Best method to cut barrel before chambering

M

Markhor

Guest
What is the recommended method of getting it done without causing a lot of heat. I have seen it done with a bandsaw with the lathe running backwards. Is this a good way or is their another method without going to a coolent using saw.

Thanks
Ed
 
I part them off in a Lathe all the time, leaving about 1/4 inch to face.

To the OP, don't use a carbide parting tool. Use a reasonable RPM, a sharp high speed steel tool and a good cutting oil.
 
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jackie schmidt said:
I part them off in a Lathe all the time, leaving about 1/4 inch to face.

To the OP, don't use a carbide parting tool. Use a reasonable RPM, a sharp high speed steel tool and a good cutting oil.
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THIS.

And use plenty of oil.

Carbide is NOT for fine finish work.

It is for larger faster cuts. on solid equipment and setups.
 
jackie schmidt said:
I part them off in a Lathe all the time, leaving about 1/4 inch to face.

To the OP, don't use a carbide parting tool. Use a reasonable RPM, a sharp high speed steel tool and a good cutting oil.
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Thanks Jackie, what RPMs would you recommend for HHS

Ed
 
Markhor said:
Thanks Jackie, what RPMs would you recommend for HHS

Ed
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On Barrel diameters, about 100 will work fine with a 1/8 wide parting tool on your typical small gunsmith Lathe. Run it just a few thousandths below center so it won't dig in.

If you have to go slower, just feed it in accordance. The secret to a parting tool is to keep it cutting with a steady pressure.
 
On these small tool room size lathes use the lantern tool post with a square tool steel base rather than the lantern rocker base. This gives a more rigid setup than using a Aloris style tool holder.

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JerrySharrett said:
On these small tool room size lathes use the lantern tool post with a square tool steel base rather than the lantern rocker base. This gives a more rigid setup than using a Aloris style tool holder.

.
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I have never had any problem using an actual Aloris holder.

I have seen problems with the cheaper 'piston' style holder though.

The dovetail ones are solid as a rock when installed correctly.
 
brickeyee said:
I have never had any problem using an actual Aloris holder.

I have seen problems with the cheaper 'piston' style holder though.

The dovetail ones are solid as a rock when installed correctly.
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The Aloris type are solid enough but the cutoff tool gangs over the side of the compound ways whereas the lantern type is centered over the compound slide ways.

.
 
I've parted them, bandsawed them, and hacksawed them without issue, but recently began using a cold saw. Works great!
 
mwezell said:
I've parted them, bandsawed them, and hacksawed them without issue, but recently began using a cold saw. Works great!
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I am sure the cold saw would work great, it's just too many $$$ for the home shop
 
Markhor said:
I am sure the cold saw would work great, it's just too many $$$ for the home shop
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Not at all. The ones I'm talking about are made just like a beefed up, lower rpm version of a wood miter/chop saw, etc. Mine uses a 14" metal cutting blade and the whole saw, new was around $400. It'll cut miters as well. Great for fab shops. It'll cut a typical br barrel in about 4-5 seconds but blade life is greatly affected by not abusing it. The cut off stub isn't even warm to the touch. It cuts so fast, the part never gets hot and the heat goes out in the chip. No sparks.
 
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mwezell said:
Not at all. The ones I'm talking about are made just like a beefed up, lower rpm version of a wood miter/chop saw, etc. Mine uses a 14" metal cutting blade and the whole saw, new was around $400. It'll cut miters as well. Great for fab shops. It'll cut a typical br barrel in about 4-5 seconds but blade life is greatly affected by not abusing it. The cut off stub isn't even warm to the touch. It cuts so fast, the part never gets hot and the heat goes out in the chip. No sparks.
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Thanks Mike, will look into it
 
mwezell said:
Not at all. The ones I'm talking about are made just like a beefed up, lower rpm version of a wood miter/chop saw, etc. Mine uses a 14" metal cutting blade and the whole saw, new was around $400. It'll cut miters as well. Great for fab shops. It'll cut a typical br barrel in about 4-5 seconds but blade life is greatly affected by not abusing it. The cut off stub isn't even warm to the touch. It cuts so fast, the part never gets hot and the heat goes out in the chip. No sparks.
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I too use a cold cut saw to cut my barrels. I use a Makita 12" cold cut saw https://www.makitatools.com/products/details/LC1230
I use it for cutting metal while fabbing up BBQ pits. It will last a long time if you are not hard on the blade and give it time to cut.
 
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