Neck turn lube
- Thread starter Tod Soeby
- Start date
J
Jay Idaho
Guest
Kroil may work but it is advertised and sold as a penetrating oil, not a cutting oil.
Some folks use a mixture of Mobil 1 and STP but I'm not sure if it is 1:1 ratio.
Neck turning lube is like cleaning solvents, a lot of people use different products and are pleased with the results.
Some folks use a mixture of Mobil 1 and STP but I'm not sure if it is 1:1 ratio.
Neck turning lube is like cleaning solvents, a lot of people use different products and are pleased with the results.
G
Gerry
Guest
neck turn lube
I tried many kinds right now im using wipe out case lube a little dab will keep the mandrel slick. If you want to use a cutting oil Rigid brand pipe threading oil works great on the cutter. Usually i cut dry. with just the case lube on the mandrel and a tooth brush to brush the chips off the cutter.
I tried many kinds right now im using wipe out case lube a little dab will keep the mandrel slick. If you want to use a cutting oil Rigid brand pipe threading oil works great on the cutter. Usually i cut dry. with just the case lube on the mandrel and a tooth brush to brush the chips off the cutter.
D
dasher john
Guest
Tod-
I have been using Shooters Choice FP10 followed by a 2 stage rinse in acetone. This was recommended by one of the sales reps/shooters at Sinclair and has worked very well for me. (I also use a .20 cal. bore mop to lightly lube the inside of a 6mm neck).
This is certainly not the most economical way to go but unless you're turning three or four hundred cases the cost is still relatively small.
John
http://www.shooters-choice.com/fp10.html
I have been using Shooters Choice FP10 followed by a 2 stage rinse in acetone. This was recommended by one of the sales reps/shooters at Sinclair and has worked very well for me. (I also use a .20 cal. bore mop to lightly lube the inside of a 6mm neck).
This is certainly not the most economical way to go but unless you're turning three or four hundred cases the cost is still relatively small.
John
http://www.shooters-choice.com/fp10.html
Stephen Perry
New member
Imperial
Tod
Imperial Sizing Die wax does a good job.
Stephen Perry
Angeles BR
Tod
Imperial Sizing Die wax does a good job.
Stephen Perry
Angeles BR
C
captbill
Guest
Imperial
I second the Imperial. Just a light scmear inside and out.
I second the Imperial. Just a light scmear inside and out.
F
f d shuster
Guest
lube
Another thumbs up for Imperial Die Sizing Wax. Never saw any need for anything else.
Another thumbs up for Imperial Die Sizing Wax. Never saw any need for anything else.
Ultra Slick
The best neck turning lube I have found for necks where I have a tight fitting mandrel and there is a chance I will gall the inside of the neck is : Ultra Slick made by Permatex. I bought a 4oz container from Advance Auto and I expect it will last a lifetime. It is an engine assembly lube and is purple in color and rather thick. I wipe it back off the inside of the necks with Q-tips dipped in brake cleaner. Good luck.
Rodney
The best neck turning lube I have found for necks where I have a tight fitting mandrel and there is a chance I will gall the inside of the neck is : Ultra Slick made by Permatex. I bought a 4oz container from Advance Auto and I expect it will last a lifetime. It is an engine assembly lube and is purple in color and rather thick. I wipe it back off the inside of the necks with Q-tips dipped in brake cleaner. Good luck.
Rodney
Do you just coat the mandral, or do you also coat the outside of the neck ?
F
f d shuster
Guest
neck lube
Tod: When starting out with everything clean, will apply a very light coating to the mandrel, then after a few cuts, when cleaning away the chips and other debris, will wipe off the old and re-apply a fresh very light coat. Each individual case mouth gets a very light "swipe" with the finger tip, and use cotton q-tips to easily wipe it out when done. Used to use CLP Breakfree, same method, and that also worked fine. A lot of good choices out there. note: I never coat the outside of the case neck/ inside only. Seems like putting lube on the outside would attract and hold the chips. I want them to fall off and "get out of the way".
Tod: When starting out with everything clean, will apply a very light coating to the mandrel, then after a few cuts, when cleaning away the chips and other debris, will wipe off the old and re-apply a fresh very light coat. Each individual case mouth gets a very light "swipe" with the finger tip, and use cotton q-tips to easily wipe it out when done. Used to use CLP Breakfree, same method, and that also worked fine. A lot of good choices out there. note: I never coat the outside of the case neck/ inside only. Seems like putting lube on the outside would attract and hold the chips. I want them to fall off and "get out of the way".
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Maybe I have been doing it wrong all of these years. I baisicly dip the case in the oil up to the neck-sholder, let it drip one drip, and slide the case onto the mandrel and start to turn. Lots-o-goop to clean up after, but my cutters have lasted 15 years.
Should I try to turn with the outside of the neck dry...just lube the mandral/inside of the case neck.
This is a hell of a time to learn how to turn necks correctly!!!
BETTER LATE THAN NEVER!!
Thanks,
Tod
Should I try to turn with the outside of the neck dry...just lube the mandral/inside of the case neck.
This is a hell of a time to learn how to turn necks correctly!!!
BETTER LATE THAN NEVER!!
Thanks,
Tod
F
Fireball Fred
Guest
imperial
i dont do big batches of brass. mostly 50 pcs at a time. i find the imperial does fine when turning by hand. however when using my drill chucked up to the brass holder i need to clean the mandrel with shooters choice before turning to keep the galling cleared off.
one thing to note though. when i use the drill i turn my brass close to dimension. let set to normalize and clean off the mandrel. after 24 hrs i turn off the last .001 or .002 i need to get spot on.
Fred
i dont do big batches of brass. mostly 50 pcs at a time. i find the imperial does fine when turning by hand. however when using my drill chucked up to the brass holder i need to clean the mandrel with shooters choice before turning to keep the galling cleared off.
one thing to note though. when i use the drill i turn my brass close to dimension. let set to normalize and clean off the mandrel. after 24 hrs i turn off the last .001 or .002 i need to get spot on.
Fred
Russ Hardy
New member
another vote for RCBS case lube. Same experience as Mr Mock. You have to really do a good job of cleaning out the necks when your done.
Hey Russ....good to here from you. So, in a nushell.....A lite coat of RCBS case lube on the mandrel.....a touch on the inside of the case neck....and leave the outside of the case neck dry.
Sound about right????
Sure would be a lot cleaner than my old method!!!!
Thanks, and don't be a stranger.
Tod
Jay Cutright
New member
Ice water
Thats right,ice water.
I have seen this subject come up on forums several times & cant keep this secret anymore.
I first heard of this back in 2005 while shooting at Hawks Ridge & I dont think they will mind if I pass this information along to you here today.
Get a bowl or a small cooler & fill it with ice & water. Put your K&M neck turning tool with the carbide mandral in the ice water.
Now while your turning tool is getting cold,expand your necks with the expander that K&M makes for the case/caliber that you will be turning.
Do not substitute this mandral for other brands as they are made for each other.
The idea of the ice is to reduce the heat induced by friction on the mandral & cutter while turning.
The water serves as the only lubricant you will need if you use carbide mandrals.
Pull the turning tool out of the water & turn your case.
Put the turning tool back in the ice water while changing cases so the mandral can cool off as it was when you started turning the previous case.Then turn the next case in the same manner.
This will make very consistant necks without galling your brass & clean up is as easy as letting your cases dry over night.
For the most consistant necks I turn to .001" of what I need on the first pass then go back & finish them on the 2nd pass in lots of 50 pieces using the same method, this will produce a case neck consistant to .0001".
Everyone I know who has tried this method is still using it today, it works.
Thats right,ice water.
I have seen this subject come up on forums several times & cant keep this secret anymore.
I first heard of this back in 2005 while shooting at Hawks Ridge & I dont think they will mind if I pass this information along to you here today.
Get a bowl or a small cooler & fill it with ice & water. Put your K&M neck turning tool with the carbide mandral in the ice water.
Now while your turning tool is getting cold,expand your necks with the expander that K&M makes for the case/caliber that you will be turning.
Do not substitute this mandral for other brands as they are made for each other.
The idea of the ice is to reduce the heat induced by friction on the mandral & cutter while turning.
The water serves as the only lubricant you will need if you use carbide mandrals.
Pull the turning tool out of the water & turn your case.
Put the turning tool back in the ice water while changing cases so the mandral can cool off as it was when you started turning the previous case.Then turn the next case in the same manner.
This will make very consistant necks without galling your brass & clean up is as easy as letting your cases dry over night.
For the most consistant necks I turn to .001" of what I need on the first pass then go back & finish them on the 2nd pass in lots of 50 pieces using the same method, this will produce a case neck consistant to .0001".
Everyone I know who has tried this method is still using it today, it works.
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David Wheeler
New member
What Jay said...
Have been lurking in the shadows here most every time I get on the web, figured it is time to post!
I did 50 more cases with the ice water deal last week. However, I use a dab of case lube on the inside of the necks. Works great! Bob Crone enlightened me to this method some time ago. Try it, you will like it... Works for me!
Have been lurking in the shadows here most every time I get on the web, figured it is time to post!
I did 50 more cases with the ice water deal last week. However, I use a dab of case lube on the inside of the necks. Works great! Bob Crone enlightened me to this method some time ago. Try it, you will like it... Works for me!
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Todd: If you need some Imperial I just bought four cans, just in case someone needed some. What I have been using on the Lathe and mill is Mistic Metal Mover, hard to find normally, but T&K Tool Company, in Binford, ND has it. This is the slickest stuff I've ever found, very light as compared to any other cutting fluids. And yes, if things get warm, use the ice water.
P.S. I have 50 of your fire formed Dasher brass down here. I'll send it to you shortly.
P.S. I have 50 of your fire formed Dasher brass down here. I'll send it to you shortly.
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