Neck expanding lubricant

adamsgt

adamsgt

Jerry Adams
The first time I expanded .220 russian brass I used straight STP as a lubricant. It worked well but was fairly messy and somewhat difficult to remove. Just got Tony Boyers book and he mentioned a combination of STP and Mobil One oil as a lube. Any suggestions on the proportions to use? :confused:
 
Red Rooster makes a case lube for forming wildcat cases. Works OK cleans up easy to.
 
adamsgt said:
The first time I expanded .220 russian brass I used straight STP as a lubricant. It worked well but was fairly messy and somewhat difficult to remove. Just got Tony Boyers book and he mentioned a combination of STP and Mobil One oil as a lube. Any suggestions on the proportions to use? :confused:
Click to expand...

1 qt of Mobil One and one can of STP. I mixed mine up 15 years ago and still have 2/3 of it. Works very well. Yes it is "messy" but it is SLICK, no galling on a polished mandrel, and lacquer thinner cleans it off.

There are a lot of lubes out there. Thing is you need to settle on one and use it exclusively so you technique is consistent. And BTW, even carbide mandrels will gall if not lubed
 
I hate cleaning necks out as well. I just fireform with the lube , since they need in most cases, two firings to be dependable. By then
the lube is gone
 
Anhydros Lanolin .. a Q-tip applied light coating and fire form it out. Will not cause ignition issues. can get a life time supply in a small container from most any Drug store. I have had 2 oz. of it for the past 4 years. Doesnt even look like Ive even used any by looking at the container. I started using it to expand 270 brass to a 338 - 06 in one step .. no problem going that far in one step. cheap and it works. might want to only get 1 oz. if you can, or plan on willing the rest to your shooting buddy years from now.

Andy B.
 
SGJennings said:
50-50% or some other proportion?
Click to expand...

Different people use somewhat different amounts for bullet making. 4 parts lanolin to 1 part castor oil is pretty standard. The castor oil makes the lanolin somewhat more fluid. You could probably do just as well necking up cases with just straight lanolin--Mike
 
Well I've spent the last hour on the phone looking for anhydrous lanolin.... I've got a list here of 16 different pharmacies and two medical supply houses.

I finally hit paydirt at Walmart, the dude happened to have a 1lb container behind the counter. It's ointment not paste but I'll just have to live with that I guess, meantime a pound should last me several years.

lol

al
 
Thanks to a suggestion (& supply) from R.G. Robinett, I also used "bullet maker's lanolin" for a lube on my old rail gun (delrin & steel).

With carbide mandrils, Joel Pendergraft used Flitz as a lubricant. Left the necks pretty, but I worried that it would dull the knife of the turning tool. Apparently, it never did. It doesn't wash out with water though, nor does lanolin. I'll spend my $$$ up front & use a carbide mandril any day. Also doesn't heat up the way steel mandrils do, or pick up brass, or or or (bunch of bad things).
 
alinwa said:
Well I've spent the last hour on the phone looking for anhydrous lanolin.... I've got a list here of 16 different pharmacies and two medical supply houses.

I finally hit paydirt at Walmart, the dude happened to have a 1lb container behind the counter. It's ointment not paste but I'll just have to live with that I guess, meantime a pound should last me several years.

lol

al
Click to expand...

turns out it is a paste, stiffer than Imperial or Davey Dohrrrmannns stuff. I'ma' hafta' cut it

al
 
Al, true anhydrous lanolin should be a thick, stringy composition. I mix it with 100% pure neats foot oil for my bullet making. It's a great lubricant.

1-9.jpg
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top