Tool making day. . .

N

NesikaChad

Guest
Anyone ever had one of those cast aluminum barrel spinner deals split right as your putting the final fluff on a tomato stake causing said tomato stake to fly off, bust your face, and then for a finale perform a schizophrenic dance on a concrete floor?

My answer to this problem:

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Necessity being the mother of invention I've ordered some material to whittle out a few more. They'll be black anodized, and the tubing is box steel thin wall that'll be parkerized.

- I can put a Hemi in it too but that costs extra.

$139.99 for the set up.

Cheers,

C
 
OK Chad, Enjoy your work and writing, BUT, what is IT.

Cheers:)
 
Will they fit the original aluminum bar and if so how much for the spinners only without the black anodize?

Stephen Hall
 
The engraving adds about $139.98 to the cost.:D

Hard anodize doesn't affect it much either since its a basket charge.

The material for the spinner end cap is billet 6061 T6. The real cost is in the bearings. I didn't go cheap.

The price will include ground shipping to anywhere in CONUS. I realize the cost may seem elevated. I validate it by being assured that no more expensive custom barrels ($3-$5 hundred) with brakes ($50-$130), and labor (another $175-$250) goes bouncing across a shop floor. Never mind the 16 weeks it takes to get one!

Cheap insurance?

Cheers and thanks.

Chad
 
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nice work chad

from the posts i believe alot of individuals dont know about barrel spinners for polishing the exterior of a barrel!!??

Food for thought, think of the engraving as a long term marketing plan. personaly i would add your home town on it. instead of the made in the usa as one could figure that one out. however 5 years from now a newcomer to smithing will ask a friend where did you get them spinners and they will locate you on a search engine with corp name and locale.

i read in one of the brownells gunsmith kinks books a smith made wooden cars with his name and addy on. while junior played with the car it is advertizing to everyone that sees it and junior is your salesman.

polish those stainless pipes to a mirror finish and pray the glint hits the competition in the objective lens huh. Just Joking ;)

keep up the good work
Fred
 
Chad...great looking product...but just for the reason you developed them..I do all barrel finishing on the lathe with a crown saver at the tailstock...I am too faint hearted to use a barrel spinner now...by the way any photos of your face after taking a hit from the barrel...:D
 
Chad, your workmanship is always awesome; this product is no exception. With me, there is only one problem. I don't know how it is used.

I polish barrels in the lathe and like the finish that results from using Scotchbrite. I don't know what a barrel spinner is. Any chance of posting a photo of these things in use?

TIA

Later,

Gene Beggs
 
I have been using a barrel spinner for almost 40 years... a lot cruder than yours though...
 
Gene Beggs said:
I polish barrels in the lathe and like the finish that results from using Scotchbrite. I don't know what a barrel spinner is. Any chance of posting a photo of these things in use?

TIA

Later,

Gene Beggs
Click to expand...

Gene,

Here is a photo of one use for a barrel spinner, but not a good example of proper technique. I was smoothing out the transition area on a barrel that I had re-contoured without a taper attachment.

Normally the barrel is held at more of a diagonal angle when polishing.

Jim

MontgomeryCCmachineriflecourse006co.jpg
 
Good post, and Chad YOU ARE THE MAN!!

Nice stuff eh, could you post your ordering info here? Those are worth every penny of what you're asking.

al
 
www.longriflesinc.com

Just go to contact and shoot an email.


Cheers and thanks.


BTW. Here's a shot of my barrel vise collets. Still making the vise. Should wrap that up today hopefully.

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More hand friction before the speed gets up too high and before the barrel gets too hot is recommended...

I guess you could advertise these in classifieds?
 
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Correct me if I am wrong. By working with the angle of the barrel to the belt (one end high, the other low) the spin rate of the barrel relative to the belt can be controlled, and by then swapping ends the pattern can be made to cross. By starting with a coarse belt and using small steps in abrasive coarseness, turning marks can be rapidly removed and a polished finish can be produced with surprising speed, and your lathe won't get grit on its ways.
 
Chad

A question on your barrel vise collets are you going to slot the sides?

Very nice work as always.

Please post pics of your vise when finished.

Hal
 
Boyd Allen said:
Correct me if I am wrong. By working with the angle of the barrel to the belt (one end high, the other low) the spin rate of the barrel relative to the belt can be controlled, and by then swapping ends the pattern can be made to cross. By starting with a coarse belt and using small steps in abrasive coarseness, turning marks can be rapidly removed and a polished finish can be produced with surprising speed, and your lathe won't get grit on its ways.
Click to expand...

You have it right Boyd... as much angle as you can do and squeeze the barrel to keep the speed down.... you can finish at right angles and light pressure and a fine belt...
 
Those are BIG NuTz!

Just a couple more widgits. . .:D



have a great weekend all.

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