn nice and VERY easy to do. I needed a larger mandrel that was a few tenths bigger than what I had. I started with 5/16 oil hardening drill rod. Did all the machine work and polished the finished sized area...

That's what I was debating, direct mount or adapter plate on my next 4 jaw. The 10" I have now is direct and couldn't imagine another inch dangling off the spindle...

Yep, I agree totally with you Ian. The more I use my set tru, the more I like it! I don't know about other adjustable chucks, but my Bison has three heavy front locking screws and the set screws are at least 1/2 in size. I think the large set screws have a big advantage over other adjustable...

Harrells is about the best route and make your seater with your reamer.

Is he banned for life? I don't see him stooling around on 6BR either....