Tail stock dro

F

f21sh

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Hey All
has anyone checked out the tailstock digital readout on page 592 in the new Grizzly catolog. Appears interesting.:D
Anyone have homemade versions? Pics?:p
tailstockdrodet1.jpg
 
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I used a homade version years ago made from a cheap pair of digital calipers. I drilled a hole in each jaw and mounted a pin on the tailstock and a collar with a pin on the quill. When you didn't need it, you could take it off and still use as a regular caliper.
 
looks good but I question how long it will last in a busy shop enviroment. Kinda redundunt also. I noticed the hand wheel is graduated. While I don't totally trust the hand wheel, I never seen one that I couldn't use to cut the final pass on a chamber.

Dave
 
I don't care what anybody says, the guy is a F***ing genius. I go through each new Grizzley catalog page by page and wonder at all the new gadgets and machines, and you know who thought up most of them,... and got them to market. Brownell's business was built on ideas from gunsmiths. Now if you send them an idea you don't even get a response.
 
That looks pretty good.

After I got the ram adaptor made so I could use a 1" dial indicator on my tailstock I discovered the graduations are off a bit. It goes the right distance in a whole revolution, but it can be +/- several thou inbetween during one turn.

Fitch
 
Digital is nice, but when you are cranking dials and looking to stop on a predetermined number most people will find analog easier to follow.
 
Grizzly Digital Tailstock..

They sure dont have much faith in their hand wheel do they?

I made a copy of Steve Ackers adapter and a dial indicator. Take it off and on when needed. But I have grown to use my hand wheel. For chambering I use redundency and use a Lambeth/Kiff Mircometer Adjustable Reamer Stop. There is nothing than undercutting a chamber.

Rustystud
 
Being a gaget guy, my first thought was "How Cool".

Then reality set in. What would be the purpose that I would use it for the most. Cutting chambers to the correct depth and setting headspace.

My current method is analog (Indicator dial on the tail stock quill).

The digital method may be more precise but it will not stop you from cutting a chamber too deep. It will just tell you how "Too deep" you went!

The really elegant solution is one of Butch's micrometer reamer stops. Just got one a few weeks ago and already love this device. Butch you are to be congratulated. That micro-stop makes reaming a chamber to a precise depth a no brainer.

Something else, the batteries in the micro-stop never go dead!

RGDS

Bob
 
I would like to take credit on the reamer stop, but that is Rusty Stud's tool. My tailstock came with no markings. I modified mine to take the dial from a Bridgeport Knee. I have no trouble holding headspace tolerance without all that stuff on the top of the quill.
Butch
 
I'm kinda old fashioned and like my dial indicator. I like to see things coming. Can't tell you how many times I over shoot a number on my mill. Now for the real scary part, I'll be getting a CNC lathe in near future. Ear plugs, face shield and flak jacket will be the uniform of the day. Oh forgot need one of those life alert things you wear around your neck to call 911 in case I can't get up.

Dave
 
CNC lathe now I'm drooling. On a CNC you can plug in a number and let the computer do the stopping. Much more more reliable than the nut behind feed wheel LOL.
 
CNC Chambers.

I attempted chambering in school with a CNC lathe and a CNC ID grinder. I also made some carbon electrodes and tried plung EDM chambering. I still like reaming chambers with reamers better. If you want a mass produced chamber then buy a prefit barrel or a factory rifle. I don't think this needs further expalining. Dave Tooley you were taught by a master, Ken Ryan Your reputation is very good in the gun community. You have kept an open mind on your practices and have adapted to the real world of gunsmithing. I hope you practice with CNC chambering on your own projects and not customers work until you get it mastered then I want you to share what you learned with me.

Nat Lambeth
 
Dave Tooley said:
David

Your assuming
1. it's the correct number
2. I know + from -

Dave
Click to expand...

Dave,

That's funny! My dad was in on the ground floor of CNC/NC machining way back when. To this day, he still calls them all "tape" machines. He said testing your just programmed machine and watching it rocket the tool toward the rapidly spinning chuck would flat out pucker your butt! Just hope your math was right!

Justin
 
You are on the right track.

Dave Tooley said:
I'm kinda old fashioned and like my dial indicator. I like to see things coming. Can't tell you how many times I over shoot a number on my mill. Now for the real scary part, I'll be getting a CNC lathe in near future. Ear plugs, face shield and flak jacket will be the uniform of the day. Oh forgot need one of those life alert things you wear around your neck to call 911 in case I can't get up.

Dave
Click to expand...

I have an old CNC mill that I had working in my shop in CA. I haven't gotten it working since I moved from CA to PA. You aren't exaggerating much. I discovered a lot of things in the process of learning to program it, debug the programs, and then set the machine up so it would do what I intended to do instead of what I told it to do. :eek:

The mill has a variable speed pulley drive on it in addition to which I have a variable frequency 3PH drive on it.

I was using the electronics to set the speed with out changing the variable pulley drive on the lathe so the motor could be running at near it's designed rpm. One day I wanted to slow the cutter down so I just dialed the speed down with the VF drive. Bad idea. Mistake.

The cutter was running the right rpm ... unloaded ... but the motor didn't have the hp to make the cut at that rpm so it bogged, the feed kept going, and it broke a 1/2" hogging mill right off. The piece that went flying missed me but the lesson was certainly clear.

I made it to the emergency stop switch just in time several times when I'd inadvertantly put a clamp or some other piece of apparatus in the tools path. The tools can't see, wake up really hungry, and eat anything - wood, steel, aluminum, brass, meat ...

I've never worked with a CNC lathe but it seems to me that a CNC lathe might have the potential for more violence since it has larger pieces and parts in motion which equals more stored energy ...

That said, if I could afford one, I'd not let any of the above stop me.

Fitch
 
Nat,
Dave can experiment on my stuff!
Big Al, I am so spoiled to my Trav A Dial on my lathe that I just got sick when I sent it in for repair. A dial indicator won't touch one.
Butch
 
Nat

I'll be happy to share all my trials and tribulations with you. I've seen this done by a company I have a lot of respect for and they made it look pretty easy. What I like is I'll options. The barrels will be set up exactly as I do know. That's the key to the whole thing anyway. I've designed and built a prototype reamer holder that will push( get that Jerry) the reamer just as I do it now but I'll still have the option to do it the old fashion way with the tailstock. Which I'll do on one off's. Turning and threading might as well be done with CNC lathe. It can thread at 700 RPM's and I'll get a better finish, not that that makes one shoot but it sure looks nice.


Butch

I'll be happy to practice on your stuff. I have no doubt this will work. I've seen it done. Just have to adapt my methods to the process. I just never could justify the cost until now. That and get used to the idea that I had to become detached from my work. I've always been a get your hands dirty touchy feely kind of guy. Hell I've have a lap top now and take it with on hunting trips to check email. Somebody shoot me please.

Dave
 
Dave,
I know that you will love it and know how to use it to your advantage without compromising your quality. If I weren't just basically a home shop and 10 years younger, I would definitely have a couple.
Butch
 
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